Mods 4 04 GT

michphish

New Member
Dec 2, 2005
12
0
0
Hello Everyone! I have been a long time mustang and ford owner. I currently own a 04 GT. The warranty just ran out so it is time for mods. I know the questions below have been asked a million times before but what the hell; this is my first post on the board so I should use my noob question up while I can. Here it goes…

This car is a daily driver and I put about 350+ mostly hwy miles a week on it. Again, it is an 04 GT with a 5spd. I already have a K&N off road filter kit and strut tower brace installed, plus a set of flows ( I am open to other suggestions fro mufflers) in the garage ready to go. My GF is getting me c-springs for Xmas, and my mom is getting me a set of Bils. I have about 1500-2K to spend over the next 2 months for mods. I figure it will be broken down into roughly 3-4 stages of about $500 each maybe a bit more for one maybe less for carry over. I am wondering what the census is of the board for mods in this type of scenario and more importantly order. I am also very interested in brand recommendations. Please feel free to be as specific as possible.

Here is the rough draft in no order and only ideas so feel free to change up by removing or adding however you see fit…

Subframes (full? Bolt-in? Weld in?)
Headers (full or short? equal or unequal?)
Gears (3.73 or 4.10 FRPP)
mid pipe (X or prochamber? With cats)
Accufab plen + 75MM TB
MGW shifter
Pulleys (not sure on these?)
Chip (SCT? Diablo? Hypertech? Superchips? Clueless here)


I think that will pretty much eat up my budget. I am a pretty capable wrench and have the tools needed for most installs. Although, I cannot fab crap or weld anything. J

I thank everyone in advance for their help and posts! :hail2:
 
As far as subframes go, its up to you, most guys on here will tell you to get longtube headers, you will also be told not to fear the gear, and opt for the 4.10s, however you drive a few miles each day, so Like im going to, i would get 3.73s, exhaust combo will be up to you, because there are so many out there, do some research on that , and pick the best in YOUR opinion, get the shifter, get the steeda pulleys, I personally love them, and get the SCT tune.

hope this all helps.

And by the way, WELCOME
 
Subframes - Maximum Motorsports XL Subframes (Full Length, Weld In)
Headers - Long Tubes, BBK is a good brand for your price range. You can get some BBK Ceramic Coated LT's just under $500.
Gears - 4.10's FRPP
Mid Pipe - H or Prochamber with the Flows
Accufab Plenum and TB - Perfect, might want to go 70mm
MGW Shifter - You'll love it!
Pulleys - Not something I would do, but if you go with a set go Steeda, not a piggyback style.
Programmer - SCT Xcal2

Just my .02
 
Yes, I do havbe lots of research to do...

I am unsure on the subs, but I am thinking maybe?

I am not sold on the flows, they are just lying in my garage that came with a trade of one of my older muscle cars I use to own(can't remeber which). So since they are free, I am thinking about it for now and use my $$ for other mods.

Yes, pulleys, can't decide, yes, no, I don't know???

As for the TB, 70 over 75, really? more research, come on I have a day job :)

Thanks this is great exactly what I am after!!!
 
Subframes Best are weld-in, since you do not weld you will have to have this done for you
Headers LTs for sure but $1000 for parts and install makes it not worth it IMHO
Gears 4.10, installation can be expensive and is not something you can do yourself aluminum driveshaft is recommended with this mod
mid pipe H
Accufab plen + 75MM TB Might as well...
MGW shifter Sure
Pulleys I do not recommend these to anyone :notnice:
Chip They are not chips now they are handheld engine programmers, def get one :nice:
 
My .02
Subs - Maximum Motorsports or Steeda. Just get ful length weld in, whatever you do.
Headers - SLP, expensive but good. Hooker, good little cheaper. BBK, good and cheapest of the good. I have Mac ceramic and it's too long of a story. You take a risk going cheap.
Gears - I have 3.73's due to highway driving and love them. It's a good compromise, but 4.10's are the choice of most.
Mid pipe - H or Prochamber. H is deeper and x has more raspy sound. There is very minimal hp difference between the two. Stay away from BBK X with your flows.
Accufab Plenum and TB - Good choice my man. I have 75mm and I'm NA. Room to grow. Most say 70mm NA and 75 for FI. Again minimal difference when your NA, big difference if you go the SC route.
MGW shifter - Again good choice. I have Tri-ax but I've been thinking of switching to MGW due to the good things I've been hearing.
Pullies - Steeda. Nothing else. To do or not to do, that is the question. All gains add up, but again minimal gains with possible problems, especially if not installed correctly. If SC is in your future plans, pass on the pullies because you'll have to take them off.
Programmer - I have predator and I like it. See what dyno tuner you have near you and what they use. From what I've read, SCT seems to have an edge on the predator, but I noticed gains from mine and I have nothing bad to say about it.
I think I just agreed with everyting Blinkstang said, but that's because it's the truth. :Word:
Here's a question for you. Why not save a few K more and go SC? I've done most bolt ons and have been dissapointed with the hp and lack of SOTP differences. I enjoy working on my car and had fun learning and installing everything, but if I could go back to high school we would have won state. But seriously if I could do it again, I would have just saved and gone with a KB, or even a mongoose kit from ModularPowerhouse, it's only 4K with everything you need. Those will put you in the 300-400RWHP with one shot. With all your mods listed you'll be about 270RWHP.
Just though I'd confuse your decisions some more.:D
 
Blinkstang said:
Subframes - Maximum Motorsports XL Subframes (Full Length, Weld In)
Headers - Long Tubes, BBK is a good brand for your price range. You can get some BBK Ceramic Coated LT's just under $500.
Gears - 4.10's FRPP
Mid Pipe - H or Prochamber with the Flows
Accufab Plenum and TB - Perfect, might want to go 70mm
MGW Shifter - You'll love it!
Pulleys - Not something I would do, but if you go with a set go Steeda, not a piggyback style.
Programmer - SCT Xcal2

Just my .02

:Word:
Accufab- 75mm TB on N/A...your gas pedal may stick...my bf's does that and to me it's annoying. haha. i have the 70mm...
Lt's & Midpipe- H-pipe w/ flows & BBK LT's is awesome IMO...I have a vid of mine
Gears- guess it depends on what you do IMO. 3.73s if you're on the highway a lot or plan to S/C or turbo it...most do 4.10s though. 3.73s is perfect for me.
Pulleys- I do like my U/D pulleys..i did the tb/plenum & pulleys at the same time and i felt a difference when i drove.

either way, have fun!! Modding is so addicting :D
 
Subframes - i would say yes but get wled in's from maximum motorsports
Headers - everyone here will say LT's
Gears - this is debatable some people like 3.73's other 4.10's depending on what your future plans are if you plan on super charging then 3.73's -N/A 4.10's
mid pipe - O/R H pipe since you have flows or you can get a staright thru desing cat back and then go with the X-pipe
Accufab TB/ plenum combo - go with 75mm
MGW shifter - sure why not
Pulleys - sure if your staying N/A but if you are going FI dont get them
Chip - more like a hand held tuner most people here like SCT but check with your local tune shop and see what they use some use Diablo Sport others SCT
 
It's funny it seems most everyboday is in the same conflict I am. No wonder I am sort of confused internally :)

Pulleys no Pulleys :)
70mm, 75mm :)
3.73, 4.10 :)

Sounds like my head everyday spinning around...

Yes I would love to SC since I have already gone that route on a few fords (one was a eddie bauer bronco :)). It was clearly the best mod I did on any vehicle. Although, I think I need a good base first that is what my mod list. Who knows I may nver SC, these mods I can be rolling by my Bday in Feb!

Here is another internal swirl... I'd love LT, but the problerm is price! Not really the part, but installation. I have installed several shories before and I tell you everytime I SEVERELY regret it. What a PITA install. I am hoping LT are easier? I wonder what the best mid would be for the sniffer test here in Texas...

Also, why have a shop do gears? I've done this before a few times and it was not to difficult, esp in my 9" easy as pie :)

Thanks again everyone this is perfect!
 
if the sniffer test is as strict as here in Cali then you'll need to keep your mid pipe lying around to swap it to be able to pass other wise just get a cated H-pipe, LT's can also be a pita to install and they can be trouble when taking out the tranny for a clutch replacement
 
Mustang5L5 said:
How did the warranty run out so quickly for a 2004??? You drive 36K miles already?

First thing I thought as well, and was planning to post the question. Then by the time I read through the thread, someone already had.

350 miles a week X 52 weeks a year is only 18200 in a year. Did you buy your car in Dec of '03?
 
I got it in late Oct or early Nov of 03. The 350 is conservative for my mileage a week, it is prob more like 500 now. Hell I'd have to check the odo (it's alwasy at miles to tank not total miles) but I am actual at over 40K maybe even over 41K (oil changeisn't until 43K). They rack up QUICK!

Anyway, back to the topic...

Here is where I sit from my research and the day at speed shops in order of mods:

Weld in the Flos
4.10's
Diablo (the tuner I will use prefs them, but I think I want the SCT, still unsure)
Prochamber (might add at anytime, I have a connect for used goodies)
Plenn/75MM (still need more research on 70vs75)
MGW
Pulleys (will add at anytime due to used connect, he gets saleen/Steeda pullies, does it matter which?)

I think I am going to hold off on any headers. I want to research some motor work, transmissions, and clutches. So since they are a PITA to install and do any of these repairs/upgrades it would be best to wiat. Besides my tuner said he would install them for free when/if I did the cam and heads thing.

What does everyone think?
 
Subframes MM, HPM or Steeda Full length weld in
Headers Hooker, Flowtech Longtubes(on the cheaper side) SLP(expensive) BBK LT's cause you to have to take a header off in order to change the clutch
Gears FRPP 4.10 or 4.30 gears
mid pipe Dr. Gas o/r x w/ magnaflow mufflers
Accufab plen + 75MM TB
MGW shifter
Pulleys Steeda
Chip SCT Xcal/Xcal 2

You can still have mods and have warranty work done. The mods can not be the cause of the warranty. My 99 Cobra had BBK Longtubes, o/r h flowmasters, mac cai, Steeda pulleys, A tune by SHM, FRPP 4.10 gears and a Steeda tri-Ax and i still got warranty work done on it.