MLX50's official PITA work in prgress thread.

MustangLX-5.0

Founding Member
Dec 2, 2000
856
7
38
Lehigh Acres Fla.
It's official :D . No, it's not some high tech engine rebuild or off the chart mods. It's just me getting my arse back to work on my 92 LX 5.0. This is just an ongoing update of what work I have been doing and how far along I have come. I will keep any questions regarding any of yhe work, in this thread, that way everyone knows where to look. This may not seem like a big deal to a lot of you modders out there, but to me, it is. I have come a long way from where I started.

So here's whats going on. I'm sure many of you remember be relentlessly complaining and getting into fits with that friggin Eibach suspension kit the past couple of years. The car has sat for too long. I now have figured out and FIXED this stupid issue. The problem I had - The sway bar end links always seemed way too short and i could not get them attached to both the sway bar and the control arm at the same time (even the extra long stock links). I tried so many options.. I even called Eibach, then sent the tech a couple emails with pics. I did not get any response after that. Fed up, I tried something different... damn I wish I had thought of this a long time ago. Looking over a set of sway bar mounts from my 96 3.8, I noticed they were at least an inch longer and dropped the bar down lower. So I bought some SN95 sway bar mounts and installed them on my 92. Guess, yep, it fixed it. I grinded down the stock links so I could fit a couple stopper washers , then got all the bushings in place. With a little adjustment, the bar sits nicely in place. I can't tell you how relieved I am to have fixed this. I can also tell you that after getting this finished, if I would have tried lowering the bar fully with the stock mounts, it would have ripped the mounts out and bent the end links. Eibach definately did NOT do something right. This bar would have fit like a glove with no modifications on my 96. They should have insluded a set of SN95 mounts with the kit.. shame on them for wasting my time.

The brakes. Yah, more hassle. I bought all new copper washers for the front lines. Took my dremel with wire brush attachment and cleaned the crap out of the brake line fittings and caliper bolt hole. Its amazing how much rust finds it's way in there, even though it was sealed off. Wasn't able to clear all rust, but all heavy stuff is out of they way. Installed lines, torqued them down real good. Finally bolted master cylinder back in place. Had to screw with the BB adjustment rod a few times. I think I got it right, though I think I may have just a little more play in the pedal than I wish, but I'm not about to tear that back off again and have to re-do the bleeding process. Took care of the back brake lines. Don't know what the hell I was thinking about washers on the back lines, cause there aren't any. It's just a line with a flange on the end and a threaded compression fitting. One of them had been leaking... relentlessly.. This was the one that kept twisting the line while I tightened the fitting, trying to seal it. Took the line off, there was no corrosion or bent or scraped flange. Threads were just fine. To try and remedy this leak, I unbolted the line hold down clips that are attached to the axle, I then twisted the line well into the other direction, bolted it up, so when I tightened it, I could add a few extra Ft/lbs and it would straighten out. So far, no leaking, same with the other side. Lets hope it stays that way when I start the engine later.

Question - What is that plug on the top of the passenger side axle housing? A brake line tie-down was bolted there. There is a hole in it.. what is that for?

Now I am currently in the middle of replacing all the back suspension. Yeah, can ya believe I never got around to that? That crap with the front suspension really bummed me out.. now I'm haulin ass :D . One thing that gets me, is why didn't Eibach include the axle damper shocks (? quads ?) . Those are the only thing I dont have new. And as I am learning, they have failed pretty badly. Anyway, the rear suspension is cake. Except if it werent for the heavy ass rear end. Unbolting the lower control arm from the axle, that thing was a friggin pain. I have the car on 2 jack stands, a floor jack under the diff, and a floor jack under the control arm. Trying to align that thing JUST RIGHT so I could pull the bolt out... damn. And I thought that was difficult, getting the bolt back in was way more difficult. The friggin axle moved backwards and I had to wrestle the thing forward to even get it to line up with the bolt hole. I'm sore as s*** today, I'll be finishing the rest later today.

Is there an easier way to align the lower control arm to the axle? That thing weighs a ton...

After this, going to finish my alt and rad install, then perhaps I will attempt that set of FRPP 3.73's I have sitting inside. As for the top, ugh.. its looking ugly. I am not looking forward to attempting a replacement. It also needs new paint BAD. the hood is ugly now, the trunk is almost as bad, and that panel between the trunk and rear molding is rusted up in the middle. I'm thinking, bro-in-laws brother does some very nice paint work in his own garage. If I can get him to paint a few items for me, ahh shhhesh.. that would be cool.

More later. Thanks for reading :p
 
you should have been doing this two weeks ago man, its absolutely beautiful in the burg right now. i bet you in lehigh acres where there is more room to roam roads and not so much traffic you would be having a blast with this weather.
 
I started some of this about a week ago. And the week before that, it flooded here with all the rain we got. Weather dont know when to stop. Kept threatening to rain afterwards. Thats why it took me so long.

And no, it's not like it was a few years ago. The roads are a horrid mess around here. Traffic, slow ass drivers, constuction everywhere (again).. lack of main roads.. HAH.. it sucks ass around here. There's not a lot of room to take it out... like I used to in 05.. lol
 
damn, yeah when the rain came 2 weeks ago it was bad. i had to go to sumter county to pick up my trans and ate rain from the end of the north howard franklin bridge to the begining of it heading back to saint petersburg. it honestly looked like we were fording a river in a small hyundai accent in sumter. sigh. sucks to hear that the roads suck where you are, they arent to great where i am either way too much traffic.
 
Started working again last night. Never got anything done. Spent 2 1/2 hours looking for a tool. Then when I never found it, I didn't feel like working on it. The tool was one of those special plastic clip removal tools I got from MAC tools. Ford calls them scrivets. I found a framing hammer today with that straight end on it. And wouldn't you know it, shortly after I started wrestling the D-side lower control arm bolt out, it starts raining. I'll get this done... .... .... someday.
 
Eibach... not again....

I got the rear springs and shocks done. Figured I'd be done with the rear sway bar in 15 minutes or so. Not so. What is Eibach thinking? The rear sway came with grease pack, 4 bolts and 4 nuts. You look at this picture and tell me whats wrong with it... Just how the heck am I supposed to put nuts on that? I am not even sure if this is the right parts. Its one of the eibach hardware packs that came with everything (3 years ago). I cant find anything else. I tried using the stock U clips that were attached to the stock bar, but they wont fit. The bar is a little thicker. Can someone help me out here? I am almost done and just want to get this crap out of the way.
 

Attachments

  • IMAG0143.webp
    IMAG0143.webp
    18.6 KB · Views: 328
Water leak

I have been getting water in my trunk. I thought it was either somehow getting in from the top leaking into the vinyl cover behind the back seat. Thought maybe it was dripping out. It wasn't , nor was the trunk weatherstrip bad. After removing the carpeted panels so I could get to the shocks, I discovered this mess. RUST... and a lot of it. All within a 2 - 3 square inch area just behind the pass side trunk piller. This must be where its getting in. I dont think the hinge mount is leaking... maybe from a drainage channel for the top. Its pretty bad. Rust chunks are breaking off . Anyone know how I can get this repaired? I'm getting a lot of water in my trunk now. It just started leaking this year.

This is the only bad rust spot on the car. There are a few surface rust spots from where the paint came offf and a couple specs underneath.. other than that.. this is it. Like to know where it came from.
 

Attachments

  • IMAG0144.webp
    IMAG0144.webp
    14.5 KB · Views: 301
Your sway bar should look more like this
3143190095_medium.jpg
I just used some grade 8 bolts from Lowes to put mine on, maybe take it out and see if you can bend the ends so you can get the nuts in there.

Dan
 
Man, I tried bending that. Impossible. It's solid steel on the ends. Both sides are like that. I wonder If they sent me the wrong rear swaybar. Too late to send it back cause I ordered it 3 years ago (long story, but never got around to the work as it sat ). Thinking of maybe selling this and getting a Steeda. I'll use the stock bar for now. There is no way I can use this with the ends like that.

I think Eibach screwed up and improperly labeled this bar for 79-04 .. when it probably only fits 94-04 properly... I'm going to check it on my 96.
 
Man, I tried bending that. Impossible. It's solid steel on the ends. Both sides are like that. I wonder If they sent me the wrong rear swaybar. Too late to send it back cause I ordered it 3 years ago (long story, but never got around to the work as it sat ). Thinking of maybe selling this and getting a Steeda. I'll use the stock bar for now. There is no way I can use this with the ends like that.

I think Eibach screwed up and improperly labeled this bar for 79-04 .. when it probably only fits 94-04 properly... I'm going to check it on my 96.

Dear Lord, I think we have the same car. Eibach products are good if they fit.
I had the sway front sway problem as you. As for the rear I went up to Ace and got 4 sets of grade 8, bolts, nuts and lock washers. Works perfectly. As for the leak, yes it is the rust. I have it on my drivers side. Hmmm, I doubt any of the auto parts stores in Lehigh have the bolts. I can't think of any hardward stores. The hardware store across walmart should have the grade stuff??
 
Yeah, the bar is bent on the pass side. It's like it was cast that way, and not like it was damaged. It's straight on the drivers side. I set the 2 bars on top of each other, lined them up to where the bolt holes would meet. Is this bar supposed to be crooked like that? Stock bar I could bend, this one, Nnnno. That thing is solid. I could try and take it someplace to have it straightened, but I dont think it would bend properly at the right point.

And btw, no nuts in the world would work, if I couldn't get them in there in the first place. It's too cramped on the pass side at the very end that a nut wouldn't even clear the gap in the LCA. Yikes.. I swear I got the eibach curse.. its one problem after another with their parts.

7up, where bouts you from around here? Must be pretty close to know the layout of Lehigh Acres lol. There are a couple hardware stores around. An ACE right in town.
 
Its supposed to be bent more on the pass side? How did you get it bolted up? Yeah, if you could post a couple pics, I would like to see how you bolted it.

To post images, just go advanced or click -Reply. Then below the text box, click on manage attachments. Theres 2 boxes for attaching images from your computer. Click on the button next to them to browse for files. Select it .. then do the same if you have another image.. then click upload. Then scroll down and click close window.. then submit the post. Hope that helps.
 
Heater core bypass

Heres a U-pipe I fabricated from soldering copper pipe fittings. As you can see, I dont solder copper real cleanly.. i'm workin on that though. On the one end is a 5/8 coupling. That is the end that is coated in solder. I'm using that for the larger hose end. Even though it's bigger than the half inch pipe, it still fits in pretty loosely..but better than the pipe. I coated it hopes it would add a little more thickness. I'm going to put blue rtv and clamp it down real tight. Should hold up no problem.

I couldn't find a fitting that would fit that hose tightly. It's like between 3/4 and 5/8. This works tho..
 

Attachments

  • IMAG0153.webp
    IMAG0153.webp
    18.9 KB · Views: 320
Up and running

Post up those pics Notch916 if you can. I really need to see your rear bar install.

I got everything done.. for now. All I need to do is install my headlights and park lamps, glue my rearview mirror back up, and re-install a few interior pieces. Still gotta fix the pass side mid pipe. Dumb thing has a hole in it and sounds like ****. Engine is running. Had to pull all sparkplugs and clean them off. It was only running on 3 cylinders as the plugs were mucked up with bad gas & gum. Added more gas but the fuel gauge refuses to move past the empty mark when the key is on. I think the floater is gummed up. Shouldnt take me long to drop the tank and clean it off. Gotta flush the radiator once more. Stuff from inside the block has made a mess in my new rad. Speakin of radiators, look at the pic below. I had to use zip ties to secure the upper portion of the fan shroud. The holes would not line up with the bolts for nothin. No big deal. It's not going anywhere. Theres about 1/4 inch of a gap between the bottom of the shroud and the blades also. Dont know why it's so close.

Brakes work no problem and no friggin leaks thank god.
 

Attachments

  • IMAG0156.webp
    IMAG0156.webp
    21.4 KB · Views: 217