Motor Out

KrazZ27 · Jan 20, 2012

So my motor is still being built and the car is at the body shop getting some touch ups. As I had said in my past threads I am trying to build a street/road racing car with a dart block and a 331 kit. The motor is currently out and I'm thinking I might as well change the k member out now then kick my self later. I have looked around and the prices are pretty close together between different brands. My question is what brand should i go with? I have heard nothing but good things about team Z and maximum motorsports. Does anyone have any first hand experience with either brand? Is their a better brand? I do understand that any kit i go with chances are I'm going to have to go with coil overs no problem. Thanks again

revhead347 · Jan 20, 2012

The Team Z is geared towards drag racing and the MM is geared towards better handling. The difference is in the control arm position. I put a QA1 in my car, and I think it was a waste of money. The stock k-member isn't that heavy at all, and it's a heck of a lot stronger. There can't be but a 10lb difference.

Kurt

Venom351R · Jan 22, 2012

Its a huge weight difference Kurt. My stock K member is sitting in my garage and its heavy as hell compared to my Team Z K member. With the Team Z K member, A arms and coil over kit ( Plus taking out the AC System) I dropped 110lbs off the front end.

Rick 91GT · Jan 22, 2012

With a road racing set-up in ind I would look at the MM piece and put a Steeda 5 link set-up on the rear.

revhead347 · Jan 22, 2012

Venom351R said:
Its a huge weight difference Kurt. My stock K member is sitting in my garage and its heavy as hell compared to my Team Z K member. With the Team Z K member, A arms and coil over kit ( Plus taking out the AC System) I dropped 110lbs off the front end.

Maybe with all that stuff put together, but I couldn't feel much difference between the stock K-member and the tubular.

Kurt

VibrantRedGT · Jan 23, 2012

The QA1 piece is ok. I had it and felt it might be a bit too thin. I've seen the TeamZ up close and that's a fantastic unit. I'd go either TeamZ or MM myself if I had to do it again.

revhead347 · Jan 23, 2012

I'm not happy with my QA1 at all. It looks weak as crap. Back when I bought it, that was just about the only K-member available. It's not like today where everyone and their mother offers a K-member.

Kurt

Venom351R · Jan 23, 2012

maybe that one you had kurt weighs a lot compared to the stock one but the Team Z one I have is quite light. And yes I meant with all that stuff put together thats why I listed everything. I didnt say the K member dropped 110lbs off the front but it was the major component that did drop a lot of weight.

revhead347 · Jan 23, 2012

Damn it. Now I want to go weigh my stock K-member. It's not the heaviness of the QA1, the stock one just doesn't weigh that much.

Kurt

VibrantRedGT · Jan 24, 2012

If I remember correctly there was an 18lb difference between the stock K-Member and QA1. I thought it was going to be a tremendous difference. In reality going to aluminum heads over cast iron is where the weight savings is at (saves 44lbs off the nose).

Here is my stock K.

Venom351R · Jan 25, 2012

I'll weigh mine today if I have to, its sitting in the garage. Its usually common to include the A arms when weighing the K member b/c pretty much all aftermarket ones wont accept the stock A arms, some do....but most dont.

Rick 91GT · Jan 25, 2012

I think my upr k-member (no motor mounts), rod end adj a arms weighs around 20 lbs

revhead347 · Jan 25, 2012

I was able to get my stock control arms back on the qa1 it was so much grinding it wasn't woth it.

Kurt

Venom351R · Jan 26, 2012

that must have been fun lol

VibrantRedGT · Jan 27, 2012

Yeah, I had to grind up a storm to get the stock A-Arms back on the QA1. Almost through in the towel and bought the tubular A-Arms. However after seeing how thin the QA1 K-Member was I didn't want their A-Arms.

revhead347 · Jan 28, 2012

Yeah, the F'd up part was that I really wanted to run tubular's and coil overs. I ended up dropping $120 on new X2 ball joints for my stock control arms just to find that I had to grind that crap out of the outer radius of the control arm to make them work with my brakes. By the time you throw in those X2s, you end up spending close to what the tubulars cost. It's just like my damn engine. I spent $200 on a main girdle for a stock block. Another $600 and I could have had a used aftermarket block that would have been better.

Kurt

Rick 91GT · Jan 31, 2012

My UPR K-Member (no motor mounts), radius end a arms and CC plates had a shipping weight of 32 lbs

Motor Out

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