Progress Thread My '89 Lx "barn Find" Restoration Project

Jaystang73 · Feb 26, 2017

Very nice car buddy keep up the good work

1200gt · Feb 26, 2017

karthief said:
Yea, really tired of be'n teased,
Pics of the car
Pics of the car.

lol Bump!

mrobins26 · Feb 26, 2017

Side note: This is now my favorite but seldom needed tool in the tool box!

1200gt · Feb 26, 2017

There she BLOWS!!!

I can just see the dollar $$$$ This is going to be a real project guys... It is such a great platform to start with.

Silicone for the window slides and probably replacing the plastic gears in the window motors will coming soon. They always crack an crumble... Looking good so far.

BTW, I ordered those bolts for the TB. They never gave me a shipping price: very odd....

Thanks anyway for that lead to McMaster-Carr, what and awesome company to know of.

General karthief · Feb 26, 2017

mrobins26 said:
Side note: This is now my favorite but seldom needed tool in the tool box!

Now what da helz dat fer?

1200gt · Feb 26, 2017

mrobins26 said:
Side note: This is now my favorite but seldom needed tool in the tool box!

Yeah, I have it but never got to use it. I stayed with the stock springs up front for now until I get a good bead on my final ride height. I'll be running 18" wheels. I may get to use it soon though. It would be great if we could pass this tool around somehow to let others use it. I may use it only once...who knows.

Your weather must be good enough to get the car out. I'm in South Florida. It's BEAUTIFUL here this time of year. Too bad I'm working on the car and not driving these days....intime.

Have a great upcoming week.

mrobins26 · Feb 26, 2017

karthief said:
Now what da helz dat fer?

It goes in the hole on the lower control arm and holds coil spring in place so you can use a floor jack to compress the spring instead of messing with coil compressor tools.

1200gt · Feb 28, 2017

1200gt said:
There she BLOWS!!!

......BTW, I ordered those bolts for the TB. They never gave me a shipping price: very odd....

Thanks anyway for that lead to McMaster-Carr, what and awesome company to know of.

I'm kinda quoteing myself here, and know that this is @mrobins26 build thread, but I am hoping to help any of you other guys that read my comments about the McMaster-Carr stud order and decide you want to make the same purchase: well, I wanted you to consider buying the studs a little longer than the 4" units that we bought. The reason is: The shafts of these studs are not as long as the factory studs, as these have more threading where I would have preferred more shaft length. This can be had by buying the studs about 1/2" longer, and then cut some of the length off from the threaded portion. This done, you will end up with close to factory spec stud length.

Hey, I'll post a pic of both studs so you can see what I mean.

Use the p/n that robins listed to get you to the McMaster-Carr catalog page where you can choose the length bolt that your heart desires

McMaster_Carr: Wow! They shipped my studs SO-FAST! I ordered Sunday night and Tuesday morning my UPS guy was giving me the box! Say-no-more.

mrobins26 · Mar 4, 2017

1200gt said:
I'm kinda quoteing myself here, and know that this is @mrobins26 build thread, but I am hoping to help any of you other guys that read my comments about the McMaster-Carr stud order and decide you want to make the same purchase: well, I wanted you to consider buying the studs a little longer than the 4" units that we bought. The reason is: The shafts of these studs are not as long as the factory studs, as these have more threading where I would have preferred more shaft length. This can be had by buying the studs about 1/2" longer, and then cut some of the length off from the threaded portion. This done, you will end up with close to factory spec stud length.

Hey, I'll post a pic of both studs so you can see what I mean.

Use the p/n that robins listed to get you to the McMaster-Carr catalog page where you can choose the length bolt that your heart desires

McMaster_Carr: Wow! They shipped my studs SO-FAST! I ordered Sunday night and Tuesday morning my UPS guy was giving me the box! Say-no-more.

Yes they ship fast... The interesting thing here is that I took the thread measurements straight off the studs that I pulled out of my throttle body. The only difference on mine was the total length being 1/8 inch short on the Mcmaster Carr replacements... This was not an issue, and the short side thread length being 1/4" shorter, which I extended with a die. On mine the thread length on the long side from Mcmaster car replacement matched exactly what I had taken out. I know mine were stock.

mrobins26 · Mar 4, 2017

Okay, simple stuff today... Bled the brakes, set the idle which was slightly fast (setting idle posts on this site were great) , and then I started looking for other things that were wrong....
Two problems I need to resolve:
1) The TPS voltage could only be adjusted from .33 to .46? Is this just a bad TPS and the computer is doing what it can to compensate? I did manage a good smooth idle right around 800-825 rpm.
2) Passenger door won't unlock, won't open and the key "unlocks" or at least can be turned where it is supposed to unlock... I'm curious if anybody has had to manage getting a door panel off with the door closed?

mrobins26 · Mar 4, 2017

Okay, simple stuff today... Bled the brakes, set the idle which was slightly fast (setting idle posts on this site were great) , and then I started looking for other things that were wrong....
Two problems I need to resolve:
1) The TPS voltage could only be adjusted from .33 to .46? Is this just a bad TPS and the computer is doing what it can to compensate? I did manage a good smooth idle right around 800-825 rpm.
2) Passenger door won't unlock, won't open and the key "unlocks" or at least can be turned where it is supposed to unlock... I'm curious if anybody has had to manage getting a door panel off with the door closed?

General karthief · Mar 4, 2017

I may be able to help you open that door, first off, don't force the inside door handle, it's plastic and will break, you may be able to pull up on the lock that sticks through the top of the door panel with a pair of needle nose pliers and pull on the outside door handel, you kind of have to feel it out.
If your electric lock plunger is not frozen you can jump the switch.

Jersey Joe · Mar 5, 2017

Maybe I was under thinking this at the time when my studs were not reusable, but I just went ahead and got some threaded rod from Lowes and cut to length, I was not aware of replacement studs and that was probably my fault being impatient. But it has been so far so good.

mrobins26 · Mar 5, 2017

karthief said:
I may be able to help you open that door, first off, don't force the inside door handle, it's plastic and will break, you may be able to pull up on the lock that sticks through the top of the door panel with a pair of needle nose pliers and pull on the outside door handel, you kind of have to feel it out.
If your electric lock plunger is not frozen you can jump the switch.

Okay...
I got tot he door lock switches today and tested the continuity of them. They check out.
I can get a pretty good grip on the lock sticking up through the top and pulled as hard as I dared.
Once I get my battery charged up and pass. window down, I will try a combination outer door handle and pliers on the lock.
I can jump it, but pretty sure the solenoid is frozen solid.

Any other ideas are much appreciated.

mrobins26 · Mar 5, 2017

I checked out the rest of the fuse panel today and tested began testing the rest of the accessories...
headlights, brake lights, back up, running lights, hazards, blinkers, dome light all work.
Defroster, AC, radio, gauge cluster lights were a little dim until I worked the dimmer wheel back and forth to knock off some of the oxidation.

Earlier dome light wouldn't go off with doors closed... This turned out to be a crumbling hatch open/close switch.

What doesn't work... license plate lights, vanity mirror lights, and the swivel map light... could be a combination of bulbs and or wiring, but can't find a lot of information on the visors, and they don't seem to be serviceable. (replace the whole thing?)
Oddly if I leave the brand new battery plugged in, it is dead the next day, so I have a drain on it somewhere.

mrobins26 · Mar 5, 2017

I

nterior pictures, they will get better once I can get pass door unlocked and the car out into the light. Rainy day today.

mrobins26 · Mar 5, 2017

Jersey Joe said:
Maybe I was under thinking this at the time when my studs were not reusable, but I just went ahead and got some threaded rod from Lowes and cut to length, I was not aware of replacement studs and that was probably my fault being impatient. But it has been so far so good.

As long as the gaskets don't leak. I wanted stainless steel.
Is your fuel rail regulator o ring starting to leak? I'm only asking because the rest of the engine in the picture looks clean enough to eat off of.

General karthief · Mar 5, 2017

mrobins26 said:
Okay...
I got tot he door lock switches today and tested the continuity of them. They check out.
I can get a pretty good grip on the lock sticking up through the top and pulled as hard as I dared.
Once I get my battery charged up and pass. window down, I will try a combination outer door handle and pliers on the lock.
I can jump it, but pretty sure the solenoid is frozen solid.

Any other ideas are much appreciated.

Like I said, if the lock actuator is seized, try the pull lock button/door handel thing. Let me know if it works.

mrobins26 · Mar 5, 2017

Hah, I just realized in the last picture... I never even peeled the seatbelt stickers off the windows.

General karthief · Mar 5, 2017

Good deal, bet you'll never find another cept a no mileage car.

Progress Thread My '89 Lx "barn Find" Restoration Project

Member

Active Member

Active Member

Active Member

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

Active Member

Active Member

Active Member

Active Member

Active Member

Active Member

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

I remember blowing that Monkey's ass

Active Member

Active Member

Active Member

Active Member

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

Active Member

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency