Mustang5l5's Progress Thread - Archived Progress thread '08-'20.

[stanglx2002]

So I modeled up a trigger wheel. Still need to refine the inside details as I need to figure out how to mount it on a stock style harmonic balancer and to allow for it to be orientated correctly

The 36-1 wheel actually has 35 teeth correct? The 36th tooth is deleted? The keyway in the crank is at TDC or 180 out when it's pointed straight up correct?

Need to get s junk balancer to design up the mounting. Anyone have a totally junk, worthless stock balancer they can send me?

I have access to a laser cutter, so I'd rather design up my own trigger wheel vs trying to adapt a universal.

I am so jealous that you have access to a laser cutter.

This would have made the instrument cluster for the LCD screen easier and the still need to build paddle shifter mount for the steering wheel too.

 

[Mustang5L5]

I'll be doing the latter. Makes the most sense... For my situation at least.

I'm sorta leaning that way as well.

Was thinking of doing something like this with slots for adjustability.

 

[hoopty5.0]

I'm sorta leaning that way as well.

Was thinking of doing something like this with slots for adjustability.

Yes, that exactly. And because I goofed mounting my wheel by not clocking the gap right, Ill have to mount my sensor on the right side of the WP too, glad you posted that pic to show its possible.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Another pic of innovator's west setup for my own personal reference down the road.

I could just machine 1/8" off the pulley mounting face, and then sandwich the 36-1 wheel between the balancer and pulley. Hmm...things to think about here.

But if anyone has a junk balancer that's really only good for scrap they wouldn't mind giving to me, I'd appreciate it. It's amazing that people are trying to sell balancers with the rubber clearly falling out for $30 plus shipping on ebay.

 

[BlakeusMaximus]

Your doing some pretty cool stuff there man!

 

[Chuckman]

I didn't see it mentioned as to your material question, but it should be ferritic, so plain old mild steel will do.

 

[Mustang5L5]

I didn't see it mentioned as to your material question, but it should be ferritic, so plain old mild steel will do.

Thanks. That would have been a big oops. Looks like I need to track some down, but fortunately that stuff is cheap.

 

[Mustang5L5]

BTW,

After getting my refund today, my kit is back on the shelf for purchase at full MSRP of $1100 if anyone is interested.

https://www.cjponyparts.com/tmi-uph...ede-full-set-hatchback-1984-1986/p/U80MBDR7V/

 

[BlakeusMaximus]

Yeah, that red looks totally different than the set you received. What a deal!

 

[hoopty5.0]

Oof, yeah forgot. The wheel has to be ferrous for the magnet to read.

Rock auto has cheap balancers too. That’s where mine came from

 

[Mustang5L5]

I should probably just purchase the balancer I am going to run, and then tailor the wheel to fit it based of it's measurements. Still need to figure out orientation so I can cut the bolt holes into the wheel in the right spot to point the missing tooth where it needs to be.

Some more reading to do. no balancer in hand, so trigger wheel will be on hold for now. Not like the engine is out of the car yet....

 

[Mustang5L5]

Yeah, that red looks totally different than the set you received. What a deal!

Funny part is I submitted a review with this picture.

Notice how it's not on the site

 

[BlakeusMaximus]

Smooth move!

 

[hoopty5.0]

I should probably just purchase the balancer I am going to run, and then tailor the wheel to fit it based of it's measurements. Still need to figure out orientation so I can cut the bolt holes into the wheel in the right spot to point the missing tooth where it needs to be.

Some more reading to do. no balancer in hand, so trigger wheel will be on hold for now. Not like the engine is out of the car yet....

Don't fret too much on the missing tooth orientation, so long as it's behind (countercloskwise) the pickup at TDC. From there, you add an offset value into MS to make it read exact.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Ok. Balancer purchased. Will continue once I receive it in.

 

[Mustang5L5]

So more work on the intake today. Some careful bending of the vac ports and I got this to fit well

Next up. Punch that tap out. Mangled the hole a bit, so I just drilled/tap for next larger size. Done

Here's my vac layout. Pretty much same as stock. Ignore the chrome vac tree. Spare part I had and used as filler due to painting the one I will use.

Speaking of paint. A few test sprays. Still a bit more sanding and cleaning to do, but wanted to test the color. Looks oem to me

 

[BlakeusMaximus]

So more work on the intake today. Some careful bending of the vac ports and I got this to fit well

Next up. Punch that tap out. Mangled the hole a bit, so I just drilled/tap for next larger size. Done

Here's my vac layout. Pretty much same as stock. Ignore the chrome vac tree. Spare part I had and used as filler due to painting the one I will use.

Speaking of paint. A few test sprays. Still a bit more sanding and cleaning to do, but wanted to test the color. Looks oem to me

So ill probably have to 'T' off of my big port?

 

[BlakeusMaximus]

Looking good! Heres my totally "rare" intake that I be messing with.ATTACH=full]597819[/ATTACH]

 

[BlakeusMaximus]

 

[BlakeusMaximus]

On my intake, it looks like I need to run a hose from the big vacuum port to the PCV, and cap off the coolant ports. I should be able to use the longer, skinnier ports for the brake booster, FPR and cruise and cap off whatever lines are left? Looks like that's the only way mine intake will work. What are you thoughts? Your advice would be appreciated. Sorry about the previous comment , didn’t mean to put it there.