My Second Fox

FoxyNate · May 2, 2021

here is all the rust spots on strut towers, on either side of wheel well

FoxyNate · May 3, 2021

Also can anyone tell me if this is an original engine?
It seems like it might be a Ford Explorer transplant...

7991LXnSHO · May 3, 2021

5.0 manifold and stock headers. Why do you think explorer?

FoxyNate · May 3, 2021

7991LXnSHO said:
5.0 manifold and stock headers. Why do you think explorer?

Diagonal spark plugs, for some reason thought that was a gt40 thing

Mstng93SSP · May 3, 2021

Do you have some rust? Yes. Is it beyond repair? I'm going with Hell no it's not beyond repair. It needs to be fixed but I have seen WAY WORSE get fixed than what I see in these pictures. The best thing you could do right now is clean that up with a wire brush and get some rust inhibitor on it Keep the car as dry as possible (garage, car port or even a very good cover) and I think this car can live a long life if you get after it now.

Chris

7991LXnSHO · May 3, 2021

FoxyNate said:
Diagonal spark plugs, for some reason thought that was a gt40 thing

I will have to look at the plugs on my E7 heads. Here is an E7TE head and a Gt40p head ends.

FoxyNate · May 3, 2021

Mstng93SSP said:
Do you have some rust? Yes. Is it beyond repair? I'm going with Hell no it's not beyond repair. It needs to be fixed but I have seen WAY WORSE get fixed than what I see in these pictures. The best thing you could do right now is clean that up with a wire brush and get some rust inhibitor on it Keep the car as dry as possible (garage, car port or even a very good cover) and I think this car can live a long life if you get after it now.

Chris

So I'll sand it down, hit it with DOT 15 spray and some epoxy, DIY paint job (shopping for a badass air compressor) and might get some LX accoutrements
That's after replacing radiator and fuel pump.

After that... go fast parts? Might do a tune up, new plugs, wires, PVC valve, I already know timing is right at 10 degrees...

Is replacing 2:75 with 3:55 something that's hard for a newbie? Thinking of folding that in with differential fluid change

FoxyNate · May 3, 2021

7991LXnSHO said:
I will have to look at the plugs on my E7 heads. Here is an E7TE head and a Gt40p head ends.

I'll look closer at E7 heads online too.
I am mostly wondering in case I need to double check if the person who theoretically did an engine swap also applied the other necessary parts needed for an explorer 5.0 swap. Obviously a little new at this, just trying to go through and clean up any mistakes the last 2 owners made

Mstng93SSP · May 4, 2021

Gear swaps are not for the inexperienced....at all.....

FoxyNate · May 4, 2021

Mstng93SSP said:
Gear swaps are not for the inexperienced....at all.....

Thanks!
Of course YouTube videos make it seem like a 15 minute project done with some duct tape, popsicle sticks, and a screwdriver

a91what · May 4, 2021

FoxyNate said:
Thanks!
Of course YouTube videos make it seem like a 15 minute project done with some duct tape, popsicle sticks, and a screwdriver

ppfftt I put my entire car together with less.

FoxyNate · May 4, 2021

for the first time in my life put a car up on jack stands

time to flush brake fluid, change transmission fluid, and change differential fluid

Seems like differential fluid started dripping out of driver rear wheel when I lifted it up. Is that a common thing? Nothing seems loose

7991LXnSHO · May 4, 2021

You need a new seal, so here is one.
The axle seal is leaking. Check the bearing for play and noise while you have the axle out.

Mstng93SSP · May 4, 2021

I don't like your rear jack stand location. I am a HUGE proponent of proper jack stand usage. You can put them under the rear frame rail, the curve of the stand (the part the car actually sits on) will cradle the frame rail. Where you have them now it is too easy for the rear diff to move and then stand to slip.

FoxyNate · May 4, 2021

Mstng93SSP said:
I don't like your rear jack stand location. I am a HUGE proponent of proper jack stand usage. You can put them under the rear frame rail, the curve of the stand (the part the car actually sits on) will cradle the frame rail. Where you have them now it is too easy for the rear diff to move and then stand to slip.

Thank you! It’s a pretty important thing.
Mechanic suggested that location.

Front ones are up under control arms (where they meet the frame, near two bolts there) is that ok?

Mstng93SSP · May 4, 2021

I prefer frame rails front and rear. They don't move. Suspension parts move.

90sickfox · May 4, 2021

I've never had a problem with Jack stands under the rear axle. However, with the rear stands under the frame it will allow the rear to droop a little more giving better access to the diff cover.

Like stated above...the stands are safer under the frame section.

FoxyNate · May 4, 2021

Got it, jackstands on frame

just did a brake flush! (Biggest job I’ve done so far )

FoxyNate · May 12, 2021

So,
Everything I’ve touched has been stuck/seized so far

any tips on keeping things from seizing later? Replacing all rusted bolts with zinc ones I think
Also applying some wax coating... or antisieze?
Painting threads with POR 15?

for rubber seals... vasoline?

going to try and get my fuel line connector off the gas tank again, soaked in in PB oil

PS how do I keep from lighting my car on fire in a fit of frustration

7991LXnSHO · May 12, 2021

Anti-sneeze on any bolt that goes into aluminum is a really good idea. I prefer the big, silver crayon to the brush cap in a bottle because of less mess, (and maybe I color better than I paint.)
At least grease anything you want to come apart again. Steering and suspension are exceptions to that.

My Second Fox

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wanna catch the space herp

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You have a nice rear end there Dave.

wanna catch the space herp

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You have a nice rear end there Dave.

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wanna catch the space herp

You have a nice rear end there Dave.

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You have a nice rear end there Dave.

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands

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