Progress Thread Nasty Ninety Notch

joetrainer31 · May 16, 2016

UPDATE: WIRED

Ok, so no pics because the job was difficult to reach and killing my back! I used Jrichker's diagram for the location of the orange HEGO ground wire. It comes off the engine harness for the 10 pin connectors, injectors, etc. Mine was butt connected AGAIN by someone who obviously loves those connectors. I unwrapped the harness a bit to get some slack in the wire, cut the connector out, the soldered a 6" piece of wire in between the two ends, then ended with heat shrink wrap. I pulled the ends and the solder job seemed to hold. Lastly, I slapped a label on it for future identification.

Next up, I'll R&R the injectors, plenum, and MAF...

joetrainer31 · May 16, 2016

Update: Injected

The replacement injectors arrived. They are 19lb 4 hole units rebuilt with a 2 year warranty and delivered for $100, not bad.

Here they are installed...

So, I went from 24s to 19s. Also, I'm removing the Pro-M 75mm for 24s and replacing with a stock 94/95 MAF for 19s. I did this in order to:

1) Have a more accurate air/fuel ratio thanks to a matched combo (i.e., ECM, CAM, MAF, and injectors). During my diagnostic time I want those variables out of the equation. I want the ECM and combo on the same page.

2) Have better performance. Even though my TB, MAF, intake, and heads are bigger, my camshaft (i.e., the engine's mechanical brain) is still stock. It can only allow a stock amount of air in and exhaust out. It does have 1.72 rockers, but that is not an extreme lift difference. The TB, MAF, intake, and heads should simply remove the flow restrictions for the stock cam to operate to full potential. No matter how big my heads are the stock cam will not take full advantage of their flow capabilities.

After the injectors were installed I connected the battery and engaged the fuel pump several times. I wanted to check for leaks before the upper intake went back on. None were observed.

joetrainer31 · May 17, 2016

Update: It's ALIVE!

I went for the super clean, stock look...

This set-up (i.e., 19s, stock MAF, with stock cam &1.72 rockers) is still at stock timing, no base idle reset yet, and the ECM is still learning the combo. Yet, it would CHUNG LEE the other set-up of Pro-M 75mm & 24s.

The idle is smoother (no lope), the exhaust doesn't choke you out, the throttle response is WAY more snappy, it starts faster, pulls harder, the temp is more normal now (not bone cold), and the oil pressure stays higher at idle.. Wait until the timing gets advanced and the 94/95 MAF goes in. It seems the combo is simply better matched.

Sometime after surgery I'll recheck for codes and update. Thank you Jrichker for all your electrical diagnostic help. I'll keep you informed after I recover from surgery.

joetrainer31 · May 17, 2016

Update: Air Head Question

I have a 94/95 Mustang GT/Cobra MAF sitting around with only 56,000 miles on it. I'm getting an adapter for it to fit my fox (out of curiousity). Does the sensor need to be clocked?

joetrainer31 · May 18, 2016

Anybody? @jrichker? Do I need to clock the 94/95 MAF if installing in a fox? I am using the factory air inlet. I will also be using the factory MAF bracket to steady the 94/95 MAF from the bottom.

mattyv · May 18, 2016

joetrainer31 said:
Anybody? @jrichker? Do I need to clock the 94/95 MAF if installing in a fox? I am using the factory air inlet. I will also be using the factory MAF bracket to steady the 94/95 MAF from the bottom.

I didn't clock mine when I put it in. I have a BBK CAI though. I would imagine yours will be fine as well, with the stock box

joetrainer31 · May 18, 2016

mattyv said:
I didn't clock mine when I put it in. I have a BBK CAI though. I would imagine yours will be fine as well, with the stock box

Good to know. Thank you.

A5literMan · May 18, 2016

Good luck on your surgery!

joetrainer31 · May 18, 2016

Than

A5literMan said:
Good luck on your surgery!

Thank you! It will be the third one since January. I hope this is it.

joetrainer31 · May 18, 2016

Side Note: This set-up (i.e., 308cid, X307 heads, 70mm TB, A9S ECM, 55mm MAF, 1.72 rockers, ported Explorer manifold, 355 gears, 19lb injectors, stock cam, and headers back exhaust w/2 cats) runs so much better than the same set-up with 24lb injectors & a Pro-M 75mm MAF that it's like a different car.

The idle is BUTTER smooth (great for 42 year olds who live in CA), and the exhaust note reminds me of the old days, but is also refined in tone. There really isn't a comparison between the two combos. The only thing I'm changing is the installation of the 94/95 GT MAF due to better electronics and a smoother acceleration -so I've read. The car is basically a sleeper as is.

As I thought back to a previous car, a 1995 Mustang with the dealer installed SVO GT40 package, it was set-up almost exactly as this one. The only difference was 373 gears and a 65mm TB... that and the car was much heavier being a '95 and a convertible, aaannd the '95 computer was tuned like a turd from the factory.

A Ford tech friend of mine strongly suggested this current combo due to the matched combo of the ECM, MAF, cam, and injectors. He was right. I'm reiterating this stuff in hopes of saving someone in the future from spending money where its not needed. If you have a stock cam you don't need 24s and a "calibrated" MAF.

joetrainer31 · May 24, 2016

UPDATE: Let There Be Air

In recovering from some nasty oral surgery I had a little energy for a few minutes today. So, I installed a 94/95 Mustang GT MAF with adapter (thanks @jrichker for the info). I got the adapter from Kurtz Kostomz Motorsports (model #70).

Exhibit A is the inlet side...

Then the MAF mating surface...

The adapter is great quality, not flimsy...

Fits like a glove. Just use a 10mm socket...

Directions. No gasket material or silicone needed per directions.

On the car. No support is needed it is solid once everything is tightened.

Also re-installed the driver side kick panel (Titanium Grey) while I waited for the ECM to loose its memory (i.e., 30 min). Those original door panels are going bye-bye as soon as I get the moisture barrier and new handles to go with the replacement panels (Titanium Grey too).

After I reconnected the negative battery cable I let the car idle for about 2 minutes to learn the new trim. Upon initial start-up I did notice that the exhaust had a deeper tone to it. The idle was smooth and at about 750 RPMs.

After turning off the car and putting the tools away I restarted it and went on a test drive. My initial observations:

- Better throttle response, and yes, both sensors were clean.
- Smoother acceleration.
- Better acceleration.
- Faster warm-up to operating temp.

On the last one, the warm-up; I'm speculating that the bigger/ newer sensor runs the car a smidge leaner, thus it warms up faster. Maybe someone would know better.

I hope this is helpful to anyone thinking about this mod. Its worth it. Its also worth getting the adapter from where I got it instead of eBay. This unit is not weak like many on eBay and it comes in the right size w/o trial and error, unlike many on eBay.

When I get a little better I'll take the old code reader out and see if those pesky codes are still there after the wiring repairs and intake replacement (e.g., 96, 41, & 91).

joetrainer31 · May 25, 2016

UPDATE: What Wire?

After installing a new coil cover I decided to vacuum out the trunk (carpet and floor pan). While the trunk was open and car idling I thought I could smell too much exhaust or fuel inside. So, I decided to pull all the carpet, insulation, spare tire, etc out to inspect. I did find several holes drilled in the metal (dumb), and where there was probably a battery box installed. I filled the holes with silicone, problem solved, but I also so MORE wiring fiasco! Someone needs to do jail time for wiring harness homicide! I'm tagging the wiring guru straight away for this @jrichker .

Check out some pics below and see if you can identify what I'm showing. The orientation is standing at the back bumper and looking straight down into the trunk area (i.e., driver's side = left). What is this foolishness?

1) Notice someone jumpered this plug, which is not necessarily bad, but it's TWIST-tied in! Also, the pigtail to the right? Does it connect to the jumpered wire? (By the way, what's the big hole in the floor pan?)

2) Another view, same wire...

3) Another view of the 2nd wire (right of one above), and a 3rd pigtail! What? These both come out from under the trunk carpet. The trunk latch is positioned right above these two. (And that hole again, notice the gas tank below it)

4) Here is a better pic of that 3rd pigtail. The harness to it's right comes out of the floor pan and goes into the harness that runs along the inside rear end. What. Is. It?

5) Another pic of the 3rd pigtail in question...

6) And a random pigtail end I found laying loose in a bag of parts for this car. I have no idea if its associated to any in these pics.

Your (plural) help is much appreciated!

hoopty5.0 · May 25, 2016

The jumper doo-dad looks like they bypassed the inertia switch, which cuts off your fuel pump in the event of a crash. The rest I'd have to go home and look, don't know off the top of my head.

joetrainer31 · May 25, 2016

hoopty5.0 said:
The jumper doo-dad looks like they bypassed the inertia switch, which cuts off your fuel pump in the event of a crash. The rest I'd have to go home and look, don't know off the top of my head.

Interesting. I wonder if it plugs into the pigtail immediately to the right. I'd like everything proper. Maybe you could let me know more when you get a chance?

jrichker · May 25, 2016

The hole in the bottom of the floor should have had a rubber plug. You pull the plug (pardon the pun) to drain water out of the trunk.

What are the wire color and stripe colors on the wires?

hoopty5.0 · May 25, 2016

joetrainer31 said:
Interesting. I wonder if it plugs into the pigtail immediately to the right. I'd like everything proper. Maybe you could let me know more when you get a chance?

No it plugs into the switch. The rest I'm not sure about and can't get into my trunk to look at the moment. The cut off plug might be a speaker plug.

joetrainer31 · May 25, 2016

jrichker said:
The hole in the bottom of the floor should have had a rubber plug. You pull the plug (pardon the pun) to drain water out of the trunk.

What are the wire color and stripe colors on the wires?

I'll get the color combos and get back to you. I'll probably have to get them tomorrow as I'm still recovering from surgery and already did too much today. Thanks in advance for your help!

joetrainer31 · May 25, 2016

hoopty5.0 said:
No it plugs into the switch. The rest I'm not sure about and can't get into my trunk to look at the moment. The cut off plug might be a speaker plug.

Ok. Lemme know what you come up with. That will be really helpful. I'm getting jrichker some wire colors so he can chime in too.

hoopty5.0 · May 26, 2016

I will look tonight.

joetrainer31 · May 26, 2016

jrichker said:
The hole in the bottom of the floor should have had a rubber plug. You pull the plug (pardon the pun) to drain water out of the trunk.

What are the wire color and stripe colors on the wires?

Alrighty,

The pigtail closest to the inertia switch has what looks to be a red wire w/Blk stripe, and a plain red wire. For reference:

The one to it's right (close to center of rear panel) has 3 wires total. One plug in has 2 wires going into it, and the other has a single wire. The 2 wire side is comprised of 2 black wires w/blue stripe. The 1 wire side is one solid black wire. For reference:

The next one to the right is a round pigtail. It has a green wire with a stripe that looks to be either blk, brn, or tan (wire looks faded). The other wire is black w/blue stripe. For reference:

Progress Thread Nasty Ninety Notch

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