Fox Need advise on front suspension setup

mob

the guy who hits on his mom
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Just looking to get some opinions on what to do. My 93 GT, has basically factory front end suspension but I had put caster camber plates and a QA1 coilover setup on it, I bought them used, I believe it came of an SN-95 but not entirely sure. I also have 17x9 wheels all around.

Anyways, they fit fine but the front wheel hit the springs so I had to run two thick spacers on each wheels. Very dumb I know, I was a kid when I did this and never really drove the car.

I want to fix this now so looking for suggestions:

1. Take out the coil overs and just put springs back in it. Would need to buy all the parts again.

2. What I would like to do is put new a-arms on it that would work with coil overs. Not sure if this is possible with stock k-member or would even help with the spacing issue. Anyone have any suggestions? I’m not looking to go 5lug right now.
 
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mob

the guy who hits on his mom
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You could throw 17x8 on. front.

Unfortunately they don't have a 17x8 in my wheels, also $400 for a new front set of wheels plus tires wouldn't be worth it. I think putting tubular a-arms on it would be cheaper, but don't know if that would solve my problem. Looking for a budget friendly option.
 

mob

the guy who hits on his mom
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If you don't want to spend any money, you are SOL...
Maybe it would help to clarify, or maybe not.. My car has 1,000 things wrong with it. I am trying to fix things little by little to get it into drivable condition. I don't consider the car "drivable" with .5" spacers on each wheel. I am not trying to go all out on the suspension. I am just looking for suggestions for clearance without breaking the bank. I don't think that's unreasonable, or would require me to do a whole tubular k-member or 5lug conversion. That's why I am asking for suggestions from anyone who knows. But, if you don't know, you can just say that.
 

mob

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Farrell5.0

Not sure what "DP" means, but know's he likes it!
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The cheapest way is going to be swapping back to a conventional coil spring in the A-arm bucket. Otherwise, you need a a different wheel.

I’m pretty certain that changing the A-arm wouldn’t change the coilover position because of how the strut mounts to the spindle. Also, even if you got some cheap ones to come in under the $400 you mentioned, you would need an alignment afterward, so there’s another $150-$250.
 
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KRUISR

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Pic would help of front suspension. An angle like this ..

IMG_0596.JPG

Yes I have coil overs with stock lower control arms and MM camber caster plates. In this pic I have spindles from a 2000 and I am running 4 lug wheels with 11.8" rotors, Lincoln LS caliper (similar to 99-04 PBRs). The wheels are 16x8 with a 0 or +8 offset (I don't remember which).
 

mob

the guy who hits on his mom
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The cheapest way is going to be swapping back to a conventional coil spring in the A-arm bucket. Otherwise, you need a a different wheel.

I’m pretty certain that changing the A-arm wouldn’t change the coilover position because of how the strut mounts to the spindle. Also, even if you got some cheap ones to come in under the $400 you mentioned, you would need an alignment afterward, so there’s another $150-$250.

Yea I'm not sure either, I thought I heard somewhere that tubular a-arms are shorter. And looking at these UPR control arms, in the description they actually say they can be 1-2" shorter than stock a-arms. If it is indeed 1" shorter and pulls the spindle back just a little closer to the engine, this could give me the clearance I need.

"Aftermarket control arms can vary in length from stock control arms and may be one to two inches shorter. This will not affect the geometry of the suspension as the length variation has been accounted for."


The car never had an alignment after I put the coils on anyways, I don't consider that an additional cost as it needs to be done regardless.

I don't mind spending more than $400 if needed, I just don't think spending that much on a new pair of thinner wheels and tires is worth the cost. I like the coilovers, I'd like to keep them. I was just adding up the cost of going back to springs/strut and it's not cheap either, at least $400 as well, and for that cost I'd rather have the coils.
 

mob

the guy who hits on his mom
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Pic would help of front suspension. An angle like this ..

Yes I have coil overs with stock lower control arms and MM camber caster plates. In this pic I have spindles from a 2000 and I am running 4 lug wheels with 11.8" rotors, Lincoln LS caliper (similar to 99-04 PBRs). The wheels are 16x8 with a 0 or +8 offset (I don't remember which).

Yea I don't have any right now unfortunately, car is in storage. Can't tell if your spindles help but it still looks pretty close, I'd say if you had another inch of wheel + tire, it could be rubbing the spring like mine. I want a shorter arm that would bring the spindle back just a tiny bit, straightening out the strut, but I may just go with a hub/lub centric spacer and call it a day.

Maybe like this below
 

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KRUISR

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I am currently a 5 lug set up with 18x9 fronts. Yes I had a rub between the rim and coil over. I put in a 5/16" spacer and now no rubbing.

20220129_104649.jpg 20211231_150849.jpg
This is with the spacer in. Same 2000 spindles and fox control arms. Rims are 18x9 with a 255/35/18 tire. The rub was rim to coil.

Rim backspace/offset makes a big difference too. The 18x9s are +24mm. If they were half that I wouldn't have needed spacers.
 

manicmechanic007

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Sep 26, 2017
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Change the wheels (the offset)
Don't understand wanting cheap after all the costly suspension mods
Throw some nice looking 1000 dollar wheels at it and solve the problem
Have a alignment done and get the camber correct before determining final wheel offset needs
 
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90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
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The shorter the control arm, the closer the rim to the strut. It's a geometry thing.

If you love the wheels that much just go back to a regular spring and strut up front.
 
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7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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Yea I don't have any right now unfortunately, car is in storage. Can't tell if your spindles help but it still looks pretty close, I'd say if you had another inch of wheel + tire, it could be rubbing the spring like mine. I want a shorter arm that would bring the spindle back just a tiny bit, straightening out the strut, but I may just go with a hub/lub centric spacer and call it a day.

Maybe like this below
I understand the wheel or tire is rubbing on the coil over. Is that right? If so, then it’s math time, specifically geometry. (Sorry @General karthief , it has to be done.)

If you have a shorter lower arm, that should bring the spindle in and make for less coil clearance. Here is why.

The arm, the strut, and a line from the inner pivot point of the arm to the center of the top strut mount make the three legs of a triangle. For simplicity of terms, assume it is a right angle triangle. The arm is the base, and the spring wrapped strut is the hypotenuse. If you make the base shorter, the angle between the base and the hypotenuse is less acute, and that pulls the hub and wheel closer to the strut. The hypotenuse becomes more vertical, with less clearance by the time it gets to the rim and tire.
You need to either move the hub out, use one spacer, or fix the offset of the wheel.
As for economics, if you do not want new wheels and tires now, I’d run a spacer on for street driving and fix whatever else needs it first.
Moving the top strut mount in, loosening the strut bolts, and prying the spindle away at the top (especially with slotted strut holes) can gain some clearance on a stock like set up. (That’s moving the top of the triangle in while keeping the spindle and strut vertical.) I do not know how your coil overs are mounted, so that might not be possible to adjust now.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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I understand the wheel or tire is rubbing on the coil over. Is that right? If so, then it’s math time, specifically geometry. (Sorry @General karthief , it has to be done.)

If you have a shorter lower arm, that should bring the spindle in and make for less coil clearance. Here is why.

The arm, the strut, and a line from the inner pivot point of the arm to the center of the top strut mount make the three legs of a triangle. For simplicity of terms, assume it is a right angle triangle. The arm is the base, and the spring wrapped strut is the hypotenuse. If you make the base shorter, the angle between the base and the hypotenuse is less acute, and that pulls the hub and wheel closer to the strut. The hypotenuse becomes more vertical, with less clearance by the time it gets to the rim and tire.
You need to either move the hub out, use one spacer, or fix the offset of the wheel.
As for economics, if you do not want new wheels and tires now, I’d run a spacer on for street driving and fix whatever else needs it first.
Moving the top strut mount in, loosening the strut bolts, and prying the spindle away at the top (especially with slotted strut holes) can gain some clearance on a stock like set up. (That’s moving the top of the triangle in while keeping the spindle and strut vertical.) I do not know how your coil overs are mounted, so that might not be possible to adjust now.
Yeah, my cartoon mind went to sht on that, will a longer lower control arm work? Is the sn95 lower arm longer?
 

mob

the guy who hits on his mom
15 Year Member
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Change the wheels (the offset)
Don't understand wanting cheap after all the costly suspension mods
Throw some nice looking 1000 dollar wheels at it and solve the problem
Have a alignment done and get the camber correct before determining final wheel offset needs

What costly suspension mods? I found this setup for $400 off an old drag car and sold the spindles/brake parts, 10 yrs ago... I'm not going to drop $1,000 on 4-lug wheels. And I am not going 5-lug right now. I'll keep a spacer on there before I change the wheels.

Though I do realize proper fitting wheels would be the best solution.
 

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