Progress Thread My 1991 Gt Convertible

Lyonmt · Nov 10, 2015

And here is the rear main seal. I read quite a bit about them before I installed it. It seams there is a lot of controversy surrounding this thing with some people getting good seals for a long time, some getting temporary seals for months to years and others that get a poor seal and leaking right away. Some say that the seal needs to be clean and dry. Some say that it needs to be soaked in oil and everyone says that you have to get it in there nice an even. Since the crank spins, I think the soaked in oil people are correct as dry=fiction=bad for rubber. So that is what I did. Also, a lot of people think crankcase pressure is the real problem. I dunno *shrug*, I just hope that it's not worse than it was before.

Lyonmt · Nov 12, 2015

I got the new flywheel mounted and torqued down to 80 foot pounds. I also got the clutch installed and torqued down (25 foot pounds). I actually torqued the clutch down a little more as 25 foot-pounds felt really light. If you look at the throw-out bearing you will see striations from the yoke on the last tranny. Man, that thing must have had a lot of miles on it. It looks like it was driven forever, but must have been taken care of to last that long! I wonder if it was the original transmission? You can see I also installed a new pivot in the bell housing. The last one was galled. As dirty as that bell housing looks, that was after it was pressure washed! Fortunately, it’s underneath a lowered car, so no one will ever see it.

Lyonmt · Nov 13, 2015

I picked up the manual seat tracks from a guy parting out a perfectly good 1988 GT Convertible. It was a running/driving/titled car. I hate to see people parting out good cars like that.

mikestang63 · Nov 13, 2015

nice .. did you put some thread sealer on the flywheel bolts and some grease on the pvot ball of the clutch fork? Did you install a new pilot bearing?

I've aways installed the rear main seal dry but everyone has their own method.

Lyonmt · Nov 13, 2015

I used anti-seize. I don't particularly care for thread locker and if you research it, you will see a lot of people use anti-seize on these. In fact, I think I got that from Clymer or Chiltons. I will put grease on the pivot ball and I already put it on the input shaft as well. Yes, I installed a new, greased, pilot bearing. The rear main seal is the only thing that I am worried about. Hopefully, I can get the car put together this weekend and we'll see what happens.

mikestang63 · Nov 13, 2015

Lyonmt said:
I used anti-seize. I don't particularly care for thread locker and if you research it, you will see a lot of people use anti-seize on these. In fact, I think I got that from Clymer or Chiltons. I will put grease on the pivot ball and I already put it on the input shaft as well. Yes, I installed a new, greased, pilot bearing. The rear main seal is the only thing that I am worried about. Hopefully, I can get the car put together this weekend and we'll see what happens.

read my post again. I said thread sealer not thread locker. Glad you read a Chilton though, lol Did it mention the flywheel bolts go through the end of the crank and can leak oil out?

Lyonmt · Nov 13, 2015

mikestang63 said:
read my post again. I said thread sealer not thread locker. Glad you read a Chilton though, lol Did it mention the flywheel bolts go through the end of the crank and can leak oil out?

Oops, that's what happens when you're reading posts when you should be working. No, I don't recall them saying anything about that, I hope it's not a problem.

Lyonmt · Nov 16, 2015

installed the bellhousing and transmission last night. Of course I mounted the trans support backwards.

Lyonmt · Nov 20, 2015

...and it turns out that the oil pan is leaking. Of course!

Lyonmt · Nov 24, 2015

And now I have run into a problem with the neutral switch in the T5 that I got used. It is different than what I had previously, so I am going to have to get a different switch or possibly get another of the same and tap it down to the thread size that I need. Bummer.

madspeed · Nov 24, 2015

saw that, I'd try to pick one up from a Mustang specific vendor

Lyonmt · Nov 24, 2015

madspeed said:
saw that, I'd try to pick one up from a Mustang specific vendor

If it were plug and play, I would. Lord knows that NPD has gotten enough of my money, but I hate to buy a new part and then modify it and find out that I screwed it up. I would rather try it on a used one for half the price first. Yes, I am a cheapskate sometimes.

Boosted92LX · Nov 25, 2015

Lyonmt said:
If it were plug and play, I would. Lord knows that NPD has gotten enough of my money, but I hate to buy a new part and then modify it and find out that I screwed it up. I would rather try it on a used one for half the price first. Yes, I am a cheapskate sometimes.

Man last time i looked NPD was the most expensive out there try late model resto. They are really reasonable and better to deal with than anyone I've ever used.

Lyonmt · Dec 1, 2015

So after a bit of research I found that this is a one year only switch that they only used on the 1985 model. further research found that Todd at Prestige Mustang in Monroe GA has one for $50. However, since I am on a shoestring budget, I am going to buy an 86-95 switch and try to tap it down to the right size. If that doesn't work, I will cut off the pigtail connector and use it to close the loop and bypass the NSS. From what I can tell, most people think that it won't make a difference with the idle.

Special thanks to Matt at NPD for taking the time after hours (sitting in his driveway actually) to discuss this with me at length. That kind of customer service is very rare in this day and age!

Lyonmt · Dec 4, 2015

Got the trans in, got the starter in, got the driveshaft in. Almost back to doing burnouts!

Lyonmt · Dec 4, 2015

B.erazo712, not sure where your post went, but before I can drive it this weekend I need to install the exhaust, the shifter handle and fill it with fluid. I also found that the diff is leaking, so I am gonna address that while it's up on the jack stands. Lastly, I need to install the manual sliders for the drivers seat as the power seat doesn't work (and I prefer manual seats).

To finish, the car it's a much longer list...

B.erazo712 · Dec 4, 2015

Lyonmt said:
To finish, the car it's a much longer list...

I feel ya. Wish I had the time and money to restore my car to its former glory and then some.

Other than that, looks like your making progress.

Lyonmt · Dec 4, 2015

B.erazo712 said:
Other than that, looks like your making progress.

I am going to see how I do with autocross. So I have a long list of things I want to do with it. I am hoping that 2016 brings new upholstery, a replacement door, a fiberglass trunk and paint. After that, cam/heads/intake, a five lug conversion, maybe tubular k member, four wheel disc brakes, gears, a motor rebuild, original tranny rebuild and hopefully a power adder like turbo or super charger, but that is way off in the future.

90sickfox · Dec 5, 2015

I've got a factory fiberglass trunk for sale off an 89 ultra light

Lyonmt · Dec 5, 2015

Ugh! Bad time of year, but how much?

Progress Thread My 1991 Gt Convertible

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Colonel Mustard

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It's only an inch or two. What's the big deal?

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Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands

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