My DIY turbo kit is underway...PICS!!!...AGAIN!!!

VG30DE · Oct 12, 2006

Nice job, way cleaner than mine. All my stuff is crush bent at a muffler shop. I'm still running E7 heads, so you should be a world ahead of me once its running good.....

Happy boosting~!

5literttop · Oct 12, 2006

Very nice build! I know what you mean about being away from your project car, but 2-3 hours away! I thought I had it bad when mine is 30 mins away! LOL

Daggar · Oct 12, 2006

millhouse --

Moving your thread to Tech for obvious reasons and to make your thread searchable.

Keep up the great work!

Mr. Rustypwnz · Oct 13, 2006

I bet that sucker will haul some (m)ass now!!!

muttstang · Oct 13, 2006

Millhouse this is off topic but what did you do to your dash lights to get them that blue colour.

By the way excellent job on the DIY.

grey5.0beast · Oct 13, 2006

i believe he puy in blue led's behind the cluster.

old_blue · Oct 13, 2006

where is the video we were promised?

ritc · Oct 13, 2006

Did you end up going with a custom/self-made downpipe back exhaust system or did you mate it to h-pipe/xpipe setup?

Im curious as to how loud a setup like that would to run custom side exit pipin from the downpipe with no cats...

millhouse · Oct 13, 2006

Yeah yeah…no video yet. I've got some friends who said they would videotape the dyno run if/when it happens.

As far as the blue cluster goes….you can check that out here… http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=634260&highlight=blue+led

Ritc, as far as the downpipe went I made it myself. I was going to mate it to the stock location of the o/r h-pipe but that quickly became impossible. I ended up hacking up my full length o/r h-pipe down to the size of a shorty. As far as loudness goes…the turbo's quite everything down quite a bit. It also seems to calm the cam down a bit as well.

Oh...and Dagg....it's about damn time!

ritc · Oct 26, 2006

millhouse said:
Another engine shot. It's a bit more tidy...although not really cleaner. I've added some t3 turbine blankets and revised the manner in which I'm evacuating the cranckcase. Out are the breathers and in are some epoxied soda can baffles, valve cover pcv valves, oil seperator, some moroso ultra 40 wires and a bit of heat shielding hear and there.

What pipes did you run on the inlet side of the turbo? Looks like you have two vaccum lines connecting the turbos and runnig down the center of the motor? What are those for and couldnt you have put two filter right on the inlets? Or are those bolted pipes required to run those t60 turbos?

Im asking cause im going junkyard shopping soon and want to know what turbos to look for and what I would need them to come with, did you buy yours used or new somewhere else?

Also in this picture did you extend the factory O2's to that location or is that a wideband? and what is the other plug to the right of it?

iwashmycar · Oct 26, 2006

89Notch · Oct 26, 2006

Good luck not overheating

Flavadave4 · Oct 26, 2006

cool, cant wait to see some times!

millhouse · Oct 26, 2006

ritc said:
What pipes did you run on the inlet side of the turbo? Looks like you have two vaccum lines connecting the turbos and runnig down the center of the motor? What are those for and couldnt you have put two filter right on the inlets? Or are those bolted pipes required to run those t60 turbos?

Im asking cause im going junkyard shopping soon and want to know what turbos to look for and what I would need them to come with, did you buy yours used or new somewhere else?

Also in this picture did you extend the factory O2's to that location or is that a wideband? and what is the other plug to the right of it?

On the inlet sides the "pipes" are nothing more than the factory turbocoupe inlet housings. With that setup there is no room for filters…so I threw on a few layers of various sized/material screen mesh and topped it off with a couple of layers of pantyhose. There is virtually no restriction at all.

As far as the Vacuum lines go…the compressor inlet is the only location on a turbo setup that has constant vacuum. I have the vacuum lines t'd together into the oil/water separator seen on the fender well where the a/c canister used to be. From there it t's off into each valve cover to provided with adequate crankcase ventilation and better ring seal under boost.

The turbo's I bought used…although I was a bit cautious about it. One had a nice shiny rebuild plaque on the compressor housing while the other looked in almost as good of shape. They come on pre-87 turbocoupes…although the exact years I cannot recall. A quick search here or at turbomustangs.com should help you out a bit more in that area.

The 02 sensors are the ones located closest to the swingvalves on the downpipes. The stock wiring is surprisingly long…and no extension was required, just some re-routing. The 3rd bung is where I located the wideband. You can see in my last pic that I plugged the main 02 bungs and am now only running a wideband…as the megasquirt ecu can be controlled with just the one.

millhouse · Oct 26, 2006

89Notch said:
Good luck not overheating

With the 99 v6 fan…she stays at 185-195 in mid-summer heat.

ritc · Oct 26, 2006

Did you get the turbo's from a manual turbocoupe or auto? Do they come with the correct wastegates to build at least 6-8PSI or do I need to buy something else for them?

Also which one do you have because I see one is watercooled and the other is oil fed:

FORD T-Bird 85-86 2.3L (auto) GAR (AiR) TB0344 (45 trim oil only)
FORD T-Bird 85-86 2.3L (Manual) GAR (AiR) TB03 60 trim (watercooled)

Got it from here: http://www.turbomustangs.com/smf/index.php?topic=4365.0

I like your setup seems pretty straightfoward only thing confusin me right now is did you have to splice any wires to run that 3.5"(90mm) MAF that you had before the squirter? Will any Pro-M universal work as long as there programmed for the 42lbs injectors? Where did you have the MAF mounted, pass. fender? Would a BOV go before or after the MAF? And when you ordered the B&G headers did the flange they come with the turbo fit just right or do you tell them what turbo you plan on running first when you order them?

millhouse · Oct 26, 2006

ritc said:
Did you get the turbo's from a manual turbocoupe or auto? Do they come with the correct wastegates to build at least 6-8PSI or do I need to buy something else for them?

Also which one do you have because I see one is watercooled and the other is oil fed:

FORD T-Bird 85-86 2.3L (auto) GAR (AiR) TB0344 (45 trim oil only)
FORD T-Bird 85-86 2.3L (Manual) GAR (AiR) TB03 60 trim (watercooled)

Got it from here: http://www.turbomustangs.com/smf/index.php?topic=4365.0

I like your setup seems pretty straightfoward only thing confusin me right now is did you have to splice any wires to run that 3.5"(90mm) MAF that you had before the squirter? Will any Pro-M universal work as long as there programmed for the 42lbs injectors? Where did you have the MAF mounted, pass. fender? Would a BOV go before or after the MAF? And when you ordered the B&G headers did the flange they come with the turbo fit just right or do you tell them what turbo you plan on running first when you order them?

The only difference between the auto and manual tubo is one has a .48 housing and one has a .63. I beleive the both should be watercooled for those years. The .63 housings are more desireable...however you can use the .48's and switch to the .63 housings any time you want. They are interchangeable. I myself am using the .48's as they are easier to find. I also have one watercooled and one oil cooled turbo. They are a bit of a pain to plumb to the cooling system....and some argue that due to the open air in the 5.0 engine bay, the cooling is not even needed.

As far as the wasegates go, they are factory set to 8psi. If you have an intercooler you should figure a loss of ~ .5-1 psi from restriction.

The maf I used was cal'd for a 96-98 mustang. I modified the pigtail to fit into the connector and lengthened the wires to the meter. The maf was mounted in the passenger side fenderwell...and if you plan on using a bof and a maf, you'll need to mount the bov before the meter so you dont vent metered air.

The B&G headers come with any flange you want. The t3 flange is what is on the turbocoupe turbos...and the fit is perfect.

ritc · Oct 26, 2006

Thanks a lot for the all the answers you cleared up a lot for me glad to have members llike you on here that liked to have there brains picked , what I asked was what I was most concerned about because as far as the hotside plumbing and intercooler piping which doesnt seem like much from your setup will be taken care of by a family friend who's a 20yr+ metal fabricator so basically i'd be payin just for material.

So from what your sayin that the stock .45trims come with 8lbs springs, I should just be able to put them both on with an intercooler with similiar dimensions to yours and expect somewhere around 6-7PSI? About the MAF's would a Pro-M calibrated for 42lbs for my 91 require no modification like your 96-98 MAF needed?(other than the lengthened wires)

And what do you mean by you have one watercooled and another oil? Can the 85-87 turbo's be watercooled and/or oil cooled? And by the people you mention that say they wouldnt need to be watercooled, would that mean I would just run oil feed and drain to the turbo's and be done with it? One more question about the hotside outlet on the turbo is there a custom flange that to be bolted there to go into a 2.5"/3" downpipe or is something an exhaust/fabrication place can work with?

What would have to be removed from this turbo to make it work: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1985...ryZ33742QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I just wanna know what to look for and take with me when I go lookin for good condtions one in the junkyard.

millhouse · Oct 26, 2006

Hey...no problem.

Actually...both are considered 60 trim t3 turbos. I'd say 6psi is on the low side. I'd expect 7-8psi with a similar sized/effeciency intercooler. There is no spring..but rather a diaphram in the wastegate.

I'm not sure what year your stang is...but if it's 87-93 it should be fine.

I have no Idea which ones are oil cooled and which ones are water...nor why. I know that they both exist...and both have the same internals. You dont need to run the cooling lines to the centersection as I stated before...so they would just be oil cooled regardless.

You have a couple of options on the hotside outlet. You could do what I did and chop the housing that the wastegate attaches to. This is commonly known as the swing valve. You would then weld the downpipe to the cut swingvalve and be done with it. You could also buy a volvo swingvalve assembly which has a 3 bolt mounting flange. You would have to buy/fabricate a mating flange to the swingvalve. A search on turbomustangs should clear up any confusion.

As far as removing from the turbo...you'll need to just remove the header. Everything else should be useable.

One more thing...here is a link on how to modify the stock wastegates to a lower boost level. This is the only way I know of to do so with the factory style setup.

http://www.denverspeed.com/wastegates.html

millhouse · Mar 21, 2008

Just an update. I'm re-posting the pics as my old hosting site went down. I'm adding some dyno results and vid's at the bottom of this post. Soo....well start with the hotside....

Drivers side...

Passenger side...

My DIY turbo kit is underway...PICS!!!...AGAIN!!!

VG30DE

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