mustang wreck - body work question

S

Samburger

New Member

Jun 16, 2004

9

0

0

Jun 16, 2004

#1

• Jun 16, 2004

• #1

I got hit and crumpled the driverside fender, valence, bumper... I think it's time to start restoring this beast anyways. I was wondering if anyone had any experience and knew how much I could do without welding. Could I forinstance, replace the fender, headlight assembly, valence, and bumper without any welding?

the frame is not damaged, nor is the wheel well or anything to that extent.

Pictures:

 

6

67CoupeDriva

Member

Mar 15, 2004

165

0

16

South Carolina

Jun 16, 2004

#2

• Jun 16, 2004

• #2

Yikes - tough break man but I feel your pain, mine has been "love tapped" a few times over the years. All that stuff on the outside bolts on, so that's easy to do with no welding. The tricky part is what can't see - if the radiator support, inner fenders, or frame is damaged then you may be looking at some welding or at least some work by a frame or body shop to get it straight enough to bolt the outside stuff to.

 

steelhorse

Member

Jan 13, 2003

369

0

16

The warm end of the gutter....Texas baby!

Jun 16, 2004

#3

• Jun 16, 2004

• #3

No welding needed to replace fender, valance, bumper and headlight assembly, just some hand tools

 

S

Samburger

New Member

Jun 16, 2004

9

0

0

Jun 16, 2004

#4

• Jun 16, 2004

• #4

Sweetness!! alright,

okay, i didn't expect such good replies so quickly. I have another couple of quick questions for you guys. See how the door is so rusty? Would I need to buy a Shell or the entire thing, and I know i would need a door spring compressor to get that badboy off of there. how hard is it to do doors?

Radiator is fine, As far as I know all the supports and front end stuff is good to go. i'm a happy camper.

 

6

67CoupeDriva

Member

Mar 15, 2004

165

0

16

South Carolina

Jun 16, 2004

#5

• Jun 16, 2004

• #5

If the hinge is like my early '67 (and I think it is with a different bolk pattern) it just unbolts as an assembly from the pillar and the door without needing a spring compressor. Your call on the door, you have three options: fix what's there, skin the shell, or buy another door (used or repro). If you're wanting to bolt stuff on the last will be easiest, but one or two may be less expensive depending upon what you've got to work with.

 

steelhorse

Member

Jan 13, 2003

369

0

16

The warm end of the gutter....Texas baby!

Jun 16, 2004

#6

• Jun 16, 2004

• #6

what 67coupe said is right. From a bolt on stand point i'd get another door plus the rust could be in bottom of the door too (cant see from pic's) so you might want to take that into consideration. I've seen entire doors (used) at swap meets go for $150

 

S

Samburger

New Member

Jun 16, 2004

9

0

0

Jun 16, 2004

#7

• Jun 16, 2004

• #7

that's cool. I was just wondering what the difference was between a skin and a shell.

Should I prime these parts with anti-rust primer before installing?

 

302 coupe

Founding Member

Mar 2, 2000

1,952

3

36

Macon, Ga.

Jun 16, 2004

#8

• Jun 16, 2004

• #8

That's one sad looking pony you got there......

I'd replace the door if at all possible. If you get used parts, strip 'em to bare metal and use a self-etching primer, then go from there. If the frame and radiator support are good you're lucky, because everything else is easily replaced.

 

S

Samburger

New Member

Jun 16, 2004

9

0

0

Jun 16, 2004

#9

• Jun 16, 2004

• #9

i think i'll be buying aftermarket replacements... Will I need to strip those down to bare metal?

 

302 coupe

Founding Member

Mar 2, 2000

1,952

3

36

Macon, Ga.

Jun 16, 2004

#10

• Jun 16, 2004

• #10

aftermarket stuff normally comes with e-coat on it. If you strip it and apply a good quality primer, you can't go wrong. However, I just sanded mine and painted over it, haven't had any problems yet. I would rather find a used ford door than buy an aftermarket one, the aftermarket fenders/valence/etc. are ok, but sometimes take a little work to get them to line up properly. I've heard horror stories about doors though......

 

S

Samburger

New Member

Jun 16, 2004

9

0

0

Jun 16, 2004

#11

• Jun 16, 2004

• #11

thanks a lot for the help, guys. I'll look around for some used doors...

 

Platonic Solid

Founding Member

May 29, 2002

1,960

5

39

CT-USA

Jun 17, 2004

#12

• Jun 17, 2004

• #12

Don’t be afraid of welding. If you can afford the $500 - $600 it costs to get a small MIG welder then it would be worth your time to talk to your local welding supply store. It’s lots of fun, once you get comfortable with it. Or spend that same $500 - $600 and have someone else weld for you – but what’s the fun in that?

 

E

Elkyoned

New Member

Jun 11, 2004

1

0

0

Jun 17, 2004

#13

• Jun 17, 2004

• #13

When I replaced the door on my Daughters 65 coupe, I found that placing a floor jack under the door helps to hold it up when removing the bolts. Made replacing doors easier for me.

 

S

Samburger

New Member

Jun 16, 2004

9

0

0

Jun 17, 2004

#14

• Jun 17, 2004

• #14

wouldn't i need a cutting torch as well, Platonic?