Model builders guidance please

bryce93lx

Member

Jan 20, 2006

88

1

19

Luke AFB AZ

Dec 5, 2008

#1

• Dec 5, 2008

• #1

Hey guys i know there a several guys who build models in this forum and i just got interested in it. here is one i made the last couple of days, i was a cool kit old ford powered by a 5.0, had some fit issues but it is a pretty basic kit so i figured that. I was wondering if anyone had paint, and gluing tips. i have some testors stuff and the glue is a pain. any links or tips would be sweet thanks, here are a few crappy cell pics

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Coast2CoaStang

Member

Aug 11, 2008

254

4

19

Dec 5, 2008

#2

• Dec 5, 2008

• #2

I use the Testors glue as well. I just remove any plating, or paint in the areas to be glued. You only need to use small drops. If you use too much it will get hot enough to warp the plastic, and take a while to set up.

 

Flavadave4

Active Member

Nov 28, 2003

1,044

21

49

Utica, NY

Dec 5, 2008

#3

• Dec 5, 2008

• #3

I have found that I like this stuff the best...



This site has a nice forum for us scale builders, here is a link to the how to section that will give you tons of ideas
AF Car Modeling Tutorial, How-To and Product Review Depository - Automotive Forums .com Car Chat

And finally some inspiration from a great buildier who I love his choice of subject.
ItalianHorses Home - Ferrari Model Cars in 1/24 Scale

 

Coast2CoaStang

Member

Aug 11, 2008

254

4

19

Dec 5, 2008

#4

• Dec 5, 2008

• #4

+1 on the link. Flavadave4 got me hooked on that site. There is some really talented builders there.

 

bryce93lx

Member

Jan 20, 2006

88

1

19

Luke AFB AZ

Dec 5, 2008

#5

• Dec 5, 2008

• #5

thanks dave, is that kind of glue the super permanent r/c plane stuff that you need debonder for?
Either of you played with airbrush setups?

 

B

bstrd86

New Member

Oct 17, 2003

44

0

0

DFW tx

Dec 5, 2008

#6

• Dec 5, 2008

• #6

For styrene parts I just use MEK. It draws down in the joint & makes very little mess (plus I can get it for free). For bonding different parts (like resin parts to styrene, etc.) I use a CA glue or just plain old super glue.

 

Vinnietbird

Member

Jun 2, 2005

584

3

19

Dec 5, 2008

#7

• Dec 5, 2008

• #7

Your truck looks great.I like the fuelie 5.0 under the hood.Nice.I use Zap glue.It's a lot like super glue.I don't use it on the windows.Only clear glue for those.I also use accelerator with the Zap.Once you apply the glue,give it a quick spray with the accelerator,and the glue is dry in a second.I use a lot of different shapes of styrene that can be found at hobby shops,and I use brass rods and tubes to make hinges,.I also use the Pro-Weld on occasion.Here's my one of none Shelby Torino I built a while back.Boss 429,Kelsey Hayes wheels,opening everything,Mustang/Torino hybrid interior with Shelby scoops and more on the outside.It was built for a special contest for "Phantom" Fords (cars that never actually existed).It was built as period correct as possible.



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Flavadave4

Active Member

Nov 28, 2003

1,044

21

49

Utica, NY

Dec 5, 2008

#8

• Dec 5, 2008

• #8

Wow, nice details Vinnie...do you have any clearer pics?

 

Vinnietbird

Member

Jun 2, 2005

584

3

19

Dec 5, 2008

#9

• Dec 5, 2008

• #9

No,but I can get some.These were taken with my old camera.I'll get the new one out and get a couple.In the mean time,here's a coupe of my Daytona Charger.I opened the doors and trunk on it,the seats tilt forward,and the hardest part,making the lights so they could open and close.

 

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Flavadave4

Active Member

Nov 28, 2003

1,044

21

49

Utica, NY

Dec 6, 2008

#10

• Dec 6, 2008

• #10

Ughh...If i ever have the money to spare I am going to buy one of the winged warriors, 'coarse I mean 1:1

 

85_SS_302_Coupe

it sucks (I know) to be on the receiving end

15 Year Member

Nov 11, 2003

6,945

1,597

223

Northern KY

Dec 6, 2008

#11

• Dec 6, 2008

• #11

The thing with glue is less = more, and be very careful gluing parts that are already painted and make damn sure the paint is dry before you go pressing pieces together or you'll finger print your paint. I prefer to put certain pieces together first, fill and smooth the seams and then paint afterwards. Get creative and think of things to hold the parts while they dry, like medical clamps (the ones people smoke dope with lol) or even tooth pics. For really small parts i'll use regular old super glue...which makes it much less fragile when it's finished but be careful because the glue will dry with a white haze, so it's best to use it only on something that'll get painted after you glue it. The most important thing is patience...don't expect to get a great model done in one evening or even a week if you're like me.

 

Vinnietbird

Member

Jun 2, 2005

584

3

19

Dec 6, 2008

#12

• Dec 6, 2008

• #12

To help prevent the white haze from super glue,keep in a well ventilated area,and don't glue parts then put them in a box or under anything.I also use a tooth pick or a sharpened piece of platic to apply small amount of glue.As stated in the post above,less is more.The accelerator,as i mentioned before will dry the super glue/Zap glue in about a second,maybe two if you're using small amounts.I've used the accelerator and glue to make fender flares and more.It dries rock hard.

 

nisreo

New Member

Jul 22, 2006

178

0

0

Dec 8, 2008

#13

• Dec 8, 2008

• #13

Couple tips from my brother who seems to be better at models then myself.

colored thread works great for plug wires
solder for nitrous or other hoses
rice models are good sources for stuff like tachs, nitrous tanks and seats

 

Vinnietbird

Member

Jun 2, 2005

584

3

19

Dec 8, 2008

#14

• Dec 8, 2008

• #14

When I build,which isn't very often with the Sport project going on,I buy photo etched billet distributors,which come with great plug wire and boot materials,plus plug wire looms.Lot's of special order stuff for them out there.I use mine for competitions once a year.