Misfires everywhere.

nisreo · Nov 25, 2007

Ok well since I did my heagaskets, I've had a pretty bad misfire problem. It skips at idle every 4-5 second and on medium-hard accel to the point its popping out of the exhaust. No problem on light accel.

Also, there is smoke coming out of the oil filler neck. It smells like gas, and it leaving a white creamy residue on the cap and inside the neck. Similar to what oil looks like after a blown headgasket.

Both coolant and oil are clean.

Im leaning toward the fact that I need new o2 sensors because I think they got ruined when I blew the headgasket. I know it plugged up one of the cats so im sure it killed the o2 sensors, but im not sure. I put all new gaskets, and seals (including valve guide seals) when I did the top end.

Any ideas?

The car is stock except for a flowmaster cattless H and mufflers, FRPP 8mm wires and a removed air pump.

thanks
-Brian

Killer50stang · Nov 25, 2007

nisreo said:
Ok well since I did my heagaskets, I've had a pretty bad misfire problem. It skips at idle every 4-5 second and on medium-hard accel to the point its popping out of the exhaust. No problem on light accel.

Also, there is smoke coming out of the oil filler neck. It smells like gas, and it leaving a white creamy residue on the cap and inside the neck. Similar to what oil looks like after a blown headgasket.

Both coolant and oil are clean.

I'm leaning toward the fact that I need new o2 sensors because I think they got ruined when I blew the headgasket. I know it plugged up one of the cats so im sure it killed the o2 sensors, but im not sure. I put all new gaskets, and seals (including valve guide seals) when I did the top end.

Any ideas?

The car is stock except for a flowmaster cattless H and mufflers, FRPP 8mm wires and a removed air pump.

thanks
-Brian

Check your timing and firing order. I have some good documentation here:

ftp://jpoth@members.kosinet.com/members/jpoth/comp107/Set Timing.doc

Did you replace the plugs too? Get some autolites if you didn't. What kind of gaskets did you use? Felpro? Did you go by the torque specs?

Jason

Killer50stang · Nov 25, 2007

Killer50stang said:
Check your timing and firing order. I have some good documentation here:

ftp://jpoth@members.kosinet.com/members/jpoth/comp107/Set Timing.doc

Did you replace the plugs too? Get some autolites if you didn't. What kind of gaskets did you use? Felpro? Did you go by the torque specs?

Jason

nisreo · Nov 25, 2007

Ive checked timing a few times since its been misfring and its ok, butmaybe ill bump it back a couple degrees for the hell of it and see what happens. I put all new Felpro gaskets, autolite plugs and tourqed everything perfectly.

nisreo · Nov 25, 2007

I need a password to view that document.

nisreo · Nov 25, 2007

any more ideas?

nisreo · Nov 25, 2007

nisreo said:
Ok well since I did my heagaskets, I've had a pretty bad misfire problem. It skips at idle every 4-5 second and on medium-hard accel to the point its popping out of the exhaust. No problem on light accel.

Also, there is smoke coming out of the oil filler neck. It smells like gas, and it leaving a white creamy residue on the cap and inside the neck. Similar to what oil looks like after a blown headgasket.

Both coolant and oil are clean.

Im leaning toward the fact that I need new o2 sensors because I think they got ruined when I blew the headgasket. I know it plugged up one of the cats so im sure it killed the o2 sensors. I put all new gaskets, and seals (including valve guide seals) when I did the top end.

Any ideas?

The car is stock except for a flowmaster cattless H and mufflers, FRPP 8mm wires and a removed air pump.

thanks
-Brian

jrichker · Nov 25, 2007

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/

If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-7208-90-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.

nisreo · Nov 25, 2007

great thanks, ill try that out.

Killer50stang · Nov 30, 2007

Sorry apparantly that link doesn't work anymore, so I'll have to dig it up if you need it, let me know. How old are plugs, wires, cap, rotor?

Jason

jrichker · Nov 30, 2007

Paint the mark on the harmonic balancer with paint -choose 10* or 14* or something else if You have NO2 or other power adder.

Remove the SPOUT connector (do a search if you want a picture of the SPOUT connector) It is the 2 pin rectangular plug on the distributor wiring harness. Only the EFI Mustang engines have a SPOUT. If yours is not EFI, check for a SPOUT: if you don’t find one, skip any instructions regarding the SPOUT
Warning: there are only two places the spout should be when you time the engine. The first place is in your pocket while you are setting the timing and the second is back in the harness when you finish. The little bugger is too easy to lose and too hard to find a replacement.

Connect timing light up to battery & #1 spark plug.

Start engine, loosen distributor hold down with a 1/2" universal socket. Shine the timing light on the marks and turn the distributor until the mark lines up with the edge of the timing pointer. Tighten down the distributor hold down bolt, Replace the SPOUT connector and you are done.

The HO firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.
Non HO firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8

Misfires everywhere.

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