Mostly stock. Which blower: Powerdyne, Paxton, Vortech?

[criticman]

Rick: I agree. The 255lph seems like a good plan. I know when I was considering the turbo route, everything pointed in that direction.

I also like the idea of bypassing the FMU and just doing the 42# injectors.

As far as upgrading the rails/lines - probably not necessary just yet? Maybe a nice upgrade as I get extra money down the line?

 

[Rick 91GT]

Yeah not needed yet, the stock lines and rails are fine....

 

[criticman]

Here's another big question...

What are the odds that I can go ahead and install the big injectors and fuel pump next weekend and then do the supercharger over my spring break in about a month?

 

[criticman]

MORE QUESTIONS

UPR Boostmaster vs. AFM PowerPipe? Anyone tried both and have a favorite? Or know of magazine/dyno comparisons? Originally I would've gone with the UPR since it was ABS, but I believe I read the AFM PowerPipe is now coated in and out to reduce temps and prevent rust.

Next up, MAFs!

FRP Lightning MAF or a Pro-M? I know there are several places with insanely great deals on 42#ers w/ Lightning MAF and the Pro-M is $200+ than the Lightning one, but is it worth the investment for the Pro-M?

 

[IntenseBlue]

Haven't tried either, but I'd buy AFM only for supercharger cais.

 

[91ghp5.0]

i'd go AFM powerpipe...i've only heard good stuff about 'em. you are running my route..im subscribing! make sure you let us know what kit you go with. the s trim comes with a bypass valve (what model?) and the t-rex? maybe i misunderstood that. would an S trim or equivalent model kill the stock block? i've heard they bite the dust around 500 crank horse.

 

[criticman]

i'd go AFM powerpipe...i've only heard good stuff about 'em. you are running my route..im subscribing! make sure you let us know what kit you go with. the s trim comes with a bypass valve (what model?) and the t-rex? maybe i misunderstood that. would an S trim or equivalent model kill the stock block? i've heard they bite the dust around 500 crank horse.

I have heard from multiple engine building sources that the stock block and gaskets can handle up to 10psi.

Also, Rick91GT knows what he is talking about and says it should not be any problem.

I am leaning towards the V1 SC-Trim is 5-6 psi without methanol or a powerpipe. That should be in the "safe" range of boost for a stock block. Anything over 10psi and most people will suggest new internals, better gaskets, and a main girdle support for the block or stepping up to a 4 bolt main block.


I guess the biggest concern I have is making sure the MAF works with whatever air inlet pipe I pick. i.e., will a Lightning MAF work with the UPR or AFM pipes or do they require a Pro-M?

 

[criticman]

Alright, an update on the required MAF's. From what I can tell after looking at the best quality pics of the FRP Lighting MAF and the Pro-M MAF, they have the same ultimate exterior features, so I am assuming either would work with the AFM or UPR pipes.

I have an email in to both companies asking specifically what MAF is required. I will post back when I get a response.

If anyone else knows of what MAFs work with these pipes, let me know. Also, I am still looking for an accurate comparison of the UPR and AFM boost pipes.

As for an update on the blower: I have decided either a Paxton Novi 1000 or a Vortech V1 SC-Trim. Since I am not worried about tapping the oil pan and am not liking the idea of the belt breaking, I have pretty much ruled out the Powerdyne unit. If anyone has input as to which route to go, the Paxton or Vortech, please post it up!

Thanks everyone for the input so far.

 

[IntenseBlue]

Vortech SC flows more and can support more horsepower according to both of their sites.

 

[Rick 91GT]

The UPR ABS pipe is a near identical copy of the AFM unit, you just have to plug the fitting for the bypass valve if not using it.

The Lightning meter requires a custom chip since it was made for a OBDII system, I do not beleive you can make it work with the older style PMS. I have not had the chance to mess with the newer style so I do not know if that is possible or not. Give AFM a call.. What model do you have?

INJECTORS, you can tune it out with the PMS but I would just wait and install it with the blower. The pump is no problem...

 

[criticman]

Hmm. Well, I like the idea of the ABS material not transferring heat. How hard is it to plug that fitting? Wouldn't want a leak pulling in hot air outside of the filter.

Hmm, good point about the Lightning meter. Didn't think about that. I guess a Pro-M one will be the route I go. With the money saved if I go with UPR, I will just put it towards the better MAF. I have the AFM PMS IV...newest that is compatible for my year.

Good to know I can do the fuel pump now. That way when time comes to do the blower, I am only dealing with the engine bay items, not projects all over the car.

Thanks again Rick!

 

[criticman]

What plugs should I go with? I know with the blower I need a range colder than stock, but not sure what that would be exactly. If anyone has a part # and/or specs, that would be great. I just want some copper plugs unless someone can justify otherwise.

 

[fiveohwblow]

Not that I know a whole lot about abs plastic, but I have been told by reputable people that abs will eventually heat cycle and break from boosted pressure. Now that thats said, I have the sc trim and it comes with abs after the supercharger and would reccommend getting rid of it asap. Along with not so attractive pieces to accompany was the inlet dryer hose looking setup. I love my AFM power pipe and it looks good. It does not get hot, EVEN AFTER REPEATED RUNS or cruising. It stays very cool as does my custom aluminum piping from SC to intake manifold.

As for the Vortech, I love it. I can get you a link to an sc trim kit for 1600 with a free Walbro 255lph fuel pump as well, and you will be satisfied. As for what was said about the s trim maybe more satisfying as to what it comes with, this might be true. I have purchased a BOV/bypass valve and done much since. I am currently running nine pounds from my sc and think its great.

+1 for the vote for the Vortech!

 

[fiveohwblow]

What plugs should I go with? I know with the blower I need a range colder than stock, but not sure what that would be exactly. If anyone has a part # and/or specs, that would be great. I just want some copper plugs unless someone can justify otherwise.

If you go to the power adder forum and read up on this everyone will tell you autolites. Just get the copper ones to match whatever heads you are running (I am assuming stock) which I thiiiiink....maybe are the 28's. I could be wrong. With only 5-6 lbs of boost you wont need a colder plug really. Its when you get into the larger boost you will need to go down a degree or two.

 

[criticman]

Thanks for the feedback on ABS material. That is something I have thought of, as well as it just caving in under suction after long enough use.

Other than making a custom piece, is there a place that sells an affordable replacement for that cheapo plastic outlet to the TB from the s/c? I notice that the S-Trim adds the solid pipe, but I am pretty set on the SC-Trim for now.

The power pipe will up the boost a bit, so hopefully I will see 8-9 psi, which would indeed call for different plugs. I will post on the power adder forum about the plugs when the install approaches.

 

[fiveohwblow]

Thanks for the feedback on ABS material. That is something I have thought of, as well as it just caving in under suction after long enough use.

Other than making a custom piece, is there a place that sells an affordable replacement for that cheapo plastic outlet to the TB from the s/c? I notice that the S-Trim adds the solid pipe, but I am pretty set on the SC-Trim for now.

The power pipe will up the boost a bit, so hopefully I will see 8-9 psi, which would indeed call for different plugs. I will post on the power adder forum about the plugs when the install approaches.

There are several different manufacturers that sell these such pipes, but I would suggest only going with C&L or from Vortech themselves just because they are reputable. If someone else has a good suggestion chime in. I only saw about 6.5 lbs on a good day with the stock pulley and power pipe, but no matter what you still want to run an Autolite plug. I swapped to the 2.87 pulley and see about 8.5-9lbs consistantly now. The reason most people say that they see around 1-2 lbs boost increase from the powerpipe is because most of the users run the s trim which is pullied for 8 lbs. With the lesser 5 lb pullied sc trim you will see max of 1 lb of boost. Hope this helps, and keep us updated!

 

[Kerpal]

The UPR ABS pipe is a near identical copy of the AFM unit, you just have to plug the fitting for the bypass valve if not using it.

That's the good thing about pretty much any UPR part....

Great thread so far, I have been considering the exact same blowers for my stock longblock...

Couple things I've been wondering... how much power is a larger intake manifold (i.e. Cobra?) worth over a stock mani when running bone stock heads and a SC? And how much power would long tube headers add vs. shorties?

I'm just wondering if I want to add these bolt-ons to the car or just put that money adside towords the SC...

Anyone know the noise levels of the blowers mentioned? I would like a little whine...

 

[vristang]

Thanks for the feedback on ABS material. That is something I have thought of, as well as it just caving in under suction after long enough use.

.

Not much of a risk with boost though?

ABS will brittle over time, but ABS is what alot of our interiors are made out of. Rubberized, but still ABS. The life span will not be easily noticeable to most of us, even in the engine bay, and pressurized. I believe my comp cams intake is ABS? Never tested/researched it though.
I would not be concerned with weathering of the material when making this decision, but there may be other factors to consider.

if nothing else...
subscribing

I am leaning toward the powerdyne because I do not want the whine.

 

[timewarped1972]

those comp cams box's are somekind of "polymer".....

i've been doing the supercharger research and like the idea of the powerdyne being quiet as well.....

i'd originally thought the main problem with the powerdyne's was belt breakage, but in my research i have found whats more a problem sometimes is bearing failure, and from what some of the reviews i read on-line said, powerdyne customer service is about worthless....

because theres no oil, they use a ceramic coated bearing ( artificial lubrication i guess) but eventually the ceramic wears off....

however, you can get the bearing rebuild kits off e bay for about 100 bucks......so i suppose thats a viable option if you would rather rebuild them yourself and save time and money and not dealing with powerdyne.

you know, i don't get it. why, couldn't someone design a supercharger that used like a timing chain design.......timing chains are strong and silent, you could make it so the case was sealed with seals and have it's own oil so no bearing problems......seems like it would work to me but......who knows.....

 

[Rick 91GT]

As far as plugs I like the the reg Autolites or the Autolite AR series plugs, the AFR165s take a 3924, with the blower I would go the 3923 gapped at .035"