My experience with front disc brake conversion (discbrakeswap.com)

Hi,

This post is to document my experiences with the SWAP1 kit from Dennis at Discbrakeswap.com. I put these on my 1969 Mustang Coupe that has the original 302-2v engine, C4, power steering, air conditioning and non-power drum brakes. I am also using 15x7 Magnum 500 wheels on 60 series BFG Radial T/A tires.

I only had to use two fabricated hard lines, everything else hooked up per the stock locations. This was to plumb in the proportioning valve. The valve is hidden under the master cylinder and is free hanging. I think I will zip tie it to the master cylinder for extra insurance. I also had a custom 90 degree fitting made to connect the line coming off the residual pressure valve to the hard line running to the rear brakes. I probably could have found a pre-made one but wasn't all that sure or could have bent the hard line better to use a normal coupler. Anyways, this was my course of action, pricey but it worked!

The kit came well packed with a complete and clear packing list so I could be sure that there were no missing parts. You get loc-tite, grease, etc only fluid I had to pick up was DOT 3 brake fluid.

The dust caps were a pain to tap on. Ended up grinding the little interference nubs down slightly on the inside of the caps to make them easier to install though they are still on firmly.

The spindle nut was just a TINY bit too small for my application. It would start to go on and then bind up quickly. I reused the stock one, no big deal.

The crossover tubes were kind of a pain to install on the calipers you had to start one side and as it went in the other side would line up with the hole in the caliper so you could then tighten it up. I had a problem with one trying to cross-thread but eventually I got it to go in true.

The OEM master cylinder has 9/16-18 and 1/2-20 ports while the one in the kit has 7/16-24 and 3/8-24 ports. I had a heck of a time dealing with this issue. I could not remove the original hard lines from the distribution block even with the use of penetrating oil and a hammer and flare wrenches etc. The only thing I didn't try was throwing heat at the connectors. I was able to purchase a 1/2-20 female to 7/17-24 male adapter fitting from Hydraulicstore.com - Call toll-free 877-778-3533 item #1053111. I could NOT find a 9/16-18 to 3/8-24 fitting ANYWHERE. I ended up buying a 9/16 to 1/2 fitting and have a machine shop turn the 1/2 end to 3/8 and rethread. This worked!! Just a heads up if you want to go my route and get these adapters done up front.

The rubber brakes lines hooked up to the factory locations, instructions said you may need to relocate the straighten out hard lines. I had no issue with binding by using the stock location.

I ground the anti-rattle clips to be a little less wide so they would not touch the rubber seals around the brake pistons.

The final setting for the proportioning valve for my setup was 1/2 turn open from full closed (with full closed still allowing fluid but the valve won't close further).

Overall I am 100% satisfied with the kit and Dennis goes above and beyond the call of duty in customer support. I would definitely recommend his kits to others looking to do a front disc brake swap.

Feel free to ask questions as I might have left something interesting out.

Thanks!
Chad

Pictures below----

Showing new tubing....


Showing final connections and master cylinder in place (note the master cylinder adapters)...


TRYING to show the proportioning valve hidden under master cylinder...


Shot showing off custom 90 degree connector to the rear brakes hard line...


Shot of brake kit on passenger side...


Shot showing connection new flex brake line to existing hard lines...


Shot showing the conversion with the Magnum 500 wheel on...

You could do the install in less than 8 hours if everything goes smoothly (ie. old tubing comes loose easily, you have whatever fittings you may need, and can bend up your new tubing without much pain).

I found that I needed a little more grease for the bearings than came in the kit and picked up a can. I used the grease in a plastic baggie method to pack the bearings and keep my hands somewhat clean. If you put the grease in your hands and packed the bearings that way, you probably wouldn't need additional.