Thanks for the info. Looks like I was thinking about the geometry all wrong.I understand the wheel or tire is rubbing on the coil over. Is that right? If so, then it’s math time, specifically geometry. (Sorry @General karthief , it has to be done.)
If you have a shorter lower arm, that should bring the spindle in and make for less coil clearance. Here is why.
The arm, the strut, and a line from the inner pivot point of the arm to the center of the top strut mount make the three legs of a triangle. For simplicity of terms, assume it is a right angle triangle. The arm is the base, and the spring wrapped strut is the hypotenuse. If you make the base shorter, the angle between the base and the hypotenuse is less acute, and that pulls the hub and wheel closer to the strut. The hypotenuse becomes more vertical, with less clearance by the time it gets to the rim and tire.
You need to either move the hub out, use one spacer, or fix the offset of the wheel.
As for economics, if you do not want new wheels and tires now, I’d run a spacer on for street driving and fix whatever else needs it first.
Moving the top strut mount in, loosening the strut bolts, and prying the spindle away at the top (especially with slotted strut holes) can gain some clearance on a stock like set up. (That’s moving the top of the triangle in while keeping the spindle and strut vertical.) I do not know how your coil overs are mounted, so that might not be possible to adjust now.