I replaced it with LRS-8793XSHM from Late Model Restoration. It says 91-93 for manual transmission. I do know that it only allows the correct 5 volts to the ECM as opposed to the harness for autos which allow 12 volts and will fry a manual ECM. Don't ask me how I know that. I assume you are addressing the O2 related codes.Did you replace the 02 harness at all? It HAS to be for a 90
Ok. I checked the harness pigtail for the proper jumper sequence for a 1988 (CA)-1990. It was jumpered correctly (i.e., 1 & 5).Did you replace the 02 harness at all? It HAS to be for a 90
Man I wish I could help you on the pinouts, but I've offered up all the information I have. @jrichker could probably shed some light on it for you.Ok. I checked the harness pigtail for the proper jumper sequence for a 1988 (CA)-1990. It was jumpered correctly (i.e., 1 & 5).
Next, I disconnected both O2s, turned the car on, and checked the grey wire with a DVM. From what I understand, there should be 12v there in order to heat the O2s, but the meter read no higher than mV on either side. Thoughts?
If @jrichker doesn't come into your thread to help you then I would post this in the tech area where he spends a lot of his time (or so it seems to me). Best of luck!Update: Codes, Yuck!
KOEO = none
Continuous Memory =
41 HEGO sensor voltage low / system lean (and/or) No HO2S switching detected.
91 HEGO sensor signal out of range /always lean.
96 Fuel pump secondary circuit / high speed fuel pump relay open.
Interestingly, my O2 sensors have less that 100 miles on them. As for code 96, I'm not exactly sure what's wrong. The fuel pump seems to work fine. Any thoughts?
I cannot get any KOER codes until Continuous is fixed because they could be invalid.
Thanks. I started a conversation. We will see if he responds.If @jrichker doesn't come into your thread to help you then I would post this in the tech area where he spends a lot of his time (or so it seems to me). Best of luck!
That's awesome! I'm also a bit overwhelmed and lost. What do you suggest I check?If you didn't get a code 67, there is no reason why you can't get accurate engine running codes. Code 67 prevents you from getting the engine running codes. Dump the codes and try again.
The O2 sensor harness is the same from 88-9.3 The qualifier is that Auto transmission O2 sensor harnesses are different from manual transmission harnesses.
The green/yellow wire is the 12 volts for the O2 sensor heater, the black/gray wire is the signal & heater power ground, other wire is the O2 sensor output. The sensor wiring is Teflon insulated to survive the high heat around the exhaust system. Use regular insulated wire on the O2 sensors and the heat from the exhaust will melt or damage the wire's insulation.
The numbers on the sensor body match the numbers on the sensor socket. That shows you what wires are the heater, ground and sensor outputs.
60 is the sensor and heater ground. It terminates up in the engine fuel injector harness with an orange wire that bolts to either the back of the cylinder head, intake manifold or car body. Make sure this is grounded if you want the O2 sensors to work correctly.
90 (dark brown/lt green)& 94 (dark green/Purple) are the O2 sensor outputs.
687 is the 12 volt O2 sensor heater power that connects to a fuse link in the wiring harness. There is a fuse link for the O2 sensor heater power. According to Ranchero50, it is in the wiring near the passenger side hood hinge. Measuring the voltages will give a clue if it has shorted to the O2 sensor signal lead. The O2 sensor voltage should switch between .2-.9 volt at idle.
The diagram for the O2 sensor harness is below:
Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds
nsor wiring is the same for 87-93 5.0 Mustangs [/b]
View attachment 555760ication
Originally Posted by 302EFI [/b]
Revised 16-Oct-2011 to add O2 sensor harness warnings
The wires for the 02's and low oil did not change throughout the years, they are all in the same place.
The main ones you need to worry about are (on the harness end (ECU) that plugs into the 02 plug) is:
\- 1. Lightblue / yellow
- 2. White / Purple
- 3. Purple / Yellow
The White/Purple & Purple/Yellow gets looped for a automatic ECU
The Purple/Yellow & Lightblue/Yellow for a manual ECU
View attachment 555761
Not all wires are shown for clarity and simplicity
See http://forums.corral.net/forums/gen...manual-auto-differences-year-differences.html for more O2 sensor wiring harness info
Basic premise to use with transmission swaps:
Only run a 5 speed trans O2 harness with an A9L. Do not run an Auto O2 sensor harness with an A9L. Doing so will damage the computer’s internal signal ground.
Only run an Auto trans O2 sensor harness with an A9P in a car that has an Auto trans. Using a 5 speed trans O2 sensor harness with an Auto trans will cause no crank problems.
See http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/749974-computer-issue.html#post7490537 for Joel5.0’s fix to the computer internal signal ground.
The 4 cylinder O2 harness uses 4 wire O2 sensors. It won’t work correctly without modifying it.
See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ Everyone should bookmark this site.
Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif
Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif
Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif
Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 91-93 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/91-93_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif
Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg
HVAC vacuum diagram
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Mustang_AC_heat_vacuum_controls.gif
TFI module differences & pinout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/TFI_5.0_comparison.gif
Fuse box layout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/MustangFuseBox.gif
Start at the top and work your way to the bottom. That way, you will have looked at all the possibilities and not miss the second or third item that might be incorrectThat's awesome! I'm also a bit overwhelmed and lost. What do you suggest I check?
Thank you.
I'll do my best. I'll attach some pics of, I think, related Fuse Links. I'd like to see what you think. I think the 20 GA connected to the solenoid might be related to the lack of 12v to the O2s. The other is what I believe to be the ECM ground.Start at the top and work your way to the bottom. That way, you will have looked at all the possibilities and not miss the second or third item that might be incorrect
I'm an electrical idiot. How do I check continuity? What should the reading be? What ground wire?
This does not look like an issue to me. Have you checked continuity?
The ground wire should be fixed/soldered.
I'm an electrical idiot. How do I check continuity? What should the reading be? What ground wire?
I have access to all those supplies. My landlord lets me use his. He is an electrician. He doesn't necessarily have the time to help me diag, but I can use his stuff.Ah.... Do you possess a multi-meter?
If not, we need to begin with you getting your hands on one or buying a cheap one then watching a couple youtube videos.
You will also need a crimper, a wire stripper, and soldering iron. Probably a few connectors too.
There's some rambling in this but otherwise:
View: https://youtu.be/TdrU38edY8M
If the location for the O2 link is as you say, then I can take a deep breath after the punch in the gut (i.e., removing dash to get to link). I don't mind unwrapping tape, especially compared to removing the dash. That's been done already (earlier in build post).The fuse link for the O2 sensor heater is over by the passenger side hood hinge bracket from what I have been told. You will have to unwrap some of the plastic tape that covers up things to get to the fuse link.
The blue 20 gauge fuse link is for the ignition coil & ECC control relay.
Diagram courtesy of TMoss & Stang&2Birds
Your #1 & then #2 plan is right on target; stick with it.
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