MM Quadrant & Adjusters

#2
I run the MM quadrant and FWA, but I got an adjustable cable because I ran over the nice part that came with the kit while waiting to install it. I think it is a good part, no problems with the thing.
 
#4
Well I put in the quadrant and firewall adjuster tonight, and couldnt be happier with the results. I adjusted the clutch so it engages at right about the middle. Loosening the cable (turning the adjuster towards the firewall) lowers the engagement point, while tightening the cable (turning the adjuster outward of the firewall) raises the engagement point, correct? Just making sure I have that right. Also, do I need to worry about the adjuster moving itself anywhere without any compound on it? I had to grind down the plastic insert quite a bit to be able to put on the billet adjuster.

The clutch pedal feels really nice, but there is about 1.5-2 inches of play at the top of it that I could do without. I have an MM pedal height adjuster as well, but haven't gotten to it yet because it seems like a fairly involved installation. Would that get rid of the looseness at the top of the pedal when the engagement is in the middle?
 
#6
This is something I think many have a misconception about. Firewall adjusters are not meant to adjust at what point the clutch engages/disengages. This is a fallacy that manufacturers of adjusters/quadrants have perpetuated. A firewall adjuster simply takes the slack out of the cable as the clutch wears. When the quadrant/adjuster is first installed, you turn the screw counter clockwise to tighten the cable. The clutch pedal will have about 1" of play. As the clutch wears, the pedal play will increase (become sloppy) and you simply turn the adjuster to tighten.
This is the real purpose of the firewall adjuster.
 
#7
95BLBLVert said:
This is something I think many have a misconception about. Firewall adjusters are not meant to adjust at what point the clutch engages/disengages. This is a fallacy that manufacturers of adjusters/quadrants have perpetuated. A firewall adjuster simply takes the slack out of the cable as the clutch wears. When the quadrant/adjuster is first installed, you turn the screw counter clockwise to tighten the cable. The clutch pedal will have about 1" of play. As the clutch wears, the pedal play will increase (become sloppy) and you simply turn the adjuster to tighten.
This is the real purpose of the firewall adjuster.
Click to expand...


yes they are. Pulling the slack out of, or giving slack to the cable directly effects where the clutch engages and disengages. the reason you install an aftermarket quadrant/firewall adjuster is to be able to control and adjust exactly where you like your clutch to engage and disengage, pulling the slack out, or giving slack is the means to do this, and that is what the firewall adjuster provides.

Additionally, a firewall adjuster will not take the slack out of the cable as the clutch wears, unless of course you do it manually, this was originally the job of the plastic oem quadrant, but it, unfortunately was designed to allow disengagement and engagement of the clutch at only one position.

Many think that there is only "one" true way of adjusting the clutch (the two inch slack rule) and this is simply not true. When adjusting a clutch, it is important to not tighten the cable so much that you are constantly disengaging, and conversly, it is important to not loosen the cable so much that you are constantly engaging with your foot depressed. Once you know to stay within these confines, you've actually got several inches to play with on that adjustment to fine tune exactly what your preference is for your engagement and disengagement points.
 
#8
Yes you're right. But that is not why the adjuster was developed. It was developed to tighten the cable as the clutch wears. This is why Ford developed the self-adjusting plastic quadrant. The problem with loosening the adjuster (so that the clutch engages quickly) is that you are left with a sloppy pedal that will rattle (especially so during idle). The other problem is that air gap is decreased.
The TOB will not engage the pressure plate properly. This will lead to grinding of gears and missed shifts.
On the opposite of the spectrum, if you tighten the adjuster too much, you are actually actuating the fork/TOB prematurely which will cause transmission damage to various parts.
Ultimately, the adjuster should be tightened enough until there is about 1" of play at the pedal.
Now, if you use a quadrant with two or three hooks, you can set where you want the clutch to engage/disengage.
Using the hook closest to the firewall will result in a "high" engaging pedal. Using the hook closest to the driver will result in a mid to low engaging pedal (depending on the manufacturer).
 
#10
95BLBLVert said:
Yes you're right. But that is not why the adjuster was developed. It was developed to tighten the cable as the clutch wears. This is why Ford developed the self-adjusting plastic quadrant. The problem with loosening the adjuster (so that the clutch engages quickly) is that you are left with a sloppy pedal that will rattle (especially so during idle). The other problem is that air gap is decreased.
The TOB will not engage the pressure plate properly. This will lead to grinding of gears and missed shifts.
On the opposite of the spectrum, if you tighten the adjuster too much, you are actually actuating the fork/TOB prematurely which will cause transmission damage to various parts.
Ultimately, the adjuster should be tightened enough until there is about 1" of play at the pedal.
Now, if you use a quadrant with two or three hooks, you can set where you want the clutch to engage/disengage.
Using the hook closest to the firewall will result in a "high" engaging pedal. Using the hook closest to the driver will result in a mid to low engaging pedal (depending on the manufacturer).
Click to expand...


You know what's interesting, I've tried the extra hooks, and imo, they're just hype broadcast to overparanoid mustangers who think they need a kazillion hooks. The third hook was so tight that it rotated the clutch pedal way up, and in fact wound up burning out my bro's spec in 5000 miles (he didn't know how to adjust) the only way the third hook would work is maybe with a longer cable. in my experience, conversly, the first hook is too short, and can't be taken up with the pedal. Anyhow, good conversation.

to the other poster, it's all a matter of feel. You can tell when it's engaging, you lift your foot up off the floor and the car starts to go. If your car moves RIGHT off the floor, then you are not disengaged all the way=bad. Make sure that you have to lift up at least a little bit b4 your car goes forward, then you know you are disengaging all the way. Up top, if you push the pedal, it will get much stiffer at a certain point, this is the actual disengagement point.
 
#13
Daggar said:
So what's the deal with their universal cable? Would it be a good thing to get or should an OEM cable be used?
Click to expand...


MM's universal cable IS an OEM cable. It is longer than the Fox body cable so that it can be used with long tube headers. One difference is that it does not have the fenderwell mounting bracket attached to it.
 
#14
95BLBLVert said:
MM's universal cable IS an OEM cable. It is longer than the Fox body cable so that it can be used with long tube headers. One difference is that it does not have the fenderwell mounting bracket attached to it.
Click to expand...

Yeah, it is a Ford cable, from the newer Mustangs....and it works great!
 
#15
so no problems with having a little extra length in the cable? It also requires no further modification, is that correct? It sounds as if it's the way to go for a straight forward installation. Just wanted to bounce it off you guys.
 
#16
v8only said:
You know what's interesting, I've tried the extra hooks, and imo, they're just hype broadcast to overparanoid mustangers who think they need a kazillion hooks. The third hook was so tight that it rotated the clutch pedal way up, and in fact wound up burning out my bro's spec in 5000 miles (he didn't know how to adjust) the only way the third hook would work is maybe with a longer cable. in my experience, conversly, the first hook is too short, and can't be taken up with the pedal. Anyhow, good conversation.
Click to expand...

the 3rd hook is to get around steeda's patent, and is for show only

i'd suggest getting an OEM cable from ford, and getting a steeda firewall adjuster. no crawling under the car, and no worrying about the cable snapping
 
#17
sirr0bin said:
i'd suggest getting an OEM cable from ford
Click to expand...

Have you priced one lately??? :notnice:

Daggar said:
so no problems with having a little extra length in the cable? It also requires no further modification, is that correct?
Click to expand...

No problem at all. The overall length of the cable is longer - the exposed ends are the same length, so it fits fine. There is just more overall cable so it's easier to route it away from headers and such.

From the Maximum Motorsports web site:

New MM Universal Ford OEM Clutch Cable! We have done a lot of research on clutch cables, buying and testing almost every different cable on the market we could find. We have found after all this investigation, that the OEM Ford Clutch Cables are the best quality cables available. They have a multi-material, layered construction that provides better heat, friction and collapsibility protection than all the aftermarket cables we dissected. With that in mind, we have begun selling all year ranges of factory cables, for those customers that demand a cable that will last. We have developed a clutch adjustment package that will work with all OEM Ford cables. Our Quadrant, firewall package will allow the use of all OEM Ford cables (and adjustable cables, too), however the cables all require some minor modifications. We also sell a package with the MM Universal Ford OEM cable, which comes with all the parts you need to install a Ford quality cable with an aluminum quadrant and firewall adjuster, that requires no additional cable modifications. This universal cable will provide more header clearance, and therefore even better heat protection, than any other cable we have found, including the 5.0 liter engine OEM Ford cables!! This cable, quadrant and firewall adjuster can be the answer to all your clutch cable problems! We have also discontinued selling adjustable clutch cables due to the poor quality and repeated returns we have experienced. Based on our research and ongoing testing, OEM Ford cables are the only solution to clutch cable problems.

The photo below compares the construction of an aftermarket clutch cable (upper cable) and an OEM Ford cable (lower cable). Note that Ford utilizes a multi layer construction which helps prevent heat from affecting the sliding action of the inner cable or causing a compression failure of the outer housing, while still allowing the cable to be sufficiently flexible. While we have looked at the construction of many aftermarket cables, none have had a construction that can compare to the quality of the OEM Ford cables.

Cableanatomy1.jpg
:nice: :flag:
 
#18
I have a 93 GT.After I run the car for a while it does not shift very well.and some times with the clutch fully depressed the car will creep forward. How do you adjust the clutch cable besides pulling up on the pedal?. I also don't hear a click when I pull up on the pedal as I read in another thread. Thanks for any help you can give me . Ron
 
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