Need help choosing a stroker kit.

poneypower89

Now everyone in the world will know I wanna bang t
Dec 6, 2004
0
3
28
Indianapolis, Indiana
Well, its my 21st (march 6th) and good ol dad got me a fully prepped Mexican Block ready for a 331 stroker assembly.. Now I just need to find a good afordable kit that will work

I found this, it looked decent but I need some expert advice here... remember, the car will boosted just as it is now so I wanna keep compression in the 9 range.. please tell how this will be possible and what to look for..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford...ewItemQQcategoryZ33620QQitemZ8043344864QQrdZ1
 
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if your going that root, look for The Mustang Depot on ebay. Search TMD in parts...they have a little better kits with Forged Slugs. I bought my nodular iron 331 crank from them, and it looks like a very quality piece for the $.
 
I also seen the TMD kits.. just out or curiousity.. what makes them better?:shrug:

I showed the kit i showed because it had dished forged probe pistons.. I was under the impression these were decent pistons.. and should help me keep the compresson from going over 10:1.. am I wrong in this assumption?
 
Get the scat 9000 cast steel kit from adperformance.com for $999. Go 347 by the way. No need to sacriface 16 cubes for the same price. Although a 331 will make less power and since you're using a stock style block you may be safer using a 331.
 
I tend to steer away from private labeled or non reconized brand name parts, you never really know what you are getting.

The SCAT 9000 series crank is nice, same goes for the SCAT or Probe rods and Probe pistons that Mike mentioned. My opinion is since your boosted and it will put added stress on the crank snout I would recommend a FORGED 4340 crank....worth it in the long run

My $.02
 
Rick 91GT said:
I tend to steer away from private labeled or non reconized brand name parts, you never really know what you are getting.

The SCAT 9000 series crank is nice, same goes for the SCAT or Probe rods and Probe pistons that Mike mentioned. My opinion is since your boosted and it will put added stress on the crank snout I would recommend a FORGED 4340 crank....worth it in the long run

My $.02
just out of curiosity, wouldnt it be a waste of time to put a 4340 forged crank in a car that is running a stockish block? i know a mexican block is stronger but it is no dart
 
who needs a dart :rolleyes: I'll prolly never see 450rwhp unless i just get lucky or for once do something right.

You really think the crank is neccessary rick? I mean, I dunno wanna buy stuff that wont last, but I dont wanna spend more than I have too (of course).

Best baseline complete kit out there for me?
 
Modular2v said:
just out of curiosity, wouldnt it be a waste of time to put a 4340 forged crank in a car that is running a stockish block? i know a mexican block is stronger but it is no dart


If it was NA or even N2O I would agree waste of money but a centri. style blowers add a lot of stress to the front of the crank. Why not buy the better kit and have it last forever, and be tranferable to an aftermarket block if you so choose in the future.

450RWHP is very easy to obtain with a blower on a mild combo, the cast cranks are really only made for 600hp +/- that is only about 500RWHP with a 17% drivetrain loss.
 
Rick 91GT said:
If it was NA or even N2O I would agree waste of money but a centri. style blowers add a lot of stress to the front of the crank. Why not buy the better kit and have it last forever, and be tranferable to an aftermarket block if you so choose in the future.

450RWHP is very easy to obtain with a blower on a mild combo, the cast cranks are really only made for 600hp +/- that is only about 500RWHP with a 17% drivetrain loss.

Ok, never really thought about the stress caused by the blower.... This Forced Induction thing makes everything harder... but making HP! :rolleyes:

Alright, thanks for the advice guys... think I can get a suitable kit under a grand?:shrug: