What sucks the most,
a) having lots of time for a build and no money
b) having the money and no time to build?
I'm b.
a) having lots of time for a build and no money
b) having the money and no time to build?
I'm b.
It seems to be gaining popularity lately. When guys decide to buy a 8.2 deck Dart block they don't even think about doing a 331 anymore and when they start thinking about doing a 347 they say the same thing I told myself, "It's a dart block, Craig. Go big or go home!!!" So 363 it is.Good luck! Lol. Your engine/trans combo are what I hope to do in the next 18 months or so.
363 ? who builds those turds! G/ L buddy looking foward to more progress.It seems to be gaining popularity lately. When guys decide to buy a 8.2 deck Dart block they don't even think about doing a 331 anymore and when they start thinking about doing a 347 they say the same thing I told myself, "It's a dart block, Craig. Go big or go home!!!" So 363 it is.
It is my understanding you can sleeve a dart block if needed.I always thought that a 363 was a block killer. 4.125 max bore leaves exactly nothing left to bore out if some unforeseen OMG happens, and causes some cylinder wall scoring calamity. As expensive as the bare block is, and like it has been said earlier, once a wheezer is on there the few extra HP/TQ that could be gained by boring is just a matter of a pound or more boost.
Save the cylinder walls....you may be glad there's something left to bore out one day.
Mike 4.125" isn't the max you can bore a Dart block 4.185 is. So, you can still bore as much as .060 over 4.125.I always thought that a 363 was a block killer. 4.125 max bore leaves exactly nothing left to bore out if some unforeseen OMG happens, and causes some cylinder wall scoring calamity. As expensive as the bare block is, and like it has been said earlier, once a wheezer is on there the few extra HP/TQ that could be gained by boring is just a matter of a pound or more boost.
Save the cylinder walls....you may be glad there's something left to bore out one day.
Yeah, I've never heard of anybody having this issue with UPR k-members. I already have it set in my mind that I'm going to purchase a UPR k-member from UPR....not somebody selling one on Craigslist. The reason I trusted it was because all the other parts like the coilover parts and spring were UPR so I just assumed it was the mild steal k-member from UPR because its black and that's the color of the mild steal ones from UPR.I've had a couple of UPR K members, never had an issue like that. Maybe it's the mounts?