Build Thread My 1986 T-top Build - Lasting Memories

Davedacarpainter · Mar 3, 2016

FoxMustangLvr said:
@Davedacarpainter
I forget, what is the intended purpose/use of your Mustang? Street car, street strip? Do you want straight line or cornering ability? Don't lose site of what your goal is for the car. Builds are hard enough and expensive to complete, when you get side tracked it makes something that's already difficult even more so.

Stangnet has a lot of 1/4 mile street strip and dedicated drag car junkies. That's their thing and that's cool. For me, I like to not cringe anymore when I see an unavoidable bump in the road so I want a combination of ride quality, handling in turns, and reliability. I'll be cruising a lot with my 7 y/o son and 3 y/o twin daughters so I'm motivated to keep this thing off the side of the road.

One more thing, I think 275's fill out a fox pretty dang well and proportionately too. Here's a nice view of @bird_dog0347 coupe with 275's .

Believe man, I understand. I get excited about things and will ask questions that could seem I've lost my mind.
Really, I'm fishing out details that I could use to modify for what I desire.
No doubt this will be a daily driver. I won't fully tub it and put 335's in it, or probably even 315's. I would be stinking thrilled with 295's though.
I was a teenager back in the seventies and there was a crazy promod thing going on back then. I've always been fond of that look. Big fan of Bob Glidden at the time.
So, though a daily, I want it a little meaty in the rear. No skinnies on the front though. I want to be able to stop.
Not too nuts, just want to keep two nuts for the rear.

FoxMustangLvr · Mar 3, 2016

I figure if I can't talk you out of it then you must really want it. Now is the time to do it if you decide it's right for your build. Just make sure the wheel selection and fitment is there for you. Are you 5 lug? Planning on it?

RaggedGT · Mar 3, 2016

I absolutely mean you no ill will. Nor do I wish to overly complicate your build or prolong it for a large amount of time. That being said-I know I kinda got the ball rolling on this subject . In my defense ,the car was/is stripped down to a shell, seemed like an opertune time for modification before you lay the gorgeous paint to it. But it is your Doby, you are the one doing all the work and spending the money and What ever you choose to do or not do-im sure it will still turn out great

stykthyn · Mar 3, 2016

What's the big deal? At this point the car is apart and would literally be the best time to do it. If be decides its too much of a hassle them so what? If he runs it so he can run a fat tire on a daily then that's fantastic too.

RacEoHolic330 · Mar 3, 2016

madmike1157 said:
I really like your car, and I have big respect for the irs swaps. How did you get that much tire in there, I thought Scott @RacEoHolic330 had to go smaller?

Say what you will,..all you wheel tub restricted mustangers with your girly man 275's.....Nothing says " I gotta pair" quite like a set of 315's.

Whew,....I could barely get the tire in the whole picture.

I've got a set of little 275's back there as well.

Davedacarpainter · Mar 3, 2016

I have switched to 5 lug.
I measured the tub as it sits right now, I have twelve inches+ of clearance between the shock mount and the outer tub.
I was thinking of .5" clearance on both sides. that leaves 11" for wheel and tire. So, 25.6 x 11 gives me 281 roughly doing nothing else.
Doing nothing I can easily run 275's tucked, maybe 285's with a panhard bar.
I will install a MM panhard bar close to the last thing on the build. I think I understand for measuring purposes I will want the full weight on the car. So that upgrade isn't in question.
I can beat the upper tubs with an air hammer at work when I take it there to paint it. That part might take a half an hour.
I just need to decide if I want to go ahead and mini tub it so I could put in a 295 or realistically a 305.
That's where I stand now.
I'm looking at the kits that change out the perch so I could use coilover springs, but as mentioned, that could be more drag oriented, I just don't know if that would handle a curvy road and a heavy foot too. They were primarily made for the straight line, that's a clue to me.
Also looking at coil overs, this is the more likely event if I decide to mini tub.
Now, with coilovers, there will be a slight inboard angle between the upper and lower shock mounts. Using the stock shock location, plus a little bracketry to keep the coilover off of the axle tubes. I was thinking that this might necessitate at least one hiem joint on the coilover to prevent some of the stresses of the angle. I might be wrong.
I already welded brackets on the tubes for coilovers at a later date, but, if I'm not mistaken, this would require an upper mount that would require the removal of the spare tire tub. I don't know if I want to do that at this point.
Sooooo.....any help here will be appreciated. If you read something above that I'm incorrect about, please correct me. I'm learning about this and am a neophyte, not an expert.

Davedacarpainter · Mar 3, 2016

RacEoHolic330 said:
I've got a set of little 275's back there as well.

Jeez you have a pretty butt.

Davedacarpainter · Mar 3, 2016

RaggedGT said:
Are you taking time off from Doby?
lol

Nah man, been studying the mini tub idea that some evil person planted there!
Actually, I got the rest of the afternoon off from work, the body men are having to put all the cars I painted back together, so they're not getting me any new work. Tomorrow I will be busy as heck, today, not so much.
So, beings that my wife is still working, the kids are at school, I would assume you know what I might be doing.
That's right, drinking beer and working on Doby!
I'm going out to do more welding and grinding on the engine bay. If I actually accomplish something today, I will post pictures.

Davedacarpainter · Mar 3, 2016

smokin joe said:
Your car is really coming along nicely. I can't wait to see it all painted up.

Thanks brother, got to finish the engine bay smoothing. Then I will start blocking out the body for its last (hopefully) paint job. Maybe three weeks away from paint. I started that other thread to research the mini tub idea. it's looking like I might do it, still no guarantees. But, DAMN, 305's would look nice on Doby.

CarMichael Angelo · Mar 3, 2016

RacEoHolic330 said:
I've got a set of little 275's back there as well.

Very well ,your weaniness..Too bad they don't make a pill for that, cause both you, and @FoxMustangLvr need it.
They'd call it tire viagra,...or tyagra.
A mild halucigen. You'd take it right before looking at your rear tires to give them the appearance of the girth, and manliness that only a set of 315's can convey.
* Seek medical help for any hallucination lasting more than 4 hours.

CarMichael Angelo · Mar 3, 2016

Davedacarpainter said:
I have switched to 5 lug.
I measured the tub as it sits right now, I have twelve inches+ of clearance between the shock mount and the outer tub.
I was thinking of .5" clearance on both sides. that leaves 11" for wheel and tire. So, 25.6 x 11 gives me 281 roughly doing nothing else.
Doing nothing I can easily run 275's tucked, maybe 285's with a panhard bar.
I will install a MM panhard bar close to the last thing on the build. I think I understand for measuring purposes I will want the full weight on the car. So that upgrade isn't in question.
I can beat the upper tubs with an air hammer at work when I take it there to paint it. That part might take a half an hour.
I just need to decide if I want to go ahead and mini tub it so I could put in a 295 or realistically a 305.
That's where I stand now.
I'm looking at the kits that change out the perch so I could use coilover springs, but as mentioned, that could be more drag oriented, I just don't know if that would handle a curvy road and a heavy foot too. They were primarily made for the straight line, that's a clue to me.
Also looking at coil overs, this is the more likely event if I decide to mini tub.
Now, with coilovers, there will be a slight inboard angle between the upper and lower shock mounts. Using the stock shock location, plus a little bracketry to keep the coilover off of the axle tubes. I was thinking that this might necessitate at least one hiem joint on the coilover to prevent some of the stresses of the angle. I might be wrong.
I already welded brackets on the tubes for coilovers at a later date, but, if I'm not mistaken, this would require an upper mount that would require the removal of the spare tire tub. I don't know if I want to do that at this point.
Sooooo.....any help here will be appreciated. If you read something above that I'm incorrect about, please correct me. I'm learning about this and am a neophyte, not an expert.

Jeezus,..you are so helping me when it comes time for paint.....maybe even coming here and doin it....
The coil over itself has a bushed end that pivots much like a heim, so you do not need any extra shear. Tilting the bottom mount will keep the end in its proper geometry. Think of it this way using the existing lower shock mount......that thing has a stud that goes through the lower CA mount, with a nut on the other side, and a little tang that locates so that it won't spin.
Use that. Cut, and Grind off the existing stud, and replace that with a longer bolt. Add a 3/4" spacer between the lca' mount, and the new, modified shock mount. Leave it this way for now.

The upper mount will move inboard with the sectioned tub, only restricted by the frame rail w/regard to how far you can go over. Again, this is between 1-1.250 inches. If you make a "T" upper shock mount, with a threaded stud sticking up, then you can use the existing hole with stock bushings to locate the upper.

Now,......you gotta stop the upper and lower mounts from wanting to spin.
The bottom is easy.... If it's a permanent thing, you just weld the shock mount at the angle that it assumes when you install a mocked up version of the assembly. If you want the ability to take it back apart,...then you fab up a locating tang similar to the factory version,...and do that instead.

As for the top,.....The cross portion of the "T" could be made of thick wall .750 tubing, and you can tap and thread one end of the T. Then, from the inside of the shock mount, make a hole for a bolt that threads into that to lock the upper in the right direction as well.

* this concludes the step by step written version of this tutorial,....for an actual video of the process,....send 149.00 to:
Madmike Fabrications
1319 Do you want me to do it for you Lane.
Don't make me Smack You, Alabama 35244

Or be one of the first callers in the next 5 minutes (800) Stop-Themadness

Operators are standing by.

Please allow 6-8 weeks for delivery.

If you use a more traditional height adjustable C/O mount that is welded to the axle tube,...( that's is what I'm thinking you said you had already done) then you will be inboard of the frame rail, and you will have to fabricate an upper mount similar probably to the original Guy's thread that I wallpapered with pictures of my junk. That method will require some holes be cut, or a tunnel cut into the spare wheel tub for the upper shock mount to go into. ( Thought we also talked about not wanting to do that)?

I also thought you've all but talked yourself out of doing anything...

I still will expect your help with the paint, even if you don't do jack to the tubs.

Davedacarpainter · Mar 3, 2016

Here's one little issue I'm dealing with in putting the Scott Rod Fab parts in, they went and made the stupid things straight when ford obviously hasn't a clue what a straight line is! Got to love those frame rails, they tweak inwards as they go towards the front. Got the right side all welded and ground down, needs mud now.

Davedacarpainter · Mar 3, 2016

Okay, got the panel trimmed. I'll have to push it around as I tack it on the car to make the frame rail look "straight" as I can.

awilli93coupe · Mar 3, 2016

@madmike1157 have you showed him your coilover set up. That should do pretty damn good for what he is wanting

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Davedacarpainter · Mar 3, 2016

Ok, got the left panel all fitted. Cut out all the old stuff and ground around where I'll weld.
You'll notice I got the brake master cylinder out as well. I am going to put a semi gloss POR 15 on it, that should match the semi gloss black that we painted the block.

Davedacarpainter · Mar 3, 2016

madmike1157 said:
Jeezus,..you are so helping me when it comes time for paint.....maybe even coming here and doin it....
The coil over itself has a bushed end that pivots much like a heim, so you do not need any extra shear. Tilting the bottom mount will keep the end in its proper geometry. Think of it this way using the existing lower shock mount......that thing has a stud that goes through the lower CA mount, with a nut on the other side, and a little tang that locates so that it won't spin.
Use that. Cut, and Grind off the existing stud, and replace that with a longer bolt. Add a 3/4" spacer between the lca' mount, and the new, modified shock mount. Leave it this way for now.

The upper mount will move inboard with the sectioned tub, only restricted by the frame rail w/regard to how far you can go over. Again, this is between 1-1.250 inches. If you make a "T" upper shock mount, with a threaded stud sticking up, then you can use the existing hole with stock bushings to locate the upper.

Now,......you gotta stop the upper and lower mounts from wanting to spin.
The bottom is easy.... If it's a permanent thing, you just weld the shock mount at the angle that it assumes when you install a mocked up version of the assembly. If you want the ability to take it back apart,...then you fab up a locating tang similar to the factory version,...and do that instead.

As for the top,.....The cross portion of the "T" could be made of thick wall .750 tubing, and you can tap and thread one end of the T. Then, from the inside of the shock mount, make a hole for a bolt that threads into that to lock the upper in the right direction as well.

* this concludes the step by step written version of this tutorial,....for an actual video of the process,....send 149.00 to:
Madmike Fabrications
1319 Do you want me to do it for you Lane.
Don't make me Smack You, Alabama 35244

Or be one of the first callers in the next 5 minutes (800) Stop-Themadness

Operators are standing by.

Please allow 6-8 weeks for delivery.

If you use a more traditional height adjustable C/O mount that is welded to the axle tube,...( that's is what I'm thinking you said you had already done) then you will be inboard of the frame rail, and you will have to fabricate an upper mount similar probably to the original Guy's thread that I wallpapered with pictures of my junk. That method will require some holes be cut, or a tunnel cut into the spare wheel tub for the upper shock mount to go into. ( Thought we also talked about not wanting to do that)?

I also thought you've all but talked yourself out of doing anything...

I still will expect your help with the paint, even if you don't do jack to the tubs.

First off Mike, what's this about wallpapering that guy's thread with pictures of your junk? I think that's illegal and will get you put on some type of offenders list.

awilli93coupe · Mar 3, 2016

Davedacarpainter said:
First off Mike, what's this about wallpapering that guy's thread with pictures of your junk? I think that's illegal and will get you put on some type of offenders list.

I asked for it hahaha

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Davedacarpainter · Mar 3, 2016

madmike1157 said:
Jeezus,..you are so helping me when it comes time for paint.....maybe even coming here and doin it....
The coil over itself has a bushed end that pivots much like a heim, so you do not need any extra shear. Tilting the bottom mount will keep the end in its proper geometry. Think of it this way using the existing lower shock mount......that thing has a stud that goes through the lower CA mount, with a nut on the other side, and a little tang that locates so that it won't spin.
Use that. Cut, and Grind off the existing stud, and replace that with a longer bolt. Add a 3/4" spacer between the lca' mount, and the new, modified shock mount. Leave it this way for now.

The upper mount will move inboard with the sectioned tub, only restricted by the frame rail w/regard to how far you can go over. Again, this is between 1-1.250 inches. If you make a "T" upper shock mount, with a threaded stud sticking up, then you can use the existing hole with stock bushings to locate the upper.

Now,......you gotta stop the upper and lower mounts from wanting to spin.
The bottom is easy.... If it's a permanent thing, you just weld the shock mount at the angle that it assumes when you install a mocked up version of the assembly. If you want the ability to take it back apart,...then you fab up a locating tang similar to the factory version,...and do that instead.

As for the top,.....The cross portion of the "T" could be made of thick wall .750 tubing, and you can tap and thread one end of the T. Then, from the inside of the shock mount, make a hole for a bolt that threads into that to lock the upper in the right direction as well.

* this concludes the step by step written version of this tutorial,....for an actual video of the process,....send 149.00 to:
Madmike Fabrications
1319 Do you want me to do it for you Lane.
Don't make me Smack You, Alabama 35244

Or be one of the first callers in the next 5 minutes (800) Stop-Themadness

Operators are standing by.

Please allow 6-8 weeks for delivery.

If you use a more traditional height adjustable C/O mount that is welded to the axle tube,...( that's is what I'm thinking you said you had already done) then you will be inboard of the frame rail, and you will have to fabricate an upper mount similar probably to the original Guy's thread that I wallpapered with pictures of my junk. That method will require some holes be cut, or a tunnel cut into the spare wheel tub for the upper shock mount to go into. ( Thought we also talked about not wanting to do that)?

I also thought you've all but talked yourself out of doing anything...

I still will expect your help with the paint, even if you don't do jack to the tubs.

I said I've talked myself out of doing it right now....30 days from now is a whole different me.

awilli93coupe · Mar 3, 2016

Davedacarpainter said:
I said I've talked myself out of doing it right now....30 days from now is a whole different me.

Do what you want, that's all that matters

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

mikestang63 · Mar 3, 2016

Davedacarpainter said:
I may have some strongly anal tendencies Mike.
I will have to seam seal around the rear wheel wells. I can see the garage floor through the seam back there.
Besides, thirty years from now when my son decides he wants to restore this vehicle I want him to have to do the same thing. He should have never peed all over me when I changed his diaper as a baby.

Oh you poor newb......

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