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Progress Thread My '89 Lx "barn Find" Restoration Project

  • Thread starter Thread starter mrobins26
  • Start date Start date Feb 20, 2017
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1200gt

Active Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Feb 25, 2017
#41
  • Feb 25, 2017
  • #41
madmike1157 said:
I think you need more WD 40.
Click to expand...
Funny, you mean my garage stock!!! lol.. My friends tell me that I have a 5 car garage stuffed into a 1 car bay. Keeping things neat is a bit of a choir....
 

1200gt

Active Member
Nov 29, 1999
357
40
39
Feb 25, 2017
#42
  • Feb 25, 2017
  • #42
"Everything cleaned up and ready to put back together.... Note the throttle body studs... I had a hard time finding those. Found the stainless ones at McMaster-Carr PN 92997A344
"Corrosion-Resistant Setup Stud 5/16"-18 Thread Size, 4" Long, 1-1/2" and 1/2" Long Threads" and even then had to extend the threads on one end"

Just curious, because last night I took my throttlebody off trying to get the passenger's side long tube to go in: What did you mean above when you said you had to extend the threads on those new stud bolts?

Mine were a bit cruddy and I was considering cleaning them up this morning for re-use. For now I bought a TB gasket set from Jegs P/N 555-51307; the closest set I could find to the OEM gasket set. I'm thinking about the S/S studs but again, I don't want to kill the wallet...
 
M

mrobins26

Active Member
Jan 23, 2017
119
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53
Texas
Feb 25, 2017
#43
  • Feb 25, 2017
  • #43
Dan02gt said:
Cool thread. I'll definitely be following it.

I wouldn't say the 3.08s are rare but they definitely made more 2.73 geared cars.

As for the rear drums. Maximum Motorsports makes a upgraded shoe that will help them perform better.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I'll check into those. If you look at my front brakes I couldn't help myself and got the PowerStop vented disc upgrade that still use stock calipers. I figured that isn't really a modification.
 

stykthyn

I want to measure mine. It doesn't look that tall.
15 Year Member
Jul 6, 2006
5,232
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Feb 25, 2017
#44
  • Feb 25, 2017
  • #44
Vented yes. Drilled/slotted? No.
 
M

mrobins26

Active Member
Jan 23, 2017
119
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53
Texas
Feb 25, 2017
#45
  • Feb 25, 2017
  • #45
1200gt said:
That is a very common problem. I was able glue mine together in the interim. Let us know where you locate the new part. I'll eventually buy one later down my project. I have the entire dash pulled away doing the heater core and evap.Thanks.
Click to expand...

Rockauto has 5 different replacement parts ranging from $6 to $31.. Of course the $31 is Motorcraft.
I'm pretty sure I bought the STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS PN US98 for $11ish.
It looked identical to the one I replaced and appeared to be equal in quality
 
M

mrobins26

Active Member
Jan 23, 2017
119
108
53
Texas
Feb 25, 2017
#46
  • Feb 25, 2017
  • #46
1200gt said:
"Everything cleaned up and ready to put back together.... Note the throttle body studs... I had a hard time finding those. Found the stainless ones at McMaster-Carr PN 92997A344
"Corrosion-Resistant Setup Stud 5/16"-18 Thread Size, 4" Long, 1-1/2" and 1/2" Long Threads" and even then had to extend the threads on one end"

Just curious, because last night I took my throttlebody off trying to get the passenger's side long tube to go in: What did you mean above when you said you had to extend the threads on those new stud bolts?

Mine were a bit cruddy and I was considering cleaning them up this morning for re-use. For now I bought a TB gasket set from Jegs P/N 555-51307; the closest set I could find to the OEM gasket set. I'm thinking about the S/S studs but again, I don't want to kill the wallet...
Click to expand...

Mine were almost rusted completely through so I had no choice. On the McMaster-Carr studs were 1 1/2" inch thread length on one side, and 1/2" on the end that screws into the manifold... The original ones have about 3/4" of thread so I just used a die to cut more threads...

I bought 5 in case I screwed one up <pun> and with shipping they were $20
 

1200gt

Active Member
Nov 29, 1999
357
40
39
Feb 25, 2017
#47
  • Feb 25, 2017
  • #47
Wow, your not wasting any time pulling parts! I see you're staying 4 lug. What bushings have you decided on? And thanks for the McMaster-Carr lead. I didn't know of them.
BTW, what did you mean when you said you had to extend the TB studs. I was thinking about ordering a few but wanted to be sure I didn't need a different p/n for the extension issue...thanks
 

1200gt

Active Member
Nov 29, 1999
357
40
39
Feb 25, 2017
#48
  • Feb 25, 2017
  • #48
Sorry the repeated question, I see you just answered. I was out at walmart and goy the hit for you response.....
 

1200gt

Active Member
Nov 29, 1999
357
40
39
Feb 25, 2017
#49
  • Feb 25, 2017
  • #49
mrobins26 said:
Mine were almost rusted completely through so I had no choice. On the McMaster-Carr studs were 1 1/2" inch thread length on one side, and 1/2" on the end that screws into the manifold... The original ones have about 3/4" of thread so I just used a die to cut more threads...

I bought 5 in case I screwed one up <pun> and with shipping they were $20
Click to expand...

Awesome! That's doable. I'll order them today. Sorry for posting to you so much; I happen to be hear at the site a bit researching. That how I came across you build. I was just out at WM trying to find a battery. My list calls for a 63-3 size EverStart they didn't have one so I'm considering converting the termination ends or going with a size 58. they are easier to find.
 
M

mrobins26

Active Member
Jan 23, 2017
119
108
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Texas
Feb 25, 2017
#50
  • Feb 25, 2017
  • #50
1200gt said:
Wow, your not wasting any time pulling parts! I see you're staying 4 lug. What bushings have you decided on? And thanks for the McMaster-Carr lead. I didn't know of them.
BTW, what did you mean when you said you had to extend the TB studs. I was thinking about ordering a few but wanted to be sure I didn't need a different p/n for the extension issue...thanks
Click to expand...

Yes 4 lug... What are you going to do when you want to keep original wheels.
Which bushings do you mean?
Around 130K or 140K miles I had to change out a motor mount, and went ahead and changed the lower A-arm bushings. I just replaced ball joints but the bushings were still in really good shape...
The coil spring top and bottom bushings were toast so I replaced those, and of course when I replaced the strut I replaced those.
 
M

mrobins26

Active Member
Jan 23, 2017
119
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Texas
Feb 25, 2017
#51
  • Feb 25, 2017
  • #51
stykthyn said:
Vented yes. Drilled/slotted? No.
Click to expand...

Don't tell anyone... I still have the OEM ones that can go back on since they were basically new anyway.
 
Reactions: stykthyn

1200gt

Active Member
Nov 29, 1999
357
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39
Feb 25, 2017
#52
  • Feb 25, 2017
  • #52
I was thinking of the LC bushings, and did you go with poly. I just ordered my motor mount and trans bushing I went with the energy piece because of the engine height diff that I read about. My motor only has original 45k but when I lifted the motor last night they had a bunch of cracks, so I figure now is a good time.

I' just finishing up on the 5 lug conversion to just get the better braking, in reality, 4 lug is really just fine for most driving styles. Yeah, those spring isolators take a beating. I di poly on those also, but for now I just kept the stock spring until I get a feel for the actual updated ride height.

Did you have a problem with spring selection. Finding stock p/n is getting harder, as someone earlier mentioned. Most manufacturers are grouping 79-04 part wherever they can. This unfortunately under-cut Fords specific design specs on some parts. Struts come to mind right away on this issue...
 
M

mrobins26

Active Member
Jan 23, 2017
119
108
53
Texas
Feb 25, 2017
#53
  • Feb 25, 2017
  • #53
New sending unit, fuel pump ready to go back in the tank
 
Reactions: 90sickfox and B.erazo712
M

mrobins26

Active Member
Jan 23, 2017
119
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Feb 25, 2017
#54
  • Feb 25, 2017
  • #54
Ready to go back in the car... I really like the replacement tank pads that LMR has.. a tiny bit on the expensive side but glad I got them
 
M

mrobins26

Active Member
Jan 23, 2017
119
108
53
Texas
Feb 25, 2017
#55
  • Feb 25, 2017
  • #55
1200gt said:
I was thinking of the LC bushings, and did you go with poly. I just ordered my motor mount and trans bushing I went with the energy piece because of the engine height diff that I read about. My motor only has original 45k but when I lifted the motor last night they had a bunch of cracks, so I figure now is a good time.

I' just finishing up on the 5 lug conversion to just get the better braking, in reality, 4 lug is really just fine for most driving styles. Yeah, those spring isolators take a beating. I di poly on those also, but for now I just kept the stock spring until I get a feel for the actual updated ride height.

Did you have a problem with spring selection. Finding stock p/n is getting harder, as someone earlier mentioned. Most manufacturers are grouping 79-04 part wherever they can. This unfortunately under-cut Fords specific design specs on some parts. Struts come to mind right away on this issue...
Click to expand...

Stock rubber on LC bushings, stock original springs, poly on isolators.. I used my car as a daily driver with a 60 mile round trip commute. So lots of miles but besides the small stuff.. Throttle body gasket leak, brakes, vacuum lines, belt, hoses, spark plugs, injectors, fuel filter, fuel sending unit, etc... It is mostly cosmetic interior stuff and cosmetic exterior stuff. I did not cheap the struts or the rear shocks... damn quad shocks cost a fortune to get OEM replacements ($85 bucks each)...
 

1200gt

Active Member
Nov 29, 1999
357
40
39
Feb 25, 2017
#56
  • Feb 25, 2017
  • #56
mrobins26 said:
Stock rubber on LC bushings, stock original springs, poly on isolators.. I used my car as a daily driver with a 60 mile round trip commute. So lots of miles but besides the small stuff.. Throttle body gasket leak, brakes, vacuum lines, belt, hoses, spark plugs, injectors, fuel filter, fuel sending unit, etc... It is mostly cosmetic interior stuff and cosmetic exterior stuff. I did not cheap the struts or the rear shocks... damn quad shocks cost a fortune to get OEM replacements ($85 bucks each)...
Click to expand...


They saw you coming on the Quads, eh. lol There's not much you can do on the prices if you want quality. I'm just darn happy to have a car that I like, and happen to have the ability to work on it and have fun doing it!

My car sat for close to 20 years, with only the occasional start up and around the corner run. It was one of those project that, like you, I was always going to get to. My fuel sending unit was out of production when suddenly some nice company decided to start making it aftermarket. I was happy because the gauges wouldn't work with 87 - 93 sender. In many ways, you're lucky. Your year has more parts available.

Drive it! and I'll get watching your transformation. The pics are great btw, I've saved a few for references for when I get to those stages.
 

Jaystang73

Member
Feb 26, 2017
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Feb 26, 2017
#57
  • Feb 26, 2017
  • #57
Hey there proud owner of an 86 fix convertible gt
 

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mrobins26

Active Member
Jan 23, 2017
119
108
53
Texas
Feb 26, 2017
#58
  • Feb 26, 2017
  • #58
Got the gas tank back in, brakes buttoned up and ready to test... maybe I can get it into the light and show y'all what the whole thing looks like

 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 25, 2016
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polk county florida
Feb 26, 2017
#59
  • Feb 26, 2017
  • #59
Yea, really tired of be'n teased,
Pics of the car
Pics of the car.
 
M

mrobins26

Active Member
Jan 23, 2017
119
108
53
Texas
Feb 26, 2017
#60
  • Feb 26, 2017
  • #60
I was afraid the fuel pump wasn't working because it is so quiet compared to the old one. But everything works and idle is smooth... started moving on to check other things... A/C still works great! Power Windows have a bit of an issue going up and down and door locks are stuck.
I already started taking off some of the trim but here is car...

 
Reactions: 95BlueStallion, A5literMan, RaggedGT and 2 others
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