My car acts as if there is no battery in it.

[NOmoreHONDA]

Well as the title states.....my car wont start. I was driving it on tuesday with out any problems. I tried to drive it again on friday but no such luck. Car would not crank. Car was completley dead, no lights, hazard, brake, interior, warning indicators..... nothing; just as if there is no battery in vehicle at all!

So my first logical step is to try and jump start the car. I hooked up a fresh fresh fresh booster pack.........same results! No respons, not a light not a ding, not a thing.

What the hell happend to my car while its been on its parked adventure?

Thanks in advance.

 

[NOmoreHONDA]

anyone got any ideas?

 

[NOmoreHONDA]

The fact that I am getting no responses is making me even more nervous.

 

[SteedaGT9150]

post this in tech and youll prob get more responces

 

[85ragtop]

Moved to tech.

 

[HISSIN50]

Clean all the battery connections and cables. Dont forget the solenoid's battery lug.

Good luck.

 

[NOmoreHONDA]

I thought i would add some things that may help.
Before this problem happenend there are a couple things that were sort of weird that happend.

1. After replacing my starter my starter solenoid stuck and cranked the car over untill I tapped the solenoid with a screw driver.-never happend again after that night.

2. Left directional stopped working.

3. I banged on my steering wheel when my girl pissed me off and the car stalled on the highway. When I pulled over a moved a rather large connector and pushed it back into place and the car ran fine after.

4. Sometimes when I hit a bump all of the gauge cluster lights turn off except for the hazards go on solid and the interior high beam indicator goes on.......untill I hit another bump that is....

5. The last day my car was running the "key in ignition chime" stayed on even when the key was out of the ignition.

6. My car was running fine and then I removed the radio. (cut wires) I never tried to start it immediatly after but the following day it didint run so I am not sure if that is related.

this car has so many little problems I am beginning to think I may just find a rolling chassis or a 4 cyl to convert.






thanks for the move as well as the recomendations. I will try the battery stuff tomarrow

 

[88mouse]

sounds like the ele. part of the key switch.

 

[FoxChasis]

Remove the steering column trim and check the ignition switch (not the part the key goes in...it's a very large connection directly behind the key tumbler). If it has separated, there's your problem....it need to be replaced.

 

[NOmoreHONDA]

If its the connector I am thinking off then it has been loosely connected since i have owned the car. If it seperated I just put it back on and the car ran great. Can that thing break to the point that if i put it back together it still wont work?

 

[88mouse]

If its the connector I am thinking off then it has been loosely connected since i have owned the car. If it seperated I just put it back on and the car ran great. Can that thing break to the point that if i put it back together it still wont work?

Yep happen to my gt.

 

[NOmoreHONDA]

Thanks. I will be ordering one from 50 resto. Unless you know of somewhere else?

 

[Saleen0679]

Local Ford dealer might be cheaper for an inexpensive part after you factor in shipping costs from 50resto.

 

[Mustang5L5]

If you have ZERO juice at all, then it's a loose connection on the battery or on the starter solenoid or a loose ground.

 

[HISSIN50]

Local Ford dealer might be cheaper for an inexpensive part after you factor in shipping costs from 50resto.

It was about 20 bucks for me to grab one from the dealer. Nice to have that kind of part ASAP.

 

[NOmoreHONDA]

Absolutley Zero power!

 

[HISSIN50]

Absolutley Zero power!

See Post 6, Mike's post above, and any others addressing the battery connections and cables.

Good luck.

 

[NOmoreHONDA]

Well I checked all the power and battery cables and came up with nothing.

Does anyone know of any sort main fuse of some sort on our cars????

The last time the car was running fine was right before I removed the radio. I am wondering if there is something I snipped or grounded out when cutting the radio wires, which may have caused this.

thanks for your help guys.

 

[jrichker]

Clean the battery posts and clamps using a tool like this:

Batteries will often develop a hard oxide coating on the posts and terminals that does not conduct electricty.

If you have battery cables with the clamp on terminal ends like this

replace the whole cable assembly with one that has a factory one piece terminal. Acid will creep into the connection and wires to make a bad connection.

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ Everyone should bookmark this site.

Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg

HVAC vacuum diagram
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Mustang_AC_heat_vacuum_controls.gif

TFI module differences & pinout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/TFI_5.0_comparison.gif

 

[Mustang5L5]

Well I checked all the power and battery cables and came up with nothing.

Does anyone know of any sort main fuse of some sort on our cars????

The last time the car was running fine was right before I removed the radio. I am wondering if there is something I snipped or grounded out when cutting the radio wires, which may have caused this.

thanks for your help guys.

Make a test light. Just get a simple 12V bulb and two leads of wire. Ground one side (to chassis or neg terminal) and start poking around to see where you do or do not power.


First thing to check...the POS side of the starter solenoid.


A Digital Multimeter would be a better choice if you can. If not use the bulb. Just basically poke around and see where you have 12V and where you do not.


I bet $5 you don't have power at the starter solenoid because if you did you would be able to turn the lights on and such at least since they always have power