my 393 started breathing today!

#22
You most likely need to turn the 42's down while at idle and light cruising. An AFM pms works great for this. I had to turn my 30's down 46% to even start the car and it was a 359 with 11:1 and custom cam. Had it down 30% just to idle right with 14* of timing.

You need a tune to help with the bugs.
 
#23
heres an update for the day.

went out to the garage this morning and really got to thinkin about the hood and finally just said screw it and decided id try and get the stocker to work. i had to do some "massaging" to the top of the passenger side valve cover so that the throttle linkage could be hooked up, then i had to trim the throttle linkage bracket so it would clear the valve covers, after that the throttle worked smoothly via the pedal. next i attempted to shut the hood, first i removed the insulation pad then lowered it down slowly, it hit on the breather tube on top of the throttle body so i "massaged" it alittle bit and it cleared so i lowered the hood again and then the drivers side forward corner of the intake hit but the hood was already under the latch and extremely close to being fully closed so i pressed on it slightly and it completely shut, im not willing to grind the corner of the intake since i plan on selling it eventually and going with a different one so im gonna leave it for now.

after i got the hood to shut i decided it was time to take her for a spin, took her off the jack stands, reattached the driveshaft to the rear end with my trusty 12mm and backed her out of the driveway. took her around the block a few times running it through the gears (by the way while it was under the knife i converted it from auto to 5 speed as well) clutch was feelin good, gears shifted fine but was still blowin out a pretty good amount of blueish smoke and was stumbling quite a bit. i brought it back to the house and i reset the base idle once again. afterwards i got brave and took it on a 10 mile loop running through the gears at different rpm's, once i got back to the house this time it was reving from 800-1400rpm back and forth again up and down. she was running pretty decent other then that so i decided to get even braver and i took it on a 90 mile round trip. needless to say for the most part she did very good. i topped off the tank before i left and by the time i was at the halfway point i was already through half the tank which is roughly 6mpg, i turned around and came back and over the same distance going the same speed and same route it used just slightly less then another 1/4 tank which is roughly 11mpg, that tells me the computer must be learning something. also the check engine light was on the entire way there and on the way back it went off. everytime i came to a redlight or a stop sign it would still do the reving thing from about 800-1400 but once i pulled into the driveway the settled on roughly 800-850. it is still blowing some blue smoke at idle but drasticly less then even this morning when i took it around the block.

should i try and do the base idle again or should i just leave it alone and let it learn by itself from here on out?

with it still blowin blue smoke is that tellin me my 42's are too big and i should step down to 30's? or should i go the route of doing the tune to the computer?

when i pulled into the gas station and shut it off i noticed antifreeze coming from the front behind the tire, i raised the hood and it was coming from the drain below where the heater core is. does this mean anything, it hasnt done it since then so :shrug:

also when i got back after the 90 mile trip i popped the hood and i heard a slight tapping, i made sure my "massaging" of the valve cover wasnt going to interfere with the rockers so i dont think thats it at all. should i pull the valve covers and redo my rockers?

sorry this is so long, had a pretty eventful day :D

my camera - http://s121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/badass79cj5/?action=view&current=MOV03655.flv

wifes camera - http://s121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/badass79cj5/?action=view&current=MOV00003.flv
 
#26
It sounds good, should be alot of fun when you get it all straight good job so far.
I would pull the valve covers and check the clearance where you "massaged" the valve cover and also recheck the torque on all your rockers i had one that loosened up. For the engine light being on and off try to pull the codes and see if you get any. I am sure you have but double check those clamps on the heater hose lines and the ones you blocked off for the EGR spacer.
 
#28
ya im gonna pull the plugs in the morning and see how they look

also gonna pull the valve covers to both check where i massaged it and check to see if any of my rockers are loose. when i did them i got to 0 lash and went 3/4 of a turn past on each, they are scorpions, are they known to be somewhat noisy? its nothing thats bad but it is noticable and i did notice it before the massaging

yes the hood is touching the top of the intake, i have absoultely no intention of leaving it that way at all, i had the desire of wanting to be able to retain the stock hood for a sleeper look and did everything to attempt it, used solid motor mounts to lower the engine by 3/4 of an inch, removed the hood insulation, massaged the valve cover instead of using the spacer, massaged the breather tube on the throttle body but it still doesnt fit so screw it, ive been looking around for a cowl, i dont really wanna pay 400 bucks for a new hood so im lookin on craigslist etc. i honestly dont see how anyone could get it to fit under the stock hood, especially if they have a taller intake then what i have. o well, it was just nice to be able to close the hood to take it for a spin

once i get the hood im gonna put some personalized valve covers on it and recheck to see if i am going to need the spacer, i got the valve covers that are on it now for about 40 bucks shipped so im not really that concerned about them.

i hope the more i start it the more the computer gets used to everything and the better it will run, i still want to look further into getting a custom tune though.
 
#29
pulled the plugs this morning they are all covered in carbon

removed the iac and cleaned it and made sure it was moving freely

recleaned the throttle body itself

rechecked timing

still running the same, blowing blue smoke, stumbling here and there at different rpm's

what could possibly be going on here?
 
#32
i hope i dont come off as being completely ignorant by saying this but what exactly do they do when they retune the computer?

do i give them my car and they just toy with it till they get everything good?

do i just give them the computer and tell them all of my build specs and they ballpark it?

also whats an average price range to expect?
 
#33
small update, i checked my oil and it wasnt even registering on the dipstick. so i am to assume that the bluish smoke isnt from it running too rich but its from burning oil

what kind of timeframe should i expect the rings to be fully seated so it stops burning oil?

took this video alittle while ago, cold start idling at 750, when it warms up though it idles about 900, does that tell anyone anything?

Video of idle 2 - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
 
#34
.

the first thing they will do is put a programable chip in your computer then they will hook a lap top to your computer and run the car on a dyno to see what it needs then they will change your fuel mixture and timing after 5 or 6 pulls you will get your max power.To ansewer your queston they will set timing idle etc. but he will reprogram your computer and tell it how many cubic inches you have now and how mutch fuel and timing you will need with the mods you have cost around 600.00
 
#35
.

what kind of oil stick did you use with that 7qt pan if you used the original stick did you look to see where it regesterd on the stick when you first filled it up because it probaly wont read like it did before
 
#37
really only one way 2 find out, but the rings would not be seated yet, i put 6 or 7 tanks of gas through it before confirming, the blowby. If by then its still burning that much oil, do a compression test, will tell you what cylinders it coming from.
 
#38
really hard to put any distance on the car going by gas tanks because its getting such bad mileage, i went through half a tank in roughly 45 miles the first tank

i did a compression test.

this is with the fuel pump off and wot

#1 - 167
#2 - 159
#3 - 162
#4 - 164
#5 - 165
#6 - 164
#7 - 168
#8 - 163

i only did a dry test and the engine was cold

plugs were pretty build up, cleaned them real good and reinstalled

it is still blowing the bluish smoke, started it with pcv hole in intake plugged, the vacumn hose going to the pcv plugged, both valve cover holes plugged and breather tube on throttle body plugged.
 
#39
.

sounds like you need to get the tune done that will fix your rich condition and get the car running correct then i would go from there.you need to seat the rings some time soon by driving the car under a load
 
#40
drove it around alittle bit again, i read something earlier on some site stating that if you are having trouble getting the rings to seat then to not be nice to it, so i reved it a few times and also in first and second i brought it up to 3500. still smokes. not only is it smoking but it stumbles like crazy, i can keep the throttle in the same exact position and it could be running top notch and then it just starts stumbling on its face, sometimes it starts bucking like crazy depending upon the rpm, it runs absoultely pathetic, something is seriously wrong here.

engine off test 1
63, 85, / 96, 41, 63

ok before i drove the car today i checked my tps voltage just for general purpose and it was at .99 well when it popped code 63 i rechecked the voltage and i kid you not it was .03 wtf is that, so i got it back to .99 and redid the engine off test and here is what it did this time

engine off test 2
85 / 41, 63, 96

i have not rechecked the tps voltage since it popped again

engine running
12, 42, 92

according to my book here are the meanings

code 12 - system cannot raise engine speed above normal idle
code 41 - o2 sensor voltage always lean - does not switch
code 42 - 02 sensor voltage always rich - does not switch
code 63 - tps voltage low
code 85 - cannister purge solenoid circuit failure or electronic control assembly status - adaptive lean limit reached in fuel control program
code 92 - right side o2 sensor voltage always rich
code 96 - thermactor air system problem right side air flow will not bypass or fuel pump circuit failure or high speed fuel pump relay circuit failure

how in the world can the o2 sensors be saying its always lean and always rich

is the tps bad and its telling the computer all sorts of weird engine speeds which is causing the o2 sensors to say its either too rich or too lean for that perticular engine speed? the engine does like to rev up and down for no perticular reason in the world other then it just wanting me to go insane.

man this sucks, this has got to be 10 times worse then global warming

i am at a complete loss, it runs worse then crap, that is if crap could run
 
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