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Progress Thread Nasty Ninety Notch

  • Thread starter Thread starter joetrainer31
  • Start date Start date Mar 13, 2015
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mikestang63

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#21
  • Mar 17, 2015
  • #21
the last time I saw an interior that bad was at the OJ trial.

X1000 on aluminum heads. Do it once and do it right.

Not a fan of cheap, chinese made parts. I would avoid the "house brand" SVE TB and control arms, and get an Accufab TB and MM rear lower control arms. Even the BBK TB is better although they all whistle. You do not want control arms with poly bushings on both ends as they put excessive bind on the suspension.

What short block are you going with- who is building it? What cam?
 

joetrainer31

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#22
  • Mar 17, 2015
  • #22
hoopty5.0 said:
^^^ This. And if you are set on iron heads, you can get a ready to run set of Windsor Sr heads for around $500.
Click to expand...
Where?
 

joetrainer31

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#23
  • Mar 17, 2015
  • #23
7991LXnSHO said:
The power windows were lighter than the mechanical ones.
Click to expand...
really? cause I have those.
 

joetrainer31

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#24
  • Mar 17, 2015
  • #24
mikestang63 said:
the last time I saw an interior that bad was at the OJ trial.

X1000 on aluminum heads. Do it once and do it right.

Not a fan of cheap, chinese made parts. I would avoid the "house brand" SVE TB and control arms, and get an Accufab TB and MM rear lower control arms. Even the BBK TB is better although they all whistle. You do not want control arms with poly bushings on both ends as they put excessive bind on the suspension.

What short block are you going with- who is building it? What cam?
Click to expand...

I've had success in the past with SVE control arms and Mabbco engines. I'm using Mabbco's performance short block with higher compression pistons & stock cam.
 

joetrainer31

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#25
  • Mar 17, 2015
  • #25
FoxMustangLvr said:
In regards to his comment about the lightest Fox he was referring to the Coupe (notchback) being the lightest model available over the GT and LX and the verts. I agree with you about the trunk lid, keep more weight over the tires and concentrate weight reduction to the front of the car.

As far as heads go it's aluminum all the way.
Click to expand...
Trust me. I'd rather have aluminum heads, but the expense. As far as the trunk lid; I need to see how much it will cost to fix it vs another lid. It has a fifty cent piece sized hole in the middle of it.
 

mikestang63

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Mar 17, 2015
#26
  • Mar 17, 2015
  • #26
joetrainer31 said:
I've had success in the past with SVE control arms and Mabbco engines. I'm using Mabbco's performance short block with higher compression pistons & stock cam.
Click to expand...

Sounds like you have it all figured out. Good luck to you
 

hoopty5.0

mechanicus terribilis
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#27
  • Mar 17, 2015
  • #27
joetrainer31 said:
Where?
Click to expand...
Look on the Corral. There are a few sets floating around in there.
 
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joetrainer31

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#28
  • Mar 17, 2015
  • #28
mikestang63 said:
Sounds like you have it all figured out. Good luck to you
Click to expand...
I wouldn't say that, Mike. I didn't mean to come across that way. Sorry. I just mean to convey that I had no prior issues with the SVE arm on my '95 351 car. Maybe because I don't beat on the car? I'd rather have a torque arm set-up, but its too much $$$.

As far as the engine goes; Mabbco did me right before. I see no reason to stay away from them.

Concerning the cam; I'd rather have an "E" like I had in my 351, but even though its smog legal the nazi CA emissions guys turn you away at the sound of it. So, I figured if it doesn't thump then its less hassle for me.

If you have a suggestion for smog legal aluminum heads that aren't $1400+ let me know.
 

FoxMustangLvr

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Mar 18, 2015
#29
  • Mar 18, 2015
  • #29
joetrainer31 said:
nazi CA
Click to expand...

Born and raised in Nazi CA and successfully escaped that place!!

joetrainer31 said:
If you have a suggestion for smog legal aluminum heads that aren't $1400+ let me know.
Click to expand...

Get an already reworked set of explorer heads that somebody else already put the work into and will take a little loss. They're out there. It's better than the E7 heads that you could never sell after sinking a ton of money in an attempt to get them to flow better.
 

A5literMan

At least it is lumpy...
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Mar 18, 2015
#30
  • Mar 18, 2015
  • #30
AFR 165's are smog legal and you can find those on The corral fairly often. You could go with a custom cam and gain performance and still pass emissions. Of course this combo would easily cost you 12-1500$ at the least. If horsepower isn't a big concern you could go with the above mentioned "worked" gt40's,ported explorer intake,etc. Even with a stock cam you could see 250+ rwhp.
 

Chuckman

GTFO you fat, heavy bastard
15 Year Member
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Mar 18, 2015
#31
  • Mar 18, 2015
  • #31
twisted wedge 170's are also smog-legal, and can be found used for good prices as well. summit used to put em on sale for right at a grand/pair new every so often, and with the 11r 170 coming out soon, they may do it again (my bet is the 11r will totally replace the old wedge's and they'll need to clear the old stock)

a little googleing shows that the crane 2031 is an emissions-legal cam, but its VERY pricey ($360 on summit, ouch)
 

A5literMan

At least it is lumpy...
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#32
  • Mar 18, 2015
  • #32
Chuckman said:
twisted wedge 170's are also smog-legal, and can be found used for good prices as well. summit used to put em on sale for right at a grand/pair new every so often, and with the 11r 170 coming out soon, they may do it again (my bet is the 11r will totally replace the old wedge's and they'll need to clear the old stock)

a little googleing shows that the crane 2031 is an emissions-legal cam, but its VERY pricey ($360 on summit, ouch)
Click to expand...
I forgot the TFS 170's were legal. And uhhh 360$ is custom cam territory. No way would I run an ots for that price. Besides get a "non lumpy" custom cam that will increase performance AND pass the sniffer. Also I saved 10%(210$) when summit had their Black Friday sale.
 

joetrainer31

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Mar 21, 2015
#33
  • Mar 21, 2015
  • #33
Thanks for the reply, guys! I'm in the ammassing parts phase right now. My living room looks like a cardboard box warehouse. I'm still up in the air (no pun), about the heads. Our machinist is taking his sweet time to pick up the ole E7s. The K-member, A-arm, coil over setup arrived and should be going in Monday. The short block should br arriving Monday as well. I plan on picking up the Energy Suspension Eng/Trans mounts tomorrow.

At this point I may need to just go ahead w/new heads because its taking so long, but still not sure.

On the wheel side of things; think I settled on Weld Draglites because, well, they are light which goes with my theme, can be used with 4 lug, and will lock SICK with the paint combo/suspension ride height I have in mind. I plan on 15x10 rear & 15x8 front w/stock ride height on the tires.
 
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FoxMustangLvr

I love my Pimp
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Mar 23, 2015
#34
  • Mar 23, 2015
  • #34
I'm a fan of the Draglites All sounds like good choices for a tasteful build (with the exception of the E7's, don't do it!!).

Did you clean up and paint that engine bay while it's naked?
 

joetrainer31

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#35
  • Mar 23, 2015
  • #35
FoxMustangLvr said:
I'm a fan of the Draglites All sounds like good choices for a tasteful build (with the exception of the E7's, don't do it!!).

Did you clean up and paint that engine bay while it's naked?
Click to expand...
Engine bay was already clean, and black. I'm fine w/black because it will match anything.

We just installed the K-member with coil overs, chrom moly A arms, and CC plates. The engine bay looks so hollow -its great! The short block arrived today. It's .40 over so its a 306ish. Pics coming shortly.

Im still not sure about the heads. One of the techs just realized the factory hood is cracked and bent. It'll be an after market hood now. That increases the financial need. Aluminum heads may be out of the picture. I'm not worried though mid 12s can be had w/worked E7s.
 

mikestang63

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Aug 27, 2012
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Mar 23, 2015
#36
  • Mar 23, 2015
  • #36
joetrainer31 said:
I'm not worried though mid 12s can be had w/worked E7s.
Click to expand...

Please share your secret.
 

joetrainer31

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#37
  • Mar 23, 2015
  • #37
mikestang63 said:
Please share your secret.
Click to expand...
check out mustangmike, and/or tmoss head porting.
 

mikestang63

SN Certified Technician
Aug 27, 2012
11,606
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In the garage
Mar 23, 2015
#38
  • Mar 23, 2015
  • #38
joetrainer31 said:
check out mustangmike, and/or tmoss head porting.
Click to expand...

LOL. I know Tom- he's ported my current explorer intake and other intakes over the years . Curious- what does a set of worked e7's that flow enough to get you into the 12's set youi back these days? I remember Thumper worked E7 heads from a while back but they were near the price of alum heads.
 

FoxMustangLvr

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#39
  • Mar 23, 2015
  • #39
I guess it comes down to if he's happy with worked E7's then it's a non issue. But 12's might be reaching a little unless you have some serious traction but cornering seems to be a bit more important since you've mentioned that a couple times. Do you want to go fast in a straight line or handle in turns? What works for one conflicts with the other typically.
 

joetrainer31

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Mar 24, 2015
#40
  • Mar 24, 2015
  • #40
mikestang63 said:
LOL. I know Tom- he's ported my current explorer intake and other intakes over the years . Curious- what does a set of worked e7's that flow enough to get you into the 12's set youi back these days? I remember Thumper worked E7 heads from a while back but they were near the price of alum heads.
Click to expand...
They will set me back about $600. Its either that or new aluminum. I'm not willing to risk a set of used aluminum heads. Would I like aluminum better? Certainly. I'd like to have the weight loss. I already took 65lbs off the front suspension, and I need a hood (which will shave off 20lbs more), the heads would make for an additional 40lbs.
 
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