most cost effective way to reach atleast 300 at the wheels

fivespeedsteed

20+ Year Stangneter :roc</strong><span class=
Oct 17, 2003
748
22
69
Richmond, VA
would that be to use my stock short block and get

gt40p heads off ebay, craigs, junkyard, ect
cobra intake manifold (upper and lower) off ebay, craigs, ect
and a b cam

?

and of course id be doing new gaskets, bigger tbody mass air, water pump, timing chain, injectors, ect, ect, exhaust or are gt40p heads not worth it to do the headers? are headers for p heads more expensive than normal shorties?

im not looking for a crazy motor setup really, but i cant justify spending 2450 on the trick flow top end kit. would that top end kit get me another 40 hp or so? im just looking to get some fun street horsepower, that will hold up for auto x, hdpe stuff, and wont leak oil in my dads driveway.

would it be worth it to just wait, go on fordstrokers spend 2k on a new shortblock 331 (still ford based) then spend another 2450 on the top end kit?

i have plenty of fun with my stock nearly 5.0, im not worried about getting a dart based motor to hold boost down the road or whatever, ill be getting a termi at some point for the fast part. just want reliable fun hp/tq numbers.
 
What you described would work well... I'm not sure it will toss down 300 at the wheels without head work, or a custom cam, but dyno numbers aren't the be all end all.

We just grabbed an Explorer motor for my sisters fox. Going to put a stock HO cam in it, full exhaust and her bolt ons and figure 260-270 at the tires would be good.
 
without porting done to the heads and intake, I don't think you will see anywhere near 300 to the wheels. More likely 260 ish tops which in the real world is good for 12 sec time slips. Brian is just one of many examples that combo works very well. If you are shooting for 300 RWHP I would save for the stroker. Use the cobra/explorer top end with a custom cam and you will easily eclipse the 300 mark.
 
i thought we did the math at one point and found out that the 302-331 stroke was only good for 40 hp or so or am i way wrong?

even if i ported and polsihed the heads and intake manifold and went with a slightly more agressive cam that would still be cheaper than doign the tfs top end kit wouldn't it?
 
I want my sisters car to finish up for early spring time. It will be a good example of a simple, cheap combo. untouched 71K mile explorer motor, HO cam, 3.55s, usual bolt ons and 18" street tires. Probably hit the track once or twice, my guess is it will run with my car, lower 13s in the 105+ range.
 
Some people even fall short of 300rwhp with aftermarket aluminum heads, and it's because they miss the mark on the details. Things like an electric fan, big TB, big MAF, basic tune, etc can mean the difference between 285rwhp and 300rwhp. Like said above, P heads probably won't get you to 300 without a lot of work.

Also, the TFS top end kit is probably better suited for a stock 302. A 331 might be happier with bigger heads.
 
The problem with gt40s is that by the time you have them worked over you were better off breaking out the CC on some AFR's or TW heads to begin with.

For a grocery getter with some grunt(my car)they rock the house, but if you are looking for max HP do yourself a favor and get some aluminums. I have seen multiple sets of used aluminum heads selling for well under 1k the last few weeks. People are finishing their winter builds and selling off old stuff left and right.
 
if you cant port yourself, dont get p heads, get the E streets or something like a gt40x head, they flow around 250cfm box stock, and with a good cam can make good power. I wouldnt go with a cobra either because, it needs to be opened up alot!! to match the head port.. (i just did a cobra for a kid).. And go with something bigger than a b cam.

If i wanted to make some power (300+) here's how i would do it.

gt40x heads
tfs stage 2
ported typhoon intake ($300 shipped!)
longtubes
all the bolt ons..

gt40x heads are only $950 for a set right now, and they make a considerable amount more than p heads..

you could be in that combo and make well over 300rwhp for under 2K..
 
so x heads are worth the money over p's but still wont break the bank like afr's or tricks.. very good info.

long tubes wont pass inspection here in va so id have to do shorties.

are x heads aluminum? where do you guys see nice alum. heads selling used? the x heads your referrin to are they the 64 or 58 cc version?
 
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LS1 swap!




:)


I think you're on the right track with all the bolt ons. But I think you will need head work as well. 25thMustang is right tho....HP is everything. His car is running mid 12's on a GT40 motor. Most guys making 400-500RWHP can only get into mid 12's because they can't hook up or drive. Brian's car does both.
 
so x heads are worth the money over p's but still wont break the bank like afr's or tricks.. very good info.

long tubes wont pass inspection here in va so id have to do shorties.

are x heads aluminum? where do you guys see nice alum. heads selling used? the x heads your referrin to are they the 64 or 58 cc version?

58cc, mine were milled .060 though. (yes thats right) I paid $500 with a fresh 5 angle valve job, and i ran a ported typhoon intake, the only reason i say to run the typhoon is becasue it has more room to grow than a gt40 AND an eddy performer. i have had all 3 a couple of times, and everytime i measure the thickness of the walls, and the typhoon wins everytime. Plus its only $300 and you can grow on it some. You really cant do that on a cobra without having to port the piss out of it...

but for the money the gt40x heads or the eddy e-street heads are very hard to beat..
 
The easiest way to get to 300 hp? I called Jay Allen and told him I wanted minimum 300 horsepower out of a completely stock bottom end, without flycutting pistons. For around $3k he designed a complete combo with a custom grind, TFS TW 170cc heads with a bowl blend milled to 58cc combustion chambers with ferrea 6000 series valves, and a TFS track heat intake manifold. The combo also included supporting valvetrain components. The car put down 306/311 with power steering, stock clutch fan, and working air conditioning. There was plenty more power left in the car, and it ran like a raped ape with perfect driveability. Do it once and do it right... just my humble opinion.

I can get you a complete mod list if it's something you'd like to replicate.