you pretty much need to use an inside style, cause theres not a lot of room to get to the outside of the spring. You might be able to get by with an outside one if you unbolt the outter shock tower cover thingys.
I would get an inside spring compressor and make sure it's of good quality. I almost lost some fingers because I used some cheapo one that gave out on me twice .
I used the inside type, and suggest you do the same. I believe they are safer if their is such a word when working on springs. I also fabricated a spacer to give me more of a quicker resolution when putting my new springs back in.
Also, consider getting two lengths of sturdy chain and coupler links, then as the spring is compressed, loop the chains through the spring (try to keep the chains evenly spaced - one on each side of the spring). Keep moving the coupler links to keep the chains as snug as possible - the chains will keep the spring (mostly) compressed if the spring compressor fails.
thanks all.
I know how vicious those springs can be, after a murderous session on an 88 LX 5.0 I had. After I got the new springs in, I drove a stake through the heart of the old ones. evil, evil things.
Good idea, Loup.
how much would i need to compress the old spring to get it out? then how much would a new 620# 1" drop-spring need to be compressed to get it in? i've read on here where guys have gotten the drop springs in without using a compressor.
You may not need a spring compressor at all. I don't use 'em. I can spin the spring into place faster than someone can do it with a compressor. I did it to a stock ride height '64 V8 Falcon two weeks ago. With the upper arm dropped all the way down till it hits the frame (ha-ha), there is a lot of room to put the spring in. It scratches up the spring perch some but I don't get judged on the paint of the spring perch at the track. I think is safer to put the spring in without a compressor.
Use the jack under the a-arm to compress the old ones, then put 8 or 10 of the BIG zip-ties (like 1/2 inch wide) thru the spring and pull em' tight. When you lower the jack back down, the spring can be removed. My lowering springs (on my 70) went in without being compressed.
Good luck.
DD
the 1" drop springs Probably will not have to be compressed to install. with the lower arm dropped they slid right in without a fight. infact I had to raise the arm with a jack to get it all lined up.
Yeah use the inside type. I used the outside ones on mine which was a little tricky to get it to line up under the shock tower hood but it will work if it comes to it. Besides the inside one are so much easier to use period.
Kevin
I did the granada swap last summer and tried to use the outside compressors until someone showed me the other kind. They don't work very well at all. The problem is that there isn't enough room to get the compressors centered on each side of the spring. You're forced to put both compressors just a little on the same side of the center line. Thus when you attempt to tighten them they will slide torward each other and force the spring into a rainbow or slinky looking thing. I was too stupid to realize how dangerous it was at the time. Luckily someone pointed this out to me before I got them reinstalled. Stock hieght spings cannot be reinstalled (even with the shelby drop) when they are shaped like that. Got an internal compressor and had both of them back in place in no time!
Get an internal one. And take your time. I had to use a compressor to put the 620 drop coils back in on mine, but then needed a jack to get them centered on the perch.
Its best to use an inside compressor, and to make it even easier you can modify it.
Just unscrew the bottom arm off the shaft, and remove the upper arm also.
Get a 10-12" piece of 2x4 and drill a hole in the middle of it for the shaft.
Put a large washer (there should be one at the top of the compressor anyway) on the shaft and run the shaft through the 2x4, then screw the bottom arm back on.
After removing the shock, run the bottom arm down through the top of the shock tower.
Hook the lower arm to the spring and tighten the compressor until the spring is clear.
What this does is get all the compressor parts out of the way and gives all the control to an easily accessible shaft up on top. It also makes it nearly impossible for the compressor to slip off the spring, since its anchored by the shock tower.
Best to use dry pressure treated wood, if you have a scrap piece around. This is much easier that it sounds...
.... now just so you guys know, when I say zip-ties, I dont mean the kind you get at the local Schucks.... I'm talking the industrial ones that are like 1/2" wide and about two feet long. You can get em at most industrial supply places, their like $20 for a pack, but they sure do come in handy.