My car got F'ED up

[mob]

thanks fox notch, i may just run 2 bolts till i can get it fixed, their not aluminum heads, having something welded on there may be a good idea, idk if they can do that. Maybe just too much tension on the bolts, not tightened down enough, and vibrations made it come out.

 

[mob]

JY=junkyard

ahh true lol thought it was some store over there they didnt have over here

 

[bentley429]

That really sucks MOB. It looks like you could take the radiator out and drill that bolt out yourself to save some $$$.

 

[795.0pacecar]

That sucks, it seems like your having the worst of luck lately. If you have the cash, or can get it, this might be the perfect time to have those heads machined, and swap them around.

 

[Aliate X]

the top 2 bolts fell out, thats what made the lower snap.

coolant is probably coming from the thermo, not enough rtv or something no big deal.

 

[RsStanG1987]

So i guess we arent hitting the track tommorrow. If you need a hand give me a buzz.

 

[88gt]

Mob...most likely they are 3/8"-16nc thread bolts....16nc = the number of threads per inch. grade 8 bolts would be more than strong enough for this purpose, grade 5 would be sufficient. I agree with the heat cycle theory of why they backed out. A lock washer would help, remember....anti-sieze when installing a iron bolt into aluminum. You can gaul (mess-up) the threads in the heads if not careful. As for extracting..drill it out, use an extractor, chase the threads with a thread chaser. At worse - you'll need a heli-coil kit to repair. If I was closer..I'd jump in the middle of this to help!!!

Good luck...also...remember- if it has tits or headlights.....it's gonna give you problems.

Jim

 

[GT89Mustang]

Man mob did do a good job of cleaning those heads up, everyone keeps saying their aluminum.

 

[8950HO]

I think those bolt holes in the head are 7/16" diameter with coarse threads.
Probably grade 8 from the factory.

Don`t know the length.

 

[88gt]

Man mob did do a good job of cleaning those heads up, everyone keeps saying their aluminum.

oh..dayum..

 

[old_blue]

oh shyt, sorry for the late post but I haven't been on here lately.

I feel bad for ya MOB but we have all been there and made stupid mistakes. In my 65 ranchero I installed a shifter bolt where pressure plates bolts to the fly wheel. No big deal, except the bolt was 1/2" longer and when I turned it over it scrapped like something fierce.

You did good on the head and intake install though. oh and I wouldn't run just 2 bolts, there is a reason there are 3 bolts and I would use them all.

 

[mob]

thanks guys! Im gonna see if I can get bolt extractor tomorrow, sucks because I have about 20 bucks, and I dont have a car till like 6 when my mom gets home so ill have to get a friend to drive me around, ill see if I can get 2 bolts tomorrow and when I get paid getting an extractor kit or anyhing else I need wont be a problem. And yea their gt40p's! haha makes me feel kinda good that people think their aluminum, not because im trying to convinse people they are but they look good!

 

[Foxfan88]

take a nice bar, prolly 1/4 inch thick, bend it into an L. grind the end smaller so u can weld it to the bolt nicely without nuking the head. get a nice SOLID weld on it, and slowly work it back and forth. if it breaks off, weld it back on.

or weld some metal onto it. so it pokes out and weld a nut on it and try to get it out that way.


that or get a screw extractor or "easy out" drill the hole for it, hammer the easy out in and rotate it out. its a big bolt so u have plenty of meat to work with.

and those bolts are 3/8 i believe.

its not a big deal.
i am sure a shop would take it in a get it out and put it back together for you.

and water pumps are dirt cheap for a fox.
15 buck for a NEW one. and they are SUPER EASY to change.

 

[mob]

kk cool guys, im feeling alot better now, I found out the bots are 3/8 and i found out how long i need it, ill try the screw extractor, I have a welder but it dosent work.

 

[90NotchBack]

You can get a screw extractor kit. use the appropriate drill bit in the kit for the bolt, drill a in the center of the broken bolt, drive in the corresponding ribbed hardened steel shaft (included in the kit), then there is a nut that slides onto the hardened shaft, use the a wrench on the nut to thread the broken bolt out. Easy fix with the heads still on the car. And just remember to use lok tite next time.

I would do it this way. I've gotten a lot of broken bolts out of thing using the kit. Any hardware or tool place should have the kit. You have to drill in the center of the bolt with the right drill bite. Then put this tool in the hole you drilled and screw the broken bolt out. I know I'm a little late on the topic but oh well.
This is what it looks like.

and here is a site with all the kits.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?ItemId=1611635784

 

[795.0pacecar]

If the bolt is bound up, the screw extractor will snap, then you'll have 2 problems. 1. there a broken bolt stuck in the head, 2. it has a hardened steel rod in it so you wont be able to drill it out.

 

[mob]

how exactly does that work? If you screw those into the broken bolt, then try to back it out wont it just come out the same way it went in? Or will it pull the bolt with is? Maybe a dumb concept but I dont see it

 

[795.0pacecar]

Its threads are reversed. It digs in while causing the bolt to back out. Thats the theory of them anyhow, 80%-90% of the time I've used them they just snap off.

 

[90NotchBack]

I think you wont have a problem. The bolts been out not to long ago right?. The only time I had problems is when the bolt was all rusted up and has been in there for a couple of years.

 

[mob]

if the extractor breaks in the bolt cant i just put vice grips around it and back it out? And how big do i drill the hole for the extractor? Im kinda confused as to how it works still, maybe theyll come with instructions.