Build Thread My 1986 T-top Build - Lasting Memories
- Thread starter Davedacarpainter
- Start date
I can hear the metal resonating from here . YIKES .Scotrod has the answer to your seat, interior issue- look how cool that is
Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
Street car? Then no to that "metal work interior". Insulation/sound deading isn't going to be enough for my tastes. Like toolow91 stated above...it's going to resonate/increase the db's,vibrate,etc more than I would want to listen to on a 50 mile cruise. That's just my thoughts and opinion.
And as far as the tub job goes...out of league. I've never done it. I havent ever really looked into it either, other than the few postings I've seen on here and on the corral. Personally I wouldn't do it for a 90% street car that would see plenty of twists and turns. Straightline performance and "easy" street miles it would be great. Relocating the springs,frame notching,interior reconfiguring,and the other "issues" is more than I've done. I'm a "bolt it in/on" guy and that's about it lol. But those wheel/tire combos will look sick! I absolutely love that look.
And as far as the tub job goes...out of league. I've never done it. I havent ever really looked into it either, other than the few postings I've seen on here and on the corral. Personally I wouldn't do it for a 90% street car that would see plenty of twists and turns. Straightline performance and "easy" street miles it would be great. Relocating the springs,frame notching,interior reconfiguring,and the other "issues" is more than I've done. I'm a "bolt it in/on" guy and that's about it lol. But those wheel/tire combos will look sick! I absolutely love that look.
My car has Enough resonance as it is with all the factory stuff in it still . That looks like a big headache on a streeter .That's what Sound Deadining/insulation is for my internet Forumn friend
Lol
Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
I would agree on the metal interior panels, they look cool, but...I don't think so.
I think I'm channeling @madmike1157 with the fabrication thing. It would almost seem fun to me to try the 335's.
Thinking about 335's, how about the control arms? This might be my stopping point on this idea.
I'm going to do some measuring tonight to see what I have there for clearance. Even with aftermarket tube ca's with no spring perch, I'm not sure it would fit.
Relocating the torque box would be beyond even my crazy speculation.
I have to stop looking at that Viper we have in the shop! Jeez!
I'm going to do some measuring tonight to see what I have there for clearance. Even with aftermarket tube ca's with no spring perch, I'm not sure it would fit.
Relocating the torque box would be beyond even my crazy speculation.
I have to stop looking at that Viper we have in the shop! Jeez!
This is what I do when I read your posts.
I have thousands of pictures. Everytime you, or somebody else brings up something I was already thinking, I start looking for the pic to illustrate my point.
I wondered the same thing about the LCA with regard to tire contact if you continue the quest for a larger tire. The ability of the wheel tub to actually accommodate the tire is the lesser of the two evils. What you are going to have to do, and sacrifice with regard to possible suspension contact, and how bad you're gonna have to hack up the rear seat is another.
This is what the rear looks like after it was completely modified and the rear C/O mounts fabricated with the stand off that was needed to accomodate the 1.25" inboard straight up mounting.
Before it got to that, and right after narrowing, bolted a tire up to the axle flange.
There looks to be plenty of room,...except.
Your rear has been narrowed an additional 1.750". ( I think you said 2.5" on EACH SIDE, this represents a 1"-1.250" cut)
This is a 10.5" wheel with a 315 mounted. I'm not sure of the B/Sing, it is probably around 6.5, but it's what ever the stock SN95 BS is, as they are OTS replacements.
If I did read correctly, and you have narrowed the rear that much, You are gonna have to go with a custom BS wheel to push the thing positive. (something like a 4-4.5 BS on a 10.5-11" wide wheel)
Most guys that commit to a minitub buy the wheel first, then cut open the tubs to allow the tires to sit where you want them, and then measure inside wheel mating surface to mating surface, and modify the rear, and axles to allow for that. If you have went about that in any other order, you're gonna have to custom order your wheels.
Yeah, my brother helped throw the cart before the mule on that one.This is what I do when I read your posts.
I have thousands of pictures. Everytime you, or somebody else brings up something I was already thinking, I start looking for the pic to illustrate my point.
I wondered the same thing about the LCA with regard to tire contact if you continue the quest for a larger tire. The ability of the wheel tub to actually accommodate the tire is the lesser of the two evils. What you are going to have to do, and sacrifice with regard to possible suspension contact, and how bad you're gonna have to hack up the rear seat is another.
This is what the rear looks like after it was completely modified and the rear C/O mounts fabricated with the stand off that was needed to accomodate the 1.25" inboard straight up mounting.
Before it got to that, and right after narrowing, bolted a tire up to the axle flange.
There looks to be plenty of room,...except.
Your rear has been narrowed an additional 1.750". ( I think you said 2.5" on EACH SIDE, this represents a 1"-1.250" cut)
This is a 10.5" wheel with a 315 mounted. I'm not sure of the B/Sing, it is probably around 6.5, but it's what ever the stock SN95 BS is, as they are OTS replacements.
If I did read correctly, and you have narrowed the rear that much, You are gonna have to go with a custom BS wheel to push the thing positive. (something like a 4-4.5 BS on a 10.5-11" wide wheel)
Most guys that commit to a minitub buy the wheel first, then cut open the tubs to allow the tires to sit where you want them, and then measure inside wheel mating surface to mating surface, and modify the rear, and axles to allow for that. If you have went about that in any other order, you're gonna have to custom order your wheels.
Billet specialties sells there 17" wheels with varying degrees of backspacing. At most I'll believe I will have to do is minor shimming of the wheel. The idea isn't totally thoughtless though. A lot of measuring went into the decision.
Always appreciate your replies Mike, helps me think through things.
As long as it was your intent to buy a wheel where you could spec the back spacing, then it won't matter. You will in effect always be able to insure clearance between the tire and the LCA if all of that is/was taken into consideration.
Now,....what you didn't consider was.......
I wonder if disc brakes will affect my overall length when I convert?
.
I believe I will need to notch the frame even for the 1.25" tubbing. The back of the shock mount is exactly one inch from the frame. I want to insure adequate clearance for the coil overs.As long as it was your intent to buy a wheel where you could spec the back spacing, then it won't matter. You will in effect always be able to insure clearance between the tire and the LCA if all of that is/was taken into consideration.
Now,....what you didn't consider was.......
I wonder if disc brakes will affect my overall length when I convert?
.
Here's my high tech drawing of what I was thinking to notch the frame.
I will of course put reinforcement plates around the outside of the rail as well.
What do you think? Why did you choose to use that pipe for yours? Is it stronger structurally than something like this.
This idea comes from the frame notching I have seen on lowered pick ups.
You all make very valid points, and I'm sure you are correct. But you have to admit it's cool looking... Lol
Yeah... I removed the "Build Thread" tab from member selection over a year ago or so. Invariably some idiot would walk in and start a build thread about his cat-back install or his trip the tire shop to have the car aligned. So that got old. I think the straw that broke the camel's back was a thread where someone was having the car done by a performance shop and called it a build thread.
So now we have Progress Threads and moderators make the call whether or not it's a build thread.
The tubing I had was .125 wall stuff I had laying around. I added additional plates to the front, back, and bottom to add strength back.I believe I will need to notch the frame even for the 1.25" tubbing. The back of the shock mount is exactly one inch from the frame. I want to insure adequate clearance for the coil overs.
Here's my high tech drawing of what I was thinking to notch the frame.
I will of course put reinforcement plates around the outside of the rail as well.
What do you think? Why did you choose to use that pipe for yours? Is it stronger structurally than something like this.
This idea comes from the frame notching I have seen on lowered pick ups.
What you have looks like it'll work, and yes if you want to you can duplicate that pattern and make the inside follow the outside cut out.
I'm happy with the "progress" title of my thread. After all it's mostly a bunch of pictures of me installing curb feelers on BOTH sides of my car and also everybody's favorite "what CAN'T i plasti-dip on my car?" mods anyway.
I was almost finished with smoothing my engine bay and I stopped to just look at how it looks overall.
I can say I'm mostly pleased with how it's looking, EXCEPT, those damned ford frame rails!
With Scott Rod panels, the panels weld along the top of the frame rails.....Scott's panels are nice and straight....had ford decided to have anything straight on the frame rails, this would have been easy.
I tried tried to just tack my panels along the rails thinking it would be fine and I wouldn't really see the crookedness of the frame rails so much.
I saw it though, and instead of fixing it at that time, I thought I could just cover it up a little with bondo. It wouldn't be perfect, but it would look ok......It doesn't to me......
.
Soooo....I'm going to redo the frame rail area. I'll post pictures this evening. It will involve cutting metal, grinding, welding, grinding again and then back to filling it.
My goal is still to finish the smoothing this weekend.
Maybe those LMR panels that look like factory panels with no holes would have been good.
I can say I'm mostly pleased with how it's looking, EXCEPT, those damned ford frame rails!
With Scott Rod panels, the panels weld along the top of the frame rails.....Scott's panels are nice and straight....had ford decided to have anything straight on the frame rails, this would have been easy.
I tried tried to just tack my panels along the rails thinking it would be fine and I wouldn't really see the crookedness of the frame rails so much.
I saw it though, and instead of fixing it at that time, I thought I could just cover it up a little with bondo. It wouldn't be perfect, but it would look ok......It doesn't to me......
.Soooo....I'm going to redo the frame rail area. I'll post pictures this evening. It will involve cutting metal, grinding, welding, grinding again and then back to filling it.
My goal is still to finish the smoothing this weekend.
Maybe those LMR panels that look like factory panels with no holes would have been good.
- Mar 2, 2015
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You're putting your all into this car. Your OCD is in full speed. I know it'll turn out great. I'm learning a lot.
Thanks man, same back at you. I'm going to be thinking of your new turbo kit all day today. I guess I might be a little weird, maybe the wife has something there!
I was almost finished with smoothing my engine bay and I stopped to just look at how it looks overall.
I can say I'm mostly pleased with how it's looking, EXCEPT, those damned ford frame rails!
With Scott Rod panels, the panels weld along the top of the frame rails.....Scott's panels are nice and straight....had ford decided to have anything straight on the frame rails, this would have been easy.
I tried tried to just tack my panels along the rails thinking it would be fine and I wouldn't really see the crookedness of the frame rails so much.
I saw it though, and instead of fixing it at that time, I thought I could just cover it up a little with bondo. It wouldn't be perfect, but it would look ok......It doesn't to me......
Soooo....I'm going to redo the frame rail area. I'll post pictures this evening. It will involve cutting metal, grinding, welding, grinding again and then back to filling it.
My goal is still to finish the smoothing this weekend.
Maybe those LMR panels that look like factory panels with no holes would have been good.
Dave, Dave ,Dave ........
Do you think that your frame rails are somehow different from ours? Everyone here that has went through what you are going through knows that the frame rails are crooked. We all know that there are impact crush dimples formed into the front section. We all have done what could be done to smooth out that goofiness.
You know what?
Nobody can even see the frame rails after all of the accessories get back on the engine, and even if they could, there's no sight line reference to even make that bend noticible anymore.
I obsessed over stupid little junk on my front aprons at the time too. Even went as far as repainting the bay after the satin black revealed those little eyesores, after I fixed them.
In the end, it wouldn't have mattered one little bit. None of the imperfections can be seen now that the banger is in. Even if it was,...who looks at a dimple in a fender apron when there's this weird assed orange and black turbo'd thing looking back?
Save your anal tendencies for the part that everybody sees. For the ten or more hours cutting and sectioning the frame rails is gonna cost you, you can have that much more perfection on the parts that matter.
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