Engine Need guidance on my mild engine mods

Gnfanatic

Member
Sep 27, 2018
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Hey guys, my orig 39k motor(89GT) has a bad oil pan leak due to dried out gaskets. So I am going to be pulling the motor so I can clean everything down properly and replace all thw gaskets. Since the motor is out I am planning to do some minor mods to it to wake it up. The issue I have is this if my firs Ford and things are done differently so I am cofused about the TB and the fuel system. this is what I am planning to purchase...

185CC promaxx heads
1.7 scorpion roller rockers
gt40 lower intake ported by tmoss
24lb injectors needed???
70MM TB needed???
EGR spacer needed??
Maf??
Also,what intake fel pro gasket do I buy???

thanks guys!!
 

KRUISR

5 Year Member
Apr 16, 2015
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Are you keeping the stock cam? If so, the stock 19 lb injectors will work fine for a cruiser.

If keeping stock cam and 19 injectors, a 65mm TB will be fine. Stock EGR will work with 65mm TB. A larger MAF will help the engine breath better but not absolutely necessary.

Can you do all the updates you listed, yes. They would require a larger fuel pump than stock as well. Stock cam with those upgrades would give nice idle and manners, yet a bunch more power than stock.
 
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dgollem

Active Member
May 5, 2004
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Your 89 should already have a MAF, Kruisr hit the nail on the head with the comments about your build. Fords are not much different than anything else. If you have not already purchased your parts you might consider getting a kit , heads, cam, intake, headers etc from Trick Flow, Holly, Eldlebrock (sp) or similar. Most of these kits can take your from stock 225 hp to around 300hp and are all made to work together. Anyway you go balance is the key, improve intake, exhaust is needed etc. 19lb injectors and stock computer are good for about 300hp. Upgrade the fuel pump for sure. Think about how you want the car to drive, best bang for the buck for seat of the pants feel in these cars are gears. 3.73 are vey popular. Is your car an auto or stick? You said you are new to Fords, I highly recommend doing some research, there are thousands of articles related to modifying these cars in magazines and on the internet.
 

manicmechanic007

5 Year Member
Sep 26, 2017
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The above is absolutely great advice
I can only add to get the rotating assembly professionally balanced
Watch a few SME racing engines videos as well and consider sending him your parts for balancing
My motor parts spent time in the Gapp and Roush shop in Livonia Michigan back when I built it
Proud of that to this day and yes it cost a ton
 

Middleagecrisis

Active Member
Aug 23, 2020
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The 185cc heads may be a little on the large side for a stock cam and shortblock. I've always run the Fel-Pro 1250 intake gasket when I port matched any of the Ford iron heads (E-7 and GT-40P). Definitely need to upgrade your fuel pump, stock is 88 gph and can barely feed a completely stock 5.0, you'll need a minimum 155 -190 gph. Lots of good engine combos if you do some searching on here and other sites. The absolute must-do's are: subframe connectors, fuel pump upgrade, aftermarket shifter (if 5 speed), and upgraded shocks. Next would be free flowing exhaust for the rumble. You can spend a lot fast! Make sure and build it with an end goal in mind, so you don't have to redo parts later.
 

manicmechanic007

5 Year Member
Sep 26, 2017
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The 185cc heads may be a little on the large side for a stock cam and shortblock. I've always run the Fel-Pro 1250 intake gasket when I port matched any of the Ford iron heads (E-7 and GT-40P). Definitely need to upgrade your fuel pump, stock is 88 gph and can barely feed a completely stock 5.0, you'll need a minimum 155 -190 gph. Lots of good engine combos if you do some searching on here and other sites. The absolute must-do's are: subframe connectors, fuel pump upgrade, aftermarket shifter (if 5 speed), and upgraded shocks. Next would be free flowing exhaust for the rumble. You can spend a lot fast! Make sure and build it with an end goal in mind, so you don't have to redo parts later.
Yes my sentiments exactly. I thought he said mild engine mods
 

John Dirks Jr

there is enough sticking out to grab on to
5 Year Member
Jun 28, 2013
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If you stick with the 19 lb injectors you can get a MAF from a Crown Vic or Marquis in the early to mid 90's era. Its a direct match calibration wise for the 19lb injectors and the benifit is its a 70mm MAF as compared to the stock Mustang MAF which is 55mm. All you need to make it fit is an adapter flange since these 70mm have a flange mount on one side. There should be articles on here about this and I'll post up if I can find them
 

Gnfanatic

Member
Sep 27, 2018
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Hi guys, I am very sorry for the late reply. I didnt get any notifications... I am going to answer the questions....
1-) Local shops want $2000+ to refresh short block with new pistons. I dont want to spend that money so I am going to do a compression test and then pull motor. This is the reason I am keeping stock cam, fac pistons.

2-) No one has anything in stock when it comes to the H/I/C kits. Even of they did I would have to do something with my pistons due to clearance. I really like the Trickflow kit but I called several places and nothing. I cant afford Anderson.

3-) I have completely entire suspension, cobra brake system, rear control arm mounts fully welded in and I have the Stifflers subframe system welded in.

4-) my injectors only have 39ki but they are also 30 years old, I dont want to chance it. I will be replacing the fuel pump with a larger in-tank unit.
 

mikestang63

SN Certified Technician
Aug 27, 2012
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i would either save up for AFR 165 or TW 170 heads or go low budget with set of 3 bar GT40's. You want to match the cam to the heads and springs.. Again depending on HP either 19 or go to 30 # injectors

what HP goal are you going for and what type of driveability? That is a good starting point. This has been done 1000's of times so not a lot of secrets on how to build a good engine. The problem now is prices and availability
 

Gnfanatic

Member
Sep 27, 2018
44
2
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i would either save up for AFR 165 or TW 170 heads or go low budget with set of 3 bar GT40's. You want to match the cam to the heads and springs.. Again depending on HP either 19 or go to 30 # injectors

what HP goal are you going for and what type of driveability? That is a good starting point. This has been done 1000's of times so not a lot of secrets on how to build a good engine. The problem now is prices and availability
I already have the powermaxx heads ordered. I have a set og GT40P heads with crane rollers in my garage. I did not realize the angle of the spark plugs might cause clearance issues with headers and what scared was the money I will have to put in them to make them worthy (Springs etc etc). I am looking to build a simple 300-350 hp street car. Unf it has an auto, I need to figure what to do with it. I am hearing stock aod's cant handle any power?
 

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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Sep 1, 2010
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Shuffling the shifter to get it hold second gear with the stock valve body does bad things to them. The shifters should have been D,2,1 with a switch for overdrive, and I think some updated kits do this. I hope Lentech is still in business.
 

Gnfanatic

Member
Sep 27, 2018
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Ok guys, I could not get the motor over 154 degree's F. I am not sure why due to not being the orig owner so I will find out soon if it even has a thermostat in it. The car had some minor mods from back in the 90's. It had a flowmaster catback, msd ign coil, air horns and a flex lite radiator fan that was clutchless, permantly mounted to pully. I removed the setup and installed a new ford clutch fan and clutch.

4-- 175 8-- 165
3-- 170 7-- 170
2--170 6-- 170
1-- 170 5-- 175
 

KRUISR

5 Year Member
Apr 16, 2015
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I did not know how weak the AOD was at first. My plan was to get a converter and trans cooler but seems like it is not worth it.
Nothing wrong with a stock AOD. I would get a good shift kit (yes Lentech is still around last I checked) and a good trans cooler. You should be all set unless the plan is to beat the :poo: out of it. If just cruising or spirited cruising, the stock AOD will be fine. Change the fluid regularily. Mine worked great all stock with a Lentech valve body until I abused it once too often (it had about 250k km on it when 3rd let go powershifting at 5500 rpm - 1st and 2nd are still there, so I limped home). That forced my hand and now I have a T5. I will rebuilt the AOD with 4R70 guts and keep it for something in the future.


4-- 175 8-- 165
3-- 170 7-- 170
2--170 6-- 170
1-- 170 5-- 175
I assume these are compression numbers, looks nice and even.


I could not get the motor over 154 degree's F.
I would agree there is likely not a t-stat (or it has one that was drilled out).