Model builders guidance please

[bryce93lx]

Hey guys i know there a several guys who build models in this forum and i just got interested in it. here is one i made the last couple of days, i was a cool kit old ford powered by a 5.0, had some fit issues but it is a pretty basic kit so i figured that. I was wondering if anyone had paint, and gluing tips. i have some testors stuff and the glue is a pain. any links or tips would be sweet thanks, here are a few crappy cell pics

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[Coast2CoaStang]

I use the Testors glue as well. I just remove any plating, or paint in the areas to be glued. You only need to use small drops. If you use too much it will get hot enough to warp the plastic, and take a while to set up.

 

[Flavadave4]

I have found that I like this stuff the best...

This site has a nice forum for us scale builders, here is a link to the how to section that will give you tons of ideas
AF Car Modeling Tutorial, How-To and Product Review Depository - Automotive Forums .com Car Chat

And finally some inspiration from a great buildier who I love his choice of subject.
ItalianHorses Home - Ferrari Model Cars in 1/24 Scale

 

[Coast2CoaStang]

+1 on the link. Flavadave4 got me hooked on that site. There is some really talented builders there.

 

[bryce93lx]

thanks dave, is that kind of glue the super permanent r/c plane stuff that you need debonder for?
Either of you played with airbrush setups?

 

[bstrd86]

For styrene parts I just use MEK. It draws down in the joint & makes very little mess (plus I can get it for free). For bonding different parts (like resin parts to styrene, etc.) I use a CA glue or just plain old super glue.

 

[Vinnietbird]

Your truck looks great.I like the fuelie 5.0 under the hood.Nice.I use Zap glue.It's a lot like super glue.I don't use it on the windows.Only clear glue for those.I also use accelerator with the Zap.Once you apply the glue,give it a quick spray with the accelerator,and the glue is dry in a second.I use a lot of different shapes of styrene that can be found at hobby shops,and I use brass rods and tubes to make hinges,.I also use the Pro-Weld on occasion.Here's my one of none Shelby Torino I built a while back.Boss 429,Kelsey Hayes wheels,opening everything,Mustang/Torino hybrid interior with Shelby scoops and more on the outside.It was built for a special contest for "Phantom" Fords (cars that never actually existed).It was built as period correct as possible.

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[Flavadave4]

Wow, nice details Vinnie...do you have any clearer pics?

 

[Vinnietbird]

No,but I can get some.These were taken with my old camera.I'll get the new one out and get a couple.In the mean time,here's a coupe of my Daytona Charger.I opened the doors and trunk on it,the seats tilt forward,and the hardest part,making the lights so they could open and close.

 

[Flavadave4]

Ughh...If i ever have the money to spare I am going to buy one of the winged warriors, 'coarse I mean 1:1

 

[85_SS_302_Coupe]

The thing with glue is less = more, and be very careful gluing parts that are already painted and make damn sure the paint is dry before you go pressing pieces together or you'll finger print your paint. I prefer to put certain pieces together first, fill and smooth the seams and then paint afterwards. Get creative and think of things to hold the parts while they dry, like medical clamps (the ones people smoke dope with lol) or even tooth pics. For really small parts i'll use regular old super glue...which makes it much less fragile when it's finished but be careful because the glue will dry with a white haze, so it's best to use it only on something that'll get painted after you glue it. The most important thing is patience...don't expect to get a great model done in one evening or even a week if you're like me.

 

[Vinnietbird]

To help prevent the white haze from super glue,keep in a well ventilated area,and don't glue parts then put them in a box or under anything.I also use a tooth pick or a sharpened piece of platic to apply small amount of glue.As stated in the post above,less is more.The accelerator,as i mentioned before will dry the super glue/Zap glue in about a second,maybe two if you're using small amounts.I've used the accelerator and glue to make fender flares and more.It dries rock hard.

 

[nisreo]

Couple tips from my brother who seems to be better at models then myself.

colored thread works great for plug wires
solder for nitrous or other hoses
rice models are good sources for stuff like tachs, nitrous tanks and seats

 

[Vinnietbird]

When I build,which isn't very often with the Sport project going on,I buy photo etched billet distributors,which come with great plug wire and boot materials,plus plug wire looms.Lot's of special order stuff for them out there.I use mine for competitions once a year.