Might do Roller Rockers while doing Injectors. Hard to do?

black143

Founding Member
Aug 28, 2001
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Renton, WA
I'm going to be replacing my fuel injectors and Fuel Pressure Regulator this weekend. I've heard from numerous sources that while my intake is off, that I should go ahead and replace my Roller Rockers. I do have quite a bit of ValveTrain noise that is probably from a loose roller rocker so this sounded like a good idea. Unfortunately, I'm a beginning mechanic who's never touched messed with an Intake Manifold before, let alone heads. Would this be suicide to replace my RR's? I was thinking about going with the Crane Energizer 1.7's. Keep in mind, this is my only car so I cant have it down for any long period of time. Thanks guys.
 
Its not even that difficult if you get ped mount rockers.
Pedestal mount rockers are just bolt down. Bring the motor to TDC and follow the sequence. Some may need a shim but its simple. Turn the motor over 180* and do the rest...Its really easy.
Stud mounts are more tricky....
 
1Stang2Go said:
Its not even that difficult if you get ped mount rockers.
Pedestal mount rockers are just bolt down. Bring the motor to TDC and follow the sequence. Some may need a shim but its simple. Turn the motor over 180* and do the rest...Its really easy.
Stud mounts are more tricky....

I was told that Stud Mount (which I think my 88GT has) were easier because you dont need shims. What makes Stud Mounts harder?
 
Mine are Pedistal mount and they werent too hard at all, just took about a day working at an easy pace. This was my first time with the valve covers off also. Just follow the instuctions that come with them. I have the Ford Motorsport 1.7's which are made by crane....heres what they look like

461740_11_full.jpg
 
Ok....I looked in a few books and Im almost positive that stock are pedistal mount, b/c it says the head has to be machined to put on stud mount. But depending on whether your car was made before or after August of 88' you might have the cam that is good for 3hp over cars made after aug 88' :)
 
If you have heads your rockers are Pedistal mount. I dont understand this adjusting valve train with pedistal style rockers. I have done mine 2 times once during head swap and once during the cam swap and i never did any of this **** i just bolted them down the car run great i just dont understand. I go to school for auto tech and i asked my teacher today he said that its non adjustable ( in my 94 GT ). Maybe we are both wrong but my experiances tell me other wise.
 
stangin it said:
If you have heads your rockers are Pedistal mount. I dont understand this adjusting valve train with pedistal style rockers. I have done mine 2 times once during head swap and once during the cam swap and i never did any of this **** i just bolted them down the car run great i just dont understand. I go to school for auto tech and i asked my teacher today he said that its non adjustable ( in my 94 GT ). Maybe we are both wrong but my experiances tell me other wise.

Im like you, I didnt use a single shim. If anything I needed longer pushrods or needed to grind down the pedistal. But I didnt do either, just put all of them on using the 1/2 a turn to 3/4 past zero lash and they worked fine and ive had them on for 2 years with no problems. They do chatter a little but the leaks from the headers were 10 times greater than whatever noise the rockers make.

Ok I'll give a run down of the 3 types of Roller Rockers:


Pedistal-Mount:offer the convience and affordability of bolting to stock and stock-style cylinder heads, but they offer little adjustability. The only way to compensatefor changes in valvetrain geometry is to install or remove shims beneath the pedistal mount. These rockers are an easy, cost effective way to add roller rocker arms to a street/strip 5.0.

Stud-mount:To install a stud mount roller rocker on a 5.0 cylinder head, the head must be designed or machined to accept it. Stud mount rockers offer increased strength, as the studs are usually longer than the bolts used to fasten down pedistal mount rockers. Beyond added strength, stud mount rockers are advantagous because they allow adjustments to compensate for changes in the valve train geometry. Stud mount rockers do mandate the use of guideplates and hardened pushrods for proper alignment and durability.

Shaft-Mount: For ultimate rpm potential and durability. Rather than see-sawing on a fulcrum, shaft mount rockers, naturally, carry out their appointed duty swiveling on a solidly mounted shaft.

All info came from How to tune & Modify your 5.0 Liter Mustang
 
Did they chatter to begin from? or over time? So there is no exact torque spec? I know you're supposed to turn the push-rod and tighten the Rocker Arm until it doesnt spin anymore, then you're supposed to turn another 1/4-3/4 turn. I wish there was a torque spec I could use instead. My rockers are chattering really loud right now, thats one of the reasons why I want to replace them, not to mention the power gain.

Speaking of power gain, how much gain would you expect?