Might be a stupid question but I have to pull my passenger side head off my 02 GT and am wondering if it is necessary to remove the camshaft to do so with the engine in the car?
The first step listed in the Ford service manual under cylinder head removal is:
Removal Both cylinder heads
1-Remove the engine. For additional information, refer to Engine in the Removal portion of this section.
I have read posts where it's been done. It does require removing the hydro-boost. Accessing the oil pan gasket requires the K-member to be lowered.
I really hate to say this, I would recommend removing the motor regardless.
Why?
The high mileage and overall low compression likely means rings.
It's so much easier to work on the engine stand. Accessing things like the oil pan gasket are a major PIA with the motor in the car. It's easy on the stand.
It's really not that much more work to remove the motor. I might could make a case that it is actually easier.
If you do a head job on the car and then find out the bottom end is gone, then the motor will have to come out anyway. This is double work.
Just my 0.02 worth based upon personal experience.
Burns, thank you for all of your inputs through this ordeal.
Unfortunately, I do not have access to a cherry picker and am not going to remove the engine.
My labor is free and I don't mind doing the work on the car. I realize it is a high mileage engine but up until this point it ran like a dream and I have a reasonable degree of confidence it will provide adequate service in the future.
Thankfully I don't have to remove the hydroboost because I am working on the passenger side of the engine.
Do I have to remove the camshaft? I'd rather not but will do it if necessary.
I would recommend removing the roller followers. This completely removes any Piston to value (PTV) issues. Regardless, it's good form to put the motor into "safe mode" before disassembly. I don't see why it would be necessary to remove the cams while the head is still on the car especially after the roller follows have been removed.
Summit racing sells a very affordable modular spring compressor. I have used one myself and found it very serviceable.
I know someone will post up and say that the roller followers can be removed with a screw driver. I personally don't like that option because of the risk of bending a valve stem or scratching something. After all, while this isn't a rocket, it is a precision machined piece of metal.
Remember to keep everything in the same order so that it can be re-installed in the same order and direction. Consider getting yourself a set of number stamps. Harbor Freight sells an affordable set.
It doesn't take alot to mark soft metal. Take your time.
When you did the leak down test, did you confirm that #2 was at TDC on the compression stroke? If at TCD on the exhaust stroke, it would be expected for the exhaust value to be open.
The timing chains shoes looked good.
Will be following your progress. I'm assuming this is your first rodeo. Good luck.
When my Son and I did our first motor swap, we said that either we would look back on the experience and say "job well done!". Or we would look back and say, "how could we have been so naive?".
Well there's 45k miles on the first motor (and still going). There are 30k miles on the 2nd one we did (2000 GT).
why do you need to take off the cylinder head? And you should take out the cam, from my personal experience.. it would be a good idea. My dad and i changed heads (both heads) on the car, while the motor was still in the car. It's not that hard and i did not need to remove anything for the brakes. even the hydroboost.