I needed 1107, not 1106.
Figures, there goes my chance of selling it off to recoup my costs.
Mustang5l5's Progress Thread - Archived Progress thread '08-'20.
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I needed 1107, not 1106.
Figures, there goes my chance of selling it off to recoup my costs.
Got the new inners installed. Simple job. I ordered a set of rack limiters while I'm here to deal with the wider tires.
Outers should be here tomorrow, I'll get those on. Should be ordering the max motorsports adapter shortly.
Next step is to remove the old rack. Should be fun. I need to rebleed the brakes first as I hate leaving things incomplete. Adapter should be here next week. Once I'm satisfied with pedal feel, I'll pull the old rack off.
Old sn95 inners
Outers should be here tomorrow, I'll get those on. Should be ordering the max motorsports adapter shortly.
Next step is to remove the old rack. Should be fun. I need to rebleed the brakes first as I hate leaving things incomplete. Adapter should be here next week. Once I'm satisfied with pedal feel, I'll pull the old rack off.
Old sn95 inners
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End links arrived. The moog pieces are quite nice. Some good heft to them, and grease fittings. The grease looks to be good quality too.
Forgot to add, the inners were from Mevotech. I've used them for suspension parts on my Infiniti and they were decent quality. They were much better than the endlinks cardone stuck on there. Machining was better. Better finish, better quality grease.
Rack is assembled. My rack limiters will be here Friday. At that point time to remove the old rack and try and match end link lenght.
Also, new PS hoses. Using new hoses along with a cooler. TBH not impressed with the high pressure line. Doesn't look oem and has a different "look". also doesn't feature the band that the factory clamp secures to to hold the hose in place.
Forgot to add, the inners were from Mevotech. I've used them for suspension parts on my Infiniti and they were decent quality. They were much better than the endlinks cardone stuck on there. Machining was better. Better finish, better quality grease.
Rack is assembled. My rack limiters will be here Friday. At that point time to remove the old rack and try and match end link lenght.
Also, new PS hoses. Using new hoses along with a cooler. TBH not impressed with the high pressure line. Doesn't look oem and has a different "look". also doesn't feature the band that the factory clamp secures to to hold the hose in place.
Shakerhood
20+ Year Stangneter 
When I did my Cobra Rack I had the same idea to buy new hoses and they sent me those same Gates ones, after getting the rack installed I went in the house for the night and when I went back to the garage the next day only to find the pressure line leaking from the nut, the Ford service manual said if it leaks from the nut the hose is bad, so I dug my original out of the trash and installed it, I was pissed cause I had to undo everything to slide the rack forward to remove that damn hose, I also recall a handful of other people on the forums having that same hose leak from the nut on them too. I also went with Proforged Inner and Outer Tie Rods, everything I shopped for looked cheap and had a 1 year warranty, the Proforged is beefy and had a helluva good warranty.End links arrived. The moog pieces are quite nice. Some good heft to them, and grease fittings. The grease looks to be good quality too.
Forgot to add, the inners were from Mevotech. I've used them for suspension parts on my Infiniti and they were decent quality. They were much better than the endlinks cardone stuck on there. Machining was better. Better finish, better quality grease.
Rack is assembled. My rack limiters will be here Friday. At that point time to remove the old rack and try and match end link lenght.
Also, new PS hoses. Using new hoses along with a cooler. TBH not impressed with the high pressure line. Doesn't look oem and has a different "look". also doesn't feature the band that the factory clamp secures to to hold the hose in place.
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I'd install that rack, but looks rather expensive and high maintanence
Nevermind. Opened the box and saw it's not as big as I thought. Should work nicely.
Next week, I'll see if I can design up some mounts for it depending on what sort of bolt on solutions exist on the core.
Max motorsports steering adapter is ordered.
As for the PS hoses, I'll make a decision when the time comes.
Next week, I'll see if I can design up some mounts for it depending on what sort of bolt on solutions exist on the core.
Max motorsports steering adapter is ordered.
As for the PS hoses, I'll make a decision when the time comes.
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Rack limiters showed up. Package comes with 6, but ininstalled one per side for now. Internet research seems to suggest 1 per side for 17x8 and two for 17x9. The single limiter that came with the rack was as thick as two, so it makes sense
Decided I should prob order aftermarket steering rack bushings while I'm here. Makes sense.
Stuff is in the mail. Stay tuned.
Decided I should prob order aftermarket steering rack bushings while I'm here. Makes sense.
Stuff is in the mail. Stay tuned.
I only got the limiters for one side with it. So I just tossed it and ordered the kit.
Current rack on car has no limiters. Rub at extreme full lock
Current rack on car has no limiters. Rub at extreme full lock
These cleaned up pretty well. Removed all the old paint, degreaser, and some fresh black paint.
Time to work on the old Mach 1 fronts now. Just gonna paint them black like original
Time to work on the old Mach 1 fronts now. Just gonna paint them black like original
Front ones didn't come out so well. Not even gonna bother posting pics of them. Gonna list them all on the bay and see what I get.
Going to put the funds towards a set of Aluminum heads. I really need to do something about HP. I've got a nice suspension, good brakes, and soon to be great steering on a stockish 5.0. I really need to change gears and focus on Horsepower soon.
Gonna CL my GT-40P heads as well to raise funds.
Probably going to go with this combo. (have everything but the heads). Going to go on a stock 97K mile bottom end.
TFS TW heads 170 (need to buy)
TFS Stage 1 cam
Cobra Intake (real OEM Ford) with port-matched lower
65mm TB, 70mm SN95 MAF
Crane 1993 Cobra 1.72 RR's
Shorty headers, high flow H-pipe, Flowmasters
U/D pullies, e-fan, yank the smog pump off
Swap 3.73's to 3.27's.
Figuring that should get me 300+ crank HP? I would like to go with boost at some point. I love the idea of a root-style blower whine on a Fox, but could easily go with a Vortech as well. Just need to see if my combo is really blower friendly or if I should change anything.
Going to put the funds towards a set of Aluminum heads. I really need to do something about HP. I've got a nice suspension, good brakes, and soon to be great steering on a stockish 5.0. I really need to change gears and focus on Horsepower soon.
Gonna CL my GT-40P heads as well to raise funds.
Probably going to go with this combo. (have everything but the heads). Going to go on a stock 97K mile bottom end.
TFS TW heads 170 (need to buy)
TFS Stage 1 cam
Cobra Intake (real OEM Ford) with port-matched lower
65mm TB, 70mm SN95 MAF
Crane 1993 Cobra 1.72 RR's
Shorty headers, high flow H-pipe, Flowmasters
U/D pullies, e-fan, yank the smog pump off
Swap 3.73's to 3.27's.
Figuring that should get me 300+ crank HP? I would like to go with boost at some point. I love the idea of a root-style blower whine on a Fox, but could easily go with a Vortech as well. Just need to see if my combo is really blower friendly or if I should change anything.
Good call on the pulleys. I have them now, so I just listed them as staying. I'm putting A/C back on, so It just makes sense to go back to stock to give me a safety factor with the cooling system.
Forgot about the RR's not working on the TFS heads (going 170's), so I guess that's one more item I can toss on the Ebay.
I really should consider LT's, so i'll throw that idea around. I want to run cats (the smell bugs me, and trying to be somewhat considerate of neighbors and my inspection guy who already overlooks so much.
Boost won't be til much later, and will probably be 5 psi or so. I've always wanted a blower car since I bought this car 20 years ago.
Anyone local in MA want some GT40P's?
Forgot about the RR's not working on the TFS heads (going 170's), so I guess that's one more item I can toss on the Ebay.
I really should consider LT's, so i'll throw that idea around. I want to run cats (the smell bugs me, and trying to be somewhat considerate of neighbors and my inspection guy who already overlooks so much.
Boost won't be til much later, and will probably be 5 psi or so. I've always wanted a blower car since I bought this car 20 years ago.
Anyone local in MA want some GT40P's?
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Changed that to copper 3-core years ago when they were cheap and available. Cooling is not an issue at all even with the underdrives on a hot 95* day.
I don't even think anyone makes a copper 3-core for the mustang anymore.
I don't even think anyone makes a copper 3-core for the mustang anymore.
I recall looking at thermal graphs of 3-core radiators. A lot more cold areas. Some are better than others. 2-core though... More consistent heat dissipation.
Back to the rack. Bushings came in. Very firm compared to what came with rack
I know I said I wouldn't do this, but i bought an OEM cooler and returned the one I got from Amazon.
I just prefer oem style installation, and even though this was $100, in my mind it's "done right" so to speak.
Just waiting on MM rack adapter. It's ordered, paid for, just not shipped yet. Last component I need before I start this install
Total cost so far? $590
What I need now....is time.
I just prefer oem style installation, and even though this was $100, in my mind it's "done right" so to speak.
Just waiting on MM rack adapter. It's ordered, paid for, just not shipped yet. Last component I need before I start this install
Total cost so far? $590
What I need now....is time.
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Found my radiator model.
GDI 433138
$129 at pep boys sounds about right...back in the day.
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2001/10/radiator/
GDI 433138
$129 at pep boys sounds about right...back in the day.
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2001/10/radiator/
Listed a bunch of stuff on eBay and going through my hoards of mustang parts. Any reason to keep these? Two sets of 15. No idea where the singles went.
Sitting in oil for 10 years. Any reason to save them? I certainly have no desire to install used lifters.
Sitting in oil for 10 years. Any reason to save them? I certainly have no desire to install used lifters.
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Welp, had to email Max Motorsports and see exactly where the steering shaft is. Ordered it a while ago and got the CC bill and paid it , and I see it still hasn't shipped yet. So need to find out where it is.
So I continue to wait because I don't want to pull the car apart and then have it sit there without any sort of idea when i'll have a steering shaft.
So this sits...
So I continue to wait because I don't want to pull the car apart and then have it sit there without any sort of idea when i'll have a steering shaft.
So this sits...
«1992 Mustang Service Manual Table of Contents»
«Group 11: STEERING SYSTEM»
«Section 11-00: Steering System--Service»
«TESTING»
Purging Power Steering System of Air
Air trapped in the power steering system, which causes a whine or moan-type noise, can be removed by using a power steering pump air evacuator assembly (devac tool). Fabricate as shown, or use Rotunda Vacuum Tester 021-00014 or equivalent.
CAUTION:
Under no circumstances should engine vacuum be used.
1. Check and fill the pump reservoir with Premium Power Steering Fluid E6AZ-19582-AA (ESW-M2C33-F) or equivalent to the COLD FULL mark on pump dipstick.
2. Remove engine ignition coil wire and raise front wheels off floor. Refer to «Section 00-02».
3. Crank engine with starter motor, and check fluid level. Do not turn steering wheel at this time.
4. Fill pump reservoir to COLD FULL mark on dipstick. Crank engine with starter motor while cycling steering wheel lock-to-lock. Check fluid level.
5. Tightly insert the rubber stopper of the air evacuator assembly into pump reservoir fill neck. Install ignition coil wire.
6. Apply 51 kPa (15 in-Hg) maximum vacuum on pump reservoir for a minimum of three minutes with the engine idling. As air purges from system, vacuum will fall off. Maintain adequate vacuum with vacuum source.
7. Release vacuum and remove vacuum source. Fill reservoir to COLD FULL mark.
8. With engine idling, apply 51 kPa (15 in-Hg.) vacuum to pump reservoir. Slowly cycle the steering wheel from lock-to-lock every 30 seconds for approximately five minutes. Do not hold steering wheel on stops while cycling. Maintain adequate vacuum with vacuum source as the air purges.
9. Release vacuum and remove vacuum equipment. Add additional fluid if necessary. Install dipstick.
10. Start engine and cycle steering wheel. Check for oil leaks at all connections. In severe cases of aeration, it may be necessary to repeat Steps 5 through 9.
«Group 11: STEERING SYSTEM»
«Section 11-00: Steering System--Service»
«TESTING»
Purging Power Steering System of Air
Air trapped in the power steering system, which causes a whine or moan-type noise, can be removed by using a power steering pump air evacuator assembly (devac tool). Fabricate as shown, or use Rotunda Vacuum Tester 021-00014 or equivalent.
CAUTION:
Under no circumstances should engine vacuum be used.
1. Check and fill the pump reservoir with Premium Power Steering Fluid E6AZ-19582-AA (ESW-M2C33-F) or equivalent to the COLD FULL mark on pump dipstick.
2. Remove engine ignition coil wire and raise front wheels off floor. Refer to «Section 00-02».
3. Crank engine with starter motor, and check fluid level. Do not turn steering wheel at this time.
4. Fill pump reservoir to COLD FULL mark on dipstick. Crank engine with starter motor while cycling steering wheel lock-to-lock. Check fluid level.
5. Tightly insert the rubber stopper of the air evacuator assembly into pump reservoir fill neck. Install ignition coil wire.
6. Apply 51 kPa (15 in-Hg) maximum vacuum on pump reservoir for a minimum of three minutes with the engine idling. As air purges from system, vacuum will fall off. Maintain adequate vacuum with vacuum source.
7. Release vacuum and remove vacuum source. Fill reservoir to COLD FULL mark.
8. With engine idling, apply 51 kPa (15 in-Hg.) vacuum to pump reservoir. Slowly cycle the steering wheel from lock-to-lock every 30 seconds for approximately five minutes. Do not hold steering wheel on stops while cycling. Maintain adequate vacuum with vacuum source as the air purges.
9. Release vacuum and remove vacuum equipment. Add additional fluid if necessary. Install dipstick.
10. Start engine and cycle steering wheel. Check for oil leaks at all connections. In severe cases of aeration, it may be necessary to repeat Steps 5 through 9.
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