Need Help 94 5.0

Sad part is most everyone thinks the gapping tool I have hanging in the garage is a bottle opener.

Lol.. ^^That's funny.

I actually took an old pair of channel locks and cut them up to make gapping pliers beacuse I run .020 gap. It's really a pain to close them up that much unless using a hammer or something else. They work well surprisingly.
 
It was probably right in there with him suggesting to spray the engine down with wd40 because leaking intakes are normal.
I never suggested that I suggested spraying the hall affect sensor in the distributor because that will temporarily cure a miss and also diagnose it as going bad so that you know to replace, when did I ever say to spray the entire engine down? Your iq must be less than 90

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I never suggested that I suggested spraying the hall affect sensor in the distributor because that will temporarily cure a miss and also diagnose it as going bad so that you know to replace, when did I ever say to spray the entire engine down? Your iq must be less than 90

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It absolutely tickles me titty pink when people accuse others of having a low IQ while using little to no punctuation and poor grammar. Thank you for the laugh, I almost lost my coffee.
 
I never suggested that I suggested spraying the hall affect sensor in the distributor because that will temporarily cure a miss and also diagnose it as going bad so that you know to replace, when did I ever say to spray the entire engine down? Your iq must be less than 90

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Ok junior. Let's agree to disagree that you don't know what you are talking about.
 
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Lets agree that You're not very intelligent,that seems fair right?

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Be advised. Your reply is on the edge of being adversarial, and being adversarial, especially when you are brand new here is a no-no. I've been reading, as well as participating in the thread, and from what I take of it, the OP ignored the basic stepping stones to troubleshooting his problem. Your advice to spray any part of the ignition system w/ WD, silicone spray, etc. etc. doesn't exactly fall into any diagnostic flow chart that I've ever read. When the OP popped back in to state that his problem was solved as a result of a incorrect spark plug being found seems more than a little suspect. Yet you championed that "solution" as a simple fix to what was being made more serious by the rest of the participants here.

Let me ask you.

Do you think it possible for you to install a spark plug that is somehow so wrong that the engine would run badly?

Even if the other 7 were right, and the incorrect one was too hot, or too cold how badly would that make it run?




( thought about it yet?)

The only way an incorrect plug could make the motor run badly was if it was too long, and the electrode actually got closed from interference w/ THE PISTON., and again,.....if that happened.... ( provided it was only marginal contact),.... dead cylinder.

So, you install the Chevy plug in your Ford motor and you start it........putt, putt, putt, putt........7 cylinders outta 8. And (while extremely unlikely that that is what happened), it would do that immediately after the piston closed the electrode shut on the first crank of the engine.

If it stuck into the chamber any farther than that, and the engine wouldn't even turn over.

Now I don't know about you,..since you claim to be an experienced troubleshooter, but if you're installing a set of plugs in an engine, seems to me that a red light is gonna go off in your head as soon as you open the box and find a long reach spark plug somehow got in your box of four short ones.

But even after that red light is blinding you, you're gonna go ahead, and install it anyway?


So, In reality, it wasn't a "simple solution" to the Op's problem that the collective here made more serious, it was a BS answer that you agreed with. Own it.

And, again,....remember to walk in the middle of the road when you travel through bad behavior town,....it's ok to say "You don't know what you're talking about", but when you change that to "You're not very intelligent", you just insulted somebody. That sir, will get you side lined.
 
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giphy.gif
 
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Be advised. Your reply is on the edge of being adversarial, and being adversarial, especially when you are brand new here is a no-no. I've been reading, as well as participating in the thread, and from what I take of it, the OP ignored the basic stepping stones to troubleshooting his problem. Your advice to spray any part of the ignition system w/ WD, silicone spray, etc. etc. doesn't exactly fall into any diagnostic flow chart that I've ever read. When the OP popped back in to state that his problem was solved as a result of a incorrect spark plug being found seems more than a little suspect. Yet you championed that "solution" as a simple fix to what was being made more serious by the rest of the participants here.

Let me ask you.

Do you think it possible for you to install a spark plug that is somehow so wrong that the engine would run badly?

Even if the other 7 were right, and the incorrect one was too hot, or too cold how badly would that make it run?




( thought about it yet?)

The only way an incorrect plug could make the motor run badly was if it was too long, and the electrode actually got closed from interference w/ THE PISTON., and again,.....if that happened.... ( provided it was only marginal contact),.... dead cylinder.

So, you install the Chevy plug in your Ford motor and you start it........putt, putt, putt, putt........7 cylinders outta 8. And (while extremely unlikely that that is what happened), it would do that immediately after the piston closed the electrode shut on the first crank of the engine.

If it stuck into the chamber any farther than that, and the engine wouldn't even turn over.

Now I don't know about you,..since you claim to be an experienced troubleshooter, but if you're installing a set of plugs in an engine, seems to me that a red light is gonna go off in your head as soon as you open the box and find a long reach spark plug somehow got in your box of four short ones.

But even after that red light is blinding you, you're gonna go ahead, and install it anyway?


So, In reality, it wasn't a "simple solution" to the Op's problem that the collective here made more serious, it was a BS answer that you agreed with. Own it.

And, again,....remember to walk in the middle of the road when you travel through bad behavior town,....it's ok to say "You don't know what you're talking about", but when you change that to "You're not very intelligent", you just insulted somebody. That sir, will get you side lined.
I work in an automotive machine shop all I work on are engines I've seen far dumber :poo: than that,how about the guy that trys to jb weld his spark plug into his 5.4 because it stripped out or how about the guy that didn't index his spark plugs (in engines applicable) and smashed them shut or how about the guy that put his cap on with no rotor and can't figure out why it won't fire or how about the guy using the firing order for the old 302 instead of the firing order for the h.o 302 and can't figure out why it has a misfire,I've had to work on cars for people with no further expierience then knowing how to drive them,people who have lots of money and want a bad ass car but don't know how to build anything


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So how are you getting those cars to 1k? Because I would love to hear this as an engine builder

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Aftermarket block the stocker is good to about 500fwhp.
Large Cid with high flow heads and all the other necessary goodies large injectors single plane intake ect.ect.
Or boost lots of it.
Or both.
More air+more fuel=more hp.

Pretty simple no?
 
Aftermarket block the stocker is good to about 500fwhp.
Large Cid with high flow heads and all the other necessary goodies large injectors single plane intake ect.ect.
Or boost lots of it.
Or both.
More air+more fuel=more hp.

Pretty simple no?

Sigh...... for the "uninitiated."
enginecompartment002cd0.webp

enginecompartment004sf5.webp

1300 HP dude.
See that big circle looking thingy in front? That's is how we make 1,000+ HP.
 
I've been an industrial machinist since 1989 and I don't think I'd drop into a forum and start calling the regulars stupid.. I'll also say just because you are a machinist (especially automotive-yawn) it doesn't make you intelligent.. just sayin.

Also curious how an auto machinist doesn't know how that kind of hp is made.....
 
I've been an industrial machinist since 1989 and I don't think I'd drop into a forum and start calling the regulars stupid.. I'll also say just because you are a machinist (especially automotive-yawn) it doesn't make you intelligent.. just sayin.

Also curious how an auto machinist doesn't know how that kind of hp is made.....

Think about that Allen. There are automotive machine shop positions where the guy bores blocks, or does heads, or turns cranks, or any of the dozen or so other jobs in an automotive machine shop that does stock stuff. I'll bet that if you asked any of them how much power could be made with a windsor and a blower and they'd be just as clueless.