No, I had to leave due to illness. The tech I was referencing was fired a couple/few months before I left. The guy I brought in to replace him was/is a good guy. He started going through and fixing all the other tech's hacks, but he didn't have time to get through them all before I had to leave. Now, I'm trying to do it in my apartment parking lot! That adds a level of difficulty, lol.So you don't run a meineke any more?
Nice work brother! If you throw a sub box back there it'll be even sweeter! I worked in a stereo shop when I was younger whenever a customer asked about trunk rattle it was dynamat timeUpdate: Tamed Trunk.
So, @92NOTCH01 convinced me to go ahead and put Roadkill in the trunk area. I went and inspected the trunk area. When I knocked on the bare metal pan it sounded like knocking on an empty tin-can. That is [horrible] for noise and heat transfer. Therefore, trunk taming was necessary...
First, take all the junk out of your trunk, remove the trunk carpet, and promptly place it in the washer machine or some other type of cleaning apparatus. That thing is old, stained, and it smells of automotive fluids in many cases. Just because our cars are old doesn't mean they have to be trashed.
Next, if so equipped, remove the factory insulation carpet...
Then, remove the cover to the spare tire and jack. If you don't have the cover get it. It's cheap and keeps your trunk floor level. Why should we have holes and unevenness just because our car is old?
For a coupe, make sure you have the proper rear seat back sound deadener blanket. It really does matter when it comes to heat and noise. If you don't have it LMR has them cheap.
Next, remove the spare tire, jack, etc and inspect floor pan for holes. Mine had several holes from some numbskull who was drill happy. He also had a battery in the trunk at some point. I filled all the holes with a clear silicone. I'm not a fan of exhaust fumes in the cabin.
Thoroughly vacuum the entire trunk and wipe down with alcohol...
Next, remove each side of the trunk trim carpet after deciding not to be lazy. There should be 2 push pins on each side. You may want to consider buying a box of replacement pins [before] pulling your old ones out. The pins usually deform after a use or two. Then, clean the area the trim carpet was covering...
When applying the sound deadener make sure to retain the trunk drain plugs in case of water intrusion. In order to line the holes up when laying down the deadener I simply go slow, use an ice-pic type tool to make the target (far left), then use a bigger punch (to right of pic), to bore the drain hole out...
You can cover the entire trunk area. Just make sure to make provisions for all drain plugs and the spar tire :J" bolt. I didn't measure as precisely as I should have so I had to cut some filler pieces. While it doesn't look as good as it could, it [is] under the carpet, and still does the same job.
Replace the washed carpet in the trunk, put various items back in the trunk, decide if you still want to use the factory deadener blanket/pad, and close her up!
While I did not test drive the vehicle yet I did start it up. I could already tell a difference in cabin noise reduction. The exhaust sounded like it was out back, out "there,"and separated from me instead of with me -if you know what I'm saying. I plan on test driving later and posting the review.
Lastly, if you're keeping track: 1 box of Stinger Roadkill Expert covered the entire roof, both floor pans and trans tunnel, and the trunk. That's a great deal for $90, some labor, and some sweat. If I knock on the trunk pan now there is no empty tin-can. It's a thud.
Thank you! That's good info to know. I do not have a stereo or any speakers yet. Can you suggest quality speakers for the stock locations? As for a head unit I'm interested in a single den unit w/o blue tooth or remote. I'd just like one w/a CD player and possibly an input jack. If there is HD even better.Nice work brother! If you throw a sub box back there it'll be even sweeter! I worked in a stereo shop when I was younger whenever a customer asked about trunk rattle it was dynamat time
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Yea man do components 5 and a quarters in the doors 1 inch tweets in the dash, if you don't mind cutting into the door I would do 6.5s in the door. Rear deck 5.25 co axials in the deck. I'm partial to diamond audio Memphis audio or Boston acoustic s. How come no Bluetooth? U want iPod controls? I've always liked alpine and Kenwood decks. I would do 2 amps, 1x 4 channel to drive the interiors and 1 sub amp. I like the boom boomThank you! That's good info to know. I do not have a stereo or any speakers yet. Can you suggest quality speakers for the stock locations? As for a head unit I'm interested in a single den unit w/o blue tooth or remote. I'd just like one w/a CD player and possibly an input jack. If there is HD even better.
BTW all the work you did in the interior and trunk area laying down sound deadener. A car stereo shop would have charged anywhere from 1000 to 2000 dollarsUpdate: Tamed Trunk.
So, @92NOTCH01 convinced me to go ahead and put Roadkill in the trunk area. I went and inspected the trunk area. When I knocked on the bare metal pan it sounded like knocking on an empty tin-can. That is [horrible] for noise and heat transfer. Therefore, trunk taming was necessary...
First, take all the junk out of your trunk, remove the trunk carpet, and promptly place it in the washer machine or some other type of cleaning apparatus. That thing is old, stained, and it smells of automotive fluids in many cases. Just because our cars are old doesn't mean they have to be trashed.
Next, if so equipped, remove the factory insulation carpet...
Then, remove the cover to the spare tire and jack. If you don't have the cover get it. It's cheap and keeps your trunk floor level. Why should we have holes and unevenness just because our car is old?
For a coupe, make sure you have the proper rear seat back sound deadener blanket. It really does matter when it comes to heat and noise. If you don't have it LMR has them cheap.
Next, remove the spare tire, jack, etc and inspect floor pan for holes. Mine had several holes from some numbskull who was drill happy. He also had a battery in the trunk at some point. I filled all the holes with a clear silicone. I'm not a fan of exhaust fumes in the cabin.
Thoroughly vacuum the entire trunk and wipe down with alcohol...
Next, remove each side of the trunk trim carpet after deciding not to be lazy. There should be 2 push pins on each side. You may want to consider buying a box of replacement pins [before] pulling your old ones out. The pins usually deform after a use or two. Then, clean the area the trim carpet was covering...
When applying the sound deadener make sure to retain the trunk drain plugs in case of water intrusion. In order to line the holes up when laying down the deadener I simply go slow, use an ice-pic type tool to make the target (far left), then use a bigger punch (to right of pic), to bore the drain hole out...
You can cover the entire trunk area. Just make sure to make provisions for all drain plugs and the spar tire :J" bolt. I didn't measure as precisely as I should have so I had to cut some filler pieces. While it doesn't look as good as it could, it [is] under the carpet, and still does the same job.
Replace the washed carpet in the trunk, put various items back in the trunk, decide if you still want to use the factory deadener blanket/pad, and close her up!
While I did not test drive the vehicle yet I did start it up. I could already tell a difference in cabin noise reduction. The exhaust sounded like it was out back, out "there,"and separated from me instead of with me -if you know what I'm saying. I plan on test driving later and posting the review.
Lastly, if you're keeping track: 1 box of Stinger Roadkill Expert covered the entire roof, both floor pans and trans tunnel, and the trunk. That's a great deal for $90, some labor, and some sweat. If I knock on the trunk pan now there is no empty tin-can. It's a thud.
Wow! Really?!BTW all the work you did in the interior and trunk area laying down sound deadener. A car stereo shop would have charged anywhere from 1000 to 2000 dollars
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Yea man, call a local car stereo shop and ask them for a quote. I live in Chicago so the going rate for a car is usually around that price depending on where u live.Wow! Really?!
When I was much younger I went for the big systems. Now, I just want good quality sound from the stock locations. I'd also like to be able to produce the power from the head unit (i.e., no external amps).Yea man do components 5 and a quarters in the doors 1 inch tweets in the dash, if you don't mind cutting into the door I would do 6.5s in the door. Rear deck 5.25 co axials in the deck. I'm partial to diamond audio Memphis audio or Boston acoustic s. How come no Bluetooth? U want iPod controls? I've always liked alpine and Kenwood decks. I would do 2 amps, 1x 4 channel to drive the interiors and 1 sub amp. I like the boom boom
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U don't want to use the power from a head unit to power your speakers. You will blow your speakers up. The head units never produce the kind of power that they state. Yes 5.25 components, which consist of the 5.25 inch mid bass driver in the door and then the 1 inch tweet in the dash location. The 5.25 co ax speaker in the rear deckWhen I was much younger I went for the big systems. Now, I just want good quality sound from the stock locations. I'd also like to be able to produce the power from the head unit (i.e., no external amps).
The "no blue tooth" deal has to do with health concerns and how blue tooth interacts w/my nervous system...it's a long story.
Am I understanding you right that I should put 5 1/4" speakers in the doors with an accompanying 1" tweeter in the dash? Then the deck takes 5 1/4 also, but make them coax? Do I have that right?
Okay. That's good to know. So, maybe I could get away with one amp for the doors and deck while letting the head unit drive the 1" tweeters? I really don't need a sub, I don't even want the amp, lol.U don't want to use the power from a head unit to power your speakers. You will blow your speakers up. The head units never produce the kind of power that they state. Yes 5.25 components, which consist of the 5.25 inch mid bass driver in the door and then the 1 inch tweet in the dash location. The 5.25 co ax speaker in the rear deck
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Get a 4 channel amp to drive your interiors. If u don't want a sub and an amp then u could cross those off, but don't u want some junk in the trunk??Okay. That's good to know. So, maybe I could get away with one amp for the doors and deck while letting the head unit drive the 1" tweeters? I really don't need a sub, I don't even want the amp, lol.
I already have junk in the trunk: a spare tire and jack.Get a 4 channel amp to drive your interiors. If u don't want a sub and an amp then u could cross those off, but don't u want some junk in the trunk??
[emoji3]
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Dude I'm 43!! LOLI already have junk in the trunk: a spare tire and jack.
At 42 I REALLY don't need a bunch of bass.
lol! I guess you're a young 43. I'm a very old 42!Dude I'm 43!! LOL
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Always loved my sounds. I feel like I'm 83....lollol! I guess you're a young 43. I'm a very old 42!
Nothing wrong with that. I'm a musician. I like sound too. I'm just more mellowed in the car stereo department now.Always loved my sounds. I feel like I'm 83....lol
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Gotcha manNothing wrong with that. I'm a musician. I like sound too. I'm just more mellowed in the car stereo department now.
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