- Mar 3, 2010
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You know I was thinking about that, well actually thinking about buying a trac lok that would make it to where it was posi. I have no idea what that entails, or what rebuilding would do.
Progress Thread My centrifugal ppl, how’s this deal?
- Thread starter Reddevil91
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I would not do that if I were you. Particularly, if this is a street car.
The TracLok in our 8.8s is pretty damned good at what it does. The only thing out there better for the street IMO is an Eaton True-Track and they are BIG $$$$$.
Rebuild that thing with the extra clutch and a Kevlar pack and it will do the job. Mine holds up metric
ton of torque and does very well....and... I can still turn without chirping tires or ratcheting differentials that sounds like the ass is falling out of it.Detroit Lockers are for guys who Drive the Car to the track, race, then drive home.
- Mar 3, 2010
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Thanks for the info. How hard is it to rebuild and what kit and where would I find it.I would not do that if I were you. Particularly, if this is a street car.
The TracLok in our 8.8s is pretty damned good at what it does. The only thing out there better for the street IMO is an Eaton True-Track and they are BIG $$$$$.
Rebuild that thing with the extra clutch and a Kevlar pack and it will do the job. Mine holds up metric
Detroit Lockers are for guys who Drive the Car to the track, race, then drive home.
- Mar 3, 2010
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So one I have no idea what the heck I’m doing. So extra for what?????? Two- is this what I would need to rebuild it, or is there something cheaper, and three- is there a how to for dumbies!!
- Mar 3, 2010
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- Mar 3, 2010
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Alright well all the old lines are out, but think instead of trying to cut and flare my old lines which I don’t know how to do, don’t have the tools to do so, I’m going to buy the new hardline’s from LMR that are pre made and cut for drum to disc conversions as well as a new upper axles hose. Gonna attempt rebuilding my trak loc and hopefully I don’t run into any issues. I’ve been contemplating buying a new diff cover instead of just painting the stock one but haven’t decided yet. Do you all know if this would fit. I know it says it’s for 8.8 so should work, like that the fill and drain is up front and gives it a cool look. Anyone changed theirs or just using the stock cover? Also what did you guys do with your stock brake stuff. I’ve posted it on Craig’s for basically nothing, couple of interests but I’m tired of seeing it in my garage and probably just gonna toss it.
- Mar 3, 2010
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I got everything in the bed of my truck, I’m ready to just junk it. I don’t like clutter!!! Did drill and get my brackets mounted today. Just want to be done with this brake job already. I had no intentions on rebuilding the trac lok but don’t think it’s ever been done and might as well if it’s open other wise I’d slide those axles and everything in. Painted up my diff cover looks a lot better, maybe I’ll just re use it but I’m tempted to buy that one I posted, wish I could just do the same to the rear. Old lines are out as well, need to clean my drive shaft up.
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Wooo man it’s been a minute, got busy with some things, just been getting a little in when I can. Made some goood progress today!! On the rear calipers and pads and even the front is there something I need to do to them? I basically just pushed the front pads in ten mounted them, as for the rear which I did today, I installed the bracket, then slipped the pads in, and mounted the piston part and tightened everything to spec, but am I suppose to push the pads back against the piston side and on the other side so they touch those parts? Taking a brake now bc the wife said I’ve spent to long on the car today lol. Need to run the new cables, and start with the e brake part which I’m worried about but I’m gonna try it. Also rebuilt my trac-lok got everything in, cleaned up the entire rear end which I’m really happy about, but I watched a video where they torqued the new pin bolt to 15-20 ft/lbs did everyone else do this or can I just give it some of my good old germexican strength when I tighten it? I’ll post some pics of the rear end clean up once I get this answer and tighten that bolt and throw the diff cover back on. Looks like it’s gonna be tight in the back, so quads probably coming off or flipped.
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When you bleed the brakes, the pistons should expand. Once done, a few pumps of the pedal should fully expand them.
- Mar 3, 2010
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Ok gotcha, so I torqued all the bolts to spec on the rear brakes, but what about this one? When I tighten it, the little shim thing where the rubber boot is spins. Not sure how tight that is suppose to be.
There are a wrench flat on the inside guide right next to the boot. Hold it with one wrench and tighten up the bolt.
Make it tight but not too crazy
Make it tight but not too crazy
- Mar 3, 2010
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So cleaned up the rear end while i was redoing the trac-lok. It’s was nasty and greasy. Sprayed some degreaser, wire brushed, light grit sand paper and some chassis paint. It’s no por 15 job but looks way better than before. Little before and after. Liking my new lines to that made by passing all that cutting and flaring simple.
Boostedpimp
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
Are you going to take a 4lb hammer to those inner fender wells or deal with it once the rubbing starts?
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Ha man honestly idk what to do!! So I went to a place here in Austin and talked to them about rolling my fenders. They supposedly have a machine they use, idk any other machine besides a hand roller but they quoted me a couple hundred dollars 200ish. Now idk what else I’d need to do besides that for the lips and inner wheel well. I don’t know if I should go with that option or just buy a roller on eBay for 50-60 bucks and give it a go myself. I don’t want to mess up my fenders or my paint even though I’d like to eventually have the car repainted.
200-ish? Let em do it or buy the tool on-line. If you buy the tool, you'll also need a heat gun.
If you let them do it, they'll heat the paint blah blah blah.
If you let them do it, they'll heat the paint blah blah blah.
- Mar 3, 2010
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Yeah they said about 60/hr and each fender would be about an hour. So $240-250, but do you think that’s crazy? At least I know it would be done right. I have a heat gun from harbor but it’s nothing fancy just a 15 dollar Chicago or whatever brand it was. Guess I’m afraid to mess it up and then crack up the paint.
