N/A boost

[JamesBaumann]

Here's a topic starter. I had a thought today. I have read on this forum that some guys have boosted there naturally aspirated motors without pulling it apart and putting in forged pistons/oil return line. I also thought I read somewhere that 1psi of boost is worth about 7hp. Correct? So, would I have a problem with running about 5-6 psi of boost on my n/a motor? That should theoretically give me somewhere around an extra 35-42hp, seems like a worthwhile mod to me. So, is there anything stopping me from just bolting up a t3 turbo or something and setting it to around 5-6psi of boost and letting fly?

If I can get around another 35-42 hp, then that combined with the CAI, exhuast and the head mods (port&polish, roller cam & followers, milled potentially, oversize valves potentially) which are all underway as we speak by the way I should be looking at somewhere near 200hp, probably a little less, but somewhere between 150hp-200hp anyway. Thanks for any help you can give me.

 

[BELL]

your better off putting the 2.3t motor in, just as much time to pull the head as it is to swap the engine. You'll be far happier with the turbo block then trying to outfit a n/a block to make it work. Your machine work for the n/a head is a waste of money. Use the 2.3t head if your going to do all that stuff... just my opinion

 

[Stinger]

Well, they didn't just "bolt it on" and go...they also did the "turbo swap" minus the actual turbo motor. They swapped computers, vam, did the wiring changes, swapped injectors, etc.

IF you do all of that, sure...go for it.

 

[JamesBaumann]

your better off putting the 2.3t motor in, just as much time to pull the head as it is to swap the engine. You'll be far happier with the turbo block then trying to outfit a n/a block to make it work. Your machine work for the n/a head is a waste of money. Use the 2.3t head if your going to do all that stuff... just my opinion

The n/a head work is already underway. I know that I'd be better off with a turbo motor, but I'm not going to swap one in. The only thing I wanted to know is will it work running only a few psi of boost. If it won't, then I simply wont turbo at all.

 

[JamesBaumann]

Well, they didn't just "bolt it on" and go...they also did the "turbo swap" minus the actual turbo motor. They swapped computers, vam, did the wiring changes, swapped injectors, etc.

IF you do all of that, sure...go for it.

Alright, that was helpful. I'm thinking that considering all the other turbo swap stuff is required then I would be better off just swapping in a whole turbo motor. We'll see where things take me. How much psi of boost can i run without blowing up a n/a motor?

 

[Willy0314]

Its not how much boost you can run, its how much HP you can make. Boost is a measure of how much resistance the intake charge has as its trying to make its way into the motor. Example: If you have a turbo motor, take it apart, port the head and intake, and bolt it back together making no other changes.... your boost will drop, but you will be making more HP. Considering your having head work done, how much boost you can run depends on the extent of the porting, the overall condition of the motor and the tune up / setup for the turbo and how hard you drive it. I wouldn't be surprised if you put a con-rod threw the oil pan before 10psi tho.

 

[MSM0075]

If your going to go through all of that, Just find a complete turbo motor for a couple hundred.

Hell I got a complete working '87 TC for 350$

 

[bhuff30]

I did it as stinger described. Ran great until the vacume hose popped off the fpr and caused fuel pressure to drop 15psi.

 

[JamesBaumann]

I did it as stinger described. Ran great until the vacume hose popped off the fpr and caused fuel pressure to drop 15psi.

How much psi were you running?

 

[bhuff30]

How much psi were you running?

was running 9, got greedy and went to 15 without a problem.

 

[Stinger]

The rods and crank are the same as the turbo motors. The only difference is the cast pistons and higher compression ratio.

If you don't go lean, detonate, etc., I don't see why you couldn't run 20psi. The problem is cast pistons like to destroy themselves at the first sign of trouble, which is bound to happen at some point (bad tune, detonation, a sneeze, whatever). When that happens, you take out the block as well.

 

[JamesBaumann]

All this will give me somethig to think about. However, Im thinking that considering the fact that I am probably going to have my head milled out some, that will increase my compression ratio even higher and could cause more trouble. I think what I'll do is start a 2.3T project on a different Mustang, not this one. I was just hoping that I would be able to run somewhere around 7psi without too many mods, therefore giving me approximately another 50hp or so to put me up at around 200.

 

[WANNA_BE_GT]

Hey man, I was doing the same thing before I bought the Saleen and I have a set of brand new in the box 2.3L forged pistons. They are 9:1 and I was gonna run that with the turbo. You should have fun with those, and I just wanna get rid of them. PM me man

 

[mr_woodster]

9:1 flat tops? why the heck did you get such a high compression ratio piston for a turbo motor? Those are stock replacements for the carb-drawthru turbo's in the late 70's early 80's. I wouldnt recomend using them in a car that you'd like to make Good boosted power out of.