My 65 coupe pics!!

AdamInChains

Member
Apr 22, 2006
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Ok heres some pics of my 65 coupe. These pics are a few years old, and since they were done i've done a few upgrades and its still in progress. All of the work including paint was done in my dads garage. Not the best pics in the world but its all i have right now and i will post more as i get them.<br><br>
<img src="http://img273.imageshack.us/img273/9868/stang18fb.jpg"><BR>
<img src="http://img430.imageshack.us/img430/6589/stang21un.jpg"><BR><BR>
Here's my trunk after we put some carpet in it along with 2 kenwood amps, 10 disc changer and enclosure for 10" MTX sub (not visible). And i still have room for the full sized spare.<BR>
<img src="http://img430.imageshack.us/img430/9800/trunk12ek.jpg"><BR>

Heres the 347 we got just a few months back that we're in the process of putting in.<BR>
<img src="http://img55.imageshack.us/img55/6389/engine16ae.jpg"><BR>
<img src="http://img235.imageshack.us/img235/4508/engine22hj.jpg"><BR><BR>

Since these pics some upgrades we've done includes AOD, aluminum radiator, hedman ceramic coated shorty headers, and i got the carb and air cleaner on. I think after i'm finished with the drive train i'm going to redo the paint. I'll post some more pics as i get them.
 
Don't ruin that fine engine with a CRAPPY FRAM filter, get a Mobile1 or Wix. Fram is crap. :nonono:

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters.html

"Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter (the radioactive-orange cans) is one of the worst out there. It features cardboard end caps for the filter element that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and frequently leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time. The stamped-metal threaded end is weakly constructed and it has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow. I had one of these filters fail in my previous car. The filter element collapsed and bits of filter and glue were circulating through my system. The oil passage to the head became blocked and the head got so hot from oil starvation that it actually melted the vacuum lines connected to it as well as the wires near it."
 
Nice stuff! Don't use FRAM tho! Purolator is way better and usually a little cheaper. Besides, that cheby orange filter makes anything look bad :D I've noticed all our Nissans tap less cold in startup without FRAM filters.
 
Thanks for all the comments! Damn i had no idea a fram oil filter was so bad, i'll have to change that out right away. Recently i've also added 4 wheel disc brakes and sub frame connectors. One upgrade i'm really happy about is that KRC Power Steering pump you see on my motor. It seems to make the steering much more responsive. Eventually i'd like to upgrade to R&P too. Thanks!!
 

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I have to ask if the car has repop doors on it ? The gaps at the bottom either are wider than normal or the shadow is bad .
Ive seen where some people have had to add a 1/8 inch strip to the bottom of repop doors and Im wondering if that might be the reason ? Looks good , wish my car looked anywhere close to that .
 
Actually, no they are original doors, and those lines are not gaps. Those lines are actually from my stainless steel door sill plates, they have a small lip around the edge of the door sill to protect the paint there. They look pretty cool when the door is open and they protect the paint. I dont have any pics of mine right now but you can see them on mustangs plus here.<BR>
<img src="http://www.mustangsplus.com/images/sill.jpg">
http://www.mustangsplus.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=MPFMP&Product_Code=01906

I also have some stainless strips on the verticle edge of my door to protect the paint from chips there also.

<img src="http://www.mustangsplus.com/images/01139lg.jpg">
http://www.mustangsplus.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=MPFMP&Product_Code=01139