Sub frames: Steeda full length weld ins (they reinforce the lower control arm mounts)
Headers: Bassani mid-length
Gears: FRPP 3.73
Mid pipe: Bassani X-pipe
Accufab plen & 75mm TB
MGW shifter
Pulleys: Either steeda or March
Chip: Diable predator tuner
I didn't want to risk warraty work hassles, that is why I waited. As you can read I drive alot and need my car. The only reason I am weldingin the FLO is becasue they are in my garage on the shelf collecting dust.
Man I really do appreciate all these responses! I didn't expect so much help! THANKS!!!
the vid finally http://media.putfile.com/Exhaust2269 for anyone who wants to hear the set up. I should've hit it harder now that i watched it but it'll do for now
OK Most full length subs won't clear stock Hpipe. No big deal if your going with an offroad pipe but in your area do you have echecks? And Since you mention cats in your first question I guess you have emissions.
OK if no Echecks, Full length subs. Now most say go ahead and do full length headers. Well I couldn't get 1 single company to Guarntee that I would still be able to drop the tranny without dropping the long tubes. So I'm putting shorties on this winter. Most people see 10-15 hp across the board with LT's and 5-8 with shorties so the 10hp loss but still been able to pull the tranny is worth it to me.
Gears. 4.10's unless you plan on Racing on the interstate. I knock down 24+mpg on the highway. Only real downfall is I have to shift into 5th before the traps on the 1/4mile track when spraying. and get FRPP gears you and your installer will be much happier also I would get the master bearing kit and do it at the same time.
Shifter MGW I love it. I adjusted it to where when my hand comes off the wheel it is on the shifter no reaching.
Midpipe - is too personal a choice. I like Hpipe's but have a prochamber due to I got a good deal on it.
Catback - I'd just weld those flows in and call it done.
Pullies - Sorry can't be any help here.
Programmer - I'd get a handheld. I'm going xcal2 just because there are 2 real good tuners that use SCT within 2 hours of me. Plus for racing the 2 step is cool as can be.
Plenum&Tb - well if you got the coin sure. Although if you shop around you could prolly pick up a good used nitrous kit for that price
I would focus your mods, and just do groups at a time. For instance, do gears/aluminum driveshaft/MGW... then do your exhaust.. then your suspension.. just prioritize them. Good luck on whatever you decide.
@ sgarlic That is good advice. I am shooting for the focus of groups, hence the $500 here $500 there. I know it is a little sparatic now, but I will calm down
@Boowfo--Aren't all real races on the HWY Seriously, you seem to think alot like me on mods...I would love ot put spray on, I have a buddy selling a bottle for a smokin' deal to me, but it scares my inner school girl
I hear N2O is bad for our cars due to the type of pistons. Not true? More searching to do...
I would focus your mods, and just do groups at a time. For instance, do gears/aluminum driveshaft/MGW... then do your exhaust.. then your suspension.. just prioritize them. Good luck on whatever you decide.
Hey Save up 2,000 More and just Get a Vortec or KB 1.7!!!! That would be the most beneficial to you! I wish I wouldn't have done all the mods I've done and just went with the Blower! I would be a hell of alot faster!
yea I am
With the blower I don't get all groups addressed only speed. For the money I would rather have a well balanced car...
Handling
Braking
Acceleration
Even if I did not want a balnced car, I would still need/want to address most of my list... Like exhaust, gears, programmer/tuner, and maybe even intake.
I do agree the blower is a great spped upgrade, and I have always been happiest with this mod, but it never stopped there 1st or last.