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Mob's project thread

  • Thread starter Thread starter mob
  • Start date Start date Apr 10, 2009
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mob

the guy who hits on his mom
20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 3, 2003
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104
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Apr 21, 2009
#21
  • Apr 21, 2009
  • #21
Whats the best way to pull out the harness? Pull it from the engine or interior? And when going carb what vacuum lines do you need to keep?

Here is a couple more pics, finally starting to feel like I am making some progress. The color paint I am going with is Dark highland green or the bullit green, I am not making a "Bullit" fox body but that is the color i am painting it, my buddy gets 40% off on paint so i am giving the money to him tomorrow and I hope he can get it by the end of the week.







Parts are starting to pile up
 

1991notchbackLX

Active Member
Dec 25, 2007
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48
New York
Apr 21, 2009
#22
  • Apr 21, 2009
  • #22
looking good man! highland green is one of my favorite colors... what kind of shape is your black center console in? is it oem black or painted? if all the mounting tabs are good and it's in good shape i'll take it off your hands. PM me
 

mob

the guy who hits on his mom
20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 3, 2003
2,566
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Apr 21, 2009
#23
  • Apr 21, 2009
  • #23
Thanks!

It's oem black but I am probably going to keep the console, I'll let you know if I change my mind though.
 

RsStanG1987

I shaved all my pubes playing this game.
10 Year Member
Mar 13, 2004
569
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79
Dupont PA
Apr 21, 2009
#24
  • Apr 21, 2009
  • #24
Your only going to need like 2 vacum lines if that. I have one for my booster 1 for my carb and 1 for my dizzy.
 

jrichker

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#25
  • Apr 21, 2009
  • #25
Pull the EFI harness from the passenger compartment. Be prepared to scrape some knuckles. It is like wrestling a big python!.
 

mob

the guy who hits on his mom
20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 3, 2003
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#26
  • Apr 21, 2009
  • #26
haha thanks guys, I figured I didnt need any vacuum just wanted to make sure before I start throwing everything away. The harness is gonna be a pain I can see already.
 

Mr. Rustypwnz

Advanced Member
Jun 1, 2005
1,761
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indianapolis/ valdosta ga
Apr 21, 2009
#27
  • Apr 21, 2009
  • #27
your car is a 93? correct?

if so your factory amp is under your pass seat. That box is your comp, and the harness can be pulled out with ease even with the dash in place, ive done it twice in two different cars.
 

HotFox

15 Year Member
Jan 5, 2009
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SE Michigan
Apr 21, 2009
#28
  • Apr 21, 2009
  • #28
What were you using for oil in the engine? how many miles? Sure is a lot of sludge over your rockers and in the valley. Let me guess synthetic?

Scott
 

mob

the guy who hits on his mom
20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 3, 2003
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#29
  • Apr 21, 2009
  • #29
No, never seen synthetic, I used to run Mobil 1 high mileage 10w30, and my last oil changed I switched to valvoline 50 because of low oil pressure. I thought synthetic was supposed to be better for reducing sludge....

There is tons of sludge though.
 

HotFox

15 Year Member
Jan 5, 2009
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Apr 21, 2009
#30
  • Apr 21, 2009
  • #30
mob said:
No, never seen synthetic, I used to run Mobil 1 high mileage 10w30, and my last oil changed I switched to valvoline 50 because of low oil pressure. I thought synthetic was supposed to be better for reducing sludge....

The is tons of sludge though.
Click to expand...

Not from what I have been told, syn lack the detergents. That motor is yuk, the film on the rockers is it slimy or is it kind of baked on?

There are a lot of opinions on oil, if I tore a motor down like that and I was using X oil and changed it religiously, I would be looking for different oil.

Scott
 

mob

the guy who hits on his mom
20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 3, 2003
2,566
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Apr 21, 2009
#31
  • Apr 21, 2009
  • #31
The motor is going to be completley worked and machined by a shop so I am not worried about it. I am going to ask the builder what kind of oil I should use.

It was slimy and kind of baked on. It came off with degresser though.

 
K

Kevins89notch5.0

Founding Member
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#32
  • Apr 21, 2009
  • #32
Even with the "OMG I'm building a race car" attitude, I would still be against going carbed. But now you are sticking with a stock block, and weak heads, and still going carbed? You could have just slapped on a blower on there and made plenty of power. Oh well, to each their own.
 

mob

the guy who hits on his mom
20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 3, 2003
2,566
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#33
  • Apr 21, 2009
  • #33
I am going with a blow thru setup
 
K

KlrSnk

New Member
Jun 21, 2006
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Apr 22, 2009
#34
  • Apr 22, 2009
  • #34
Are you parting out interior too? If so how much for the trim piece around the ac knobs? All the tabs on mine are broke.
 

1990Coupe

Founding Member
Mar 11, 2002
1,462
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114
Toms River NJ
Apr 22, 2009
#35
  • Apr 22, 2009
  • #35
HotFox said:
Not from what I have been told, syn lack the detergents. That motor is yuk, the film on the rockers is it slimy or is it kind of baked on?

There are a lot of opinions on oil, if I tore a motor down like that and I was using X oil and changed it religiously, I would be looking for different oil.

Scott
Click to expand...

Srsly?!??!

I've seen just about every engine i've taken apart with a decent amount of miles on it look exactly like that.. Nothing looks odd about it to me. Nothing that yuk about it.
 

mob

the guy who hits on his mom
20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 3, 2003
2,566
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Apr 25, 2009
#36
  • Apr 25, 2009
  • #36
Well looky what I got today. I am staying EFI though just because I dont want to spend 900 bucks on a blow thru carb.



 
B

bentley429

Banned
Nov 25, 2004
528
3
0
Connecticut
Apr 25, 2009
#37
  • Apr 25, 2009
  • #37
Not to be a ass but your building a full out race car with the same parts street cars use? I think your going to regret your choice.
 

mob

the guy who hits on his mom
20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 3, 2003
2,566
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Apr 25, 2009
#38
  • Apr 25, 2009
  • #38
If thats how you want to look at it than sure. I never said I am going to build a full out race car to be nhra approved. I just said I am not going to compromise anything for comfort. By no means am I going to take everything apart and just put it back together in the same way. The block is going to be worked, I am reusing stock crank and rods because I expect the block to split for the crank does, and I am getting new pistons. When the block splits that will be my excuse to move up to a 351, but I am 20 years old and in college so I dont have the luxury of buying whatever I want. What I was trying to say by going all out is that everything I am going to do to this car will be with the mindset of racing it, solid motor mounts, no p/s, removing interior parts, fuel system, suspension, etc, etc. Just because I am reusing a few stock parts doesnt mean I am going to regret anything, just leaves me more room to upgrade later. And I am hoping the boost will get me to my power goal around 450-500, I may need a better set of heads but that can come later, like I said, in no hurry.
 

S&B

I hate my CT. :(
10 Year Member
Dec 18, 2005
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Cheesehead
Apr 25, 2009
#39
  • Apr 25, 2009
  • #39
mob said:
If thats how you want to look at it than sure. I never said I am going to build a full out race car to be nhra approved. I just said I am not going to compromise anything for comfort. By no means am I going to take everything apart and just put it back together in the same way. The block is going to be worked, I am reusing stock crank and rods because I expect the block to split for the crank does, and I am getting new pistons. When the block splits that will be my excuse to move up to a 351, but I am 20 years old and in college so I dont have the luxury of buying whatever I want. What I was trying to say by going all out is that everything I am going to do to this car will be with the mindset of racing it, solid motor mounts, no p/s, removing interior parts, fuel system, suspension, etc, etc. Just because I am reusing a few stock parts doesnt mean I am going to regret anything, just leaves me more room to upgrade later. And I am hoping the boost will get me to my power goal around 450-500, I may need a better set of heads but that can come later, like I said, in no hurry.
Click to expand...

Sounds like a good plan, I would look fore something cheap, buy good HG's and ARP hardware, and have a cam made, or find someone the get you the right setup. Dont forget fuel sys. clutch and trans.
 

mob

the guy who hits on his mom
20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 3, 2003
2,566
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104
Dallas, TX
Apr 25, 2009
#40
  • Apr 25, 2009
  • #40
yea I am going to look to go cheap but definatly not skimping on any supporting parts such as fuel, and hardware. Also going custom on the cam, I'd rather save one more paycheck and get a custom cam over an off the shelf. The turbo is an hx35, the next thing I will do though is get it upgraded to a hybrid hx35/hx40. I am going to hold off on the paint so that I can mock up the turbo and piping and then rip the motor out and get everything welded up and painted.
 
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