need help on diagnosing this(startup related)

[chrishicks]

ok, I swear my car hates me. I just recently figured out the issue I was having after my 3g install and now this. I went out this morning and started the car. it was just fine. I don't really think this is related but I'll post it just in case. I did a little seafoam in the BB line and ended up stalling it. I restarted the car after a tad of cranking(just as I did when I did my truck) and it was fine. I finished adding the seafoam bit by bit and I never stalled it again. after I was finished I shut it off and waited 15min. when I went back out to start the car it acted like I had a dead battery. when I put the clutch in and turned it over it had that dead batt. slow crank until nothing(about 3-4 cranks). I ended up tossing my batt. charger on it with a 200Amp start. it still did the same thing. the dash gauge would show like it did before until I started cranking then everything went dim or dead. I then started moving the clutch pedal up and down a bit and I noticed the cranking got stronger/weaker if I hit just the right spot. I kept the key forward and still cranking and I guess I hit just the right spot as the car started. a few blips on the gas(due to the seafoam) and all was fine. it ran pretty smooth and everything. I let it run for around 10min. and shut it off. when I tried to restart it the same thing happened again, it wouldn't start.

does this sound like a clutch cable problem here since it did start while I was moving the pedal up/down a bit when it started? could it be the solenoid? battery? seafoam?

I tested the volts on the battery before I did the seafoam to test my 3g(I finally found my meter) and it was showing around 14.2V at idle.

right now I'm almost wishing that I never did the 3g upgrade since after I did that it has been one issue after another.

I correct the connections at the solenoid so the car will start and for some strange reason I start to get a rough idle afterwards. I'm told to run some seafoam through it and now this.

EDIT: I just thought I should add that the batt. charger was still connected when I finally got the car to start the first time. when I tried after I shut it off the charger was no longer on the car. that's why I asked about the battery as well.

 

[chrishicks]

I just went out a few minutes ago and the car again acted weak but it started. I did have to play with the clutch pedal a tad but nothing major. my wife stated that when she took it the other day the first time she pushed in the clutch all it did was one tick and then nothing. she tried it again and it started for her.

of course after it was warm and I shut it off it wouldnt start again. it showed the same symptoms as mentioned above. what all could this be?

 

[ninety15.0]

Starter solenoid perhaps. Maybe you should re-checl all the connection on the solenoid post. I know that it was hard for me to get the 0 gauge alternator wire on there after my 3g swap. could also be your neutral safety switch that does not allow the car to be started without the clutch in. I dont know how to check that. Maybe jrichker will jump in here with some of his electrical prowess!

 

[freakazoid]

Starting problems/Cluth pedal

check the clutch pedal saftey switch. The car should only start when the clutch is pressed. The switch contacts wear out or the spring that presses the contacts together breaks. I replaced the clutch safety switch 6 months ago, had similar problems.

GOOD LUCK !

 

[chrishicks]

not to sound really stupid here but would you mind pointing out where that part is located?

EDIT: is this the part I would need?

http://www.1aauto.com/1A/NeutralSaf..._base&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google_base

 

[jrichker]

No Crank checklist for 5.0 Mustangs

Since some of the tests will bypass the safety interlocks, make sure that the car is in neutral and the parking brake is set. Becoming a pancake isn’t part of the repair process…

Check battery, terminal connections, ground, starter relay switch (also known as solenoid) and starter in that order. The clamp on with 2 bolts battery terminal ends are a know problem causer.

A voltmeter is handy if you are familiar with how to use it to find bad connections. Measure the voltage drop across a connection while trying to start the car: more than .5 volts across a connection indicates a problem.
See http://www.fluke.com/application_notes/automotive/circuit.asp?AGID=1&SID=103 for help for help troubleshooting voltage drops across grounds.

1.) Will the car start if it is jumped? Then clean battery terminals and check battery.

2.) Check the battery to engine block ground, and the ground behind the engine to the firewall.

3.) Jump the big terminals on the starter relay next to the battery with a screwdriver - watch out for the sparks! If the engine cranks, the starter and power wiring is good. The starter relay is also known as a starter solenoid.

4.) Then pull the small push on connector (small red/blue wire) off the starter solenoid (Looks like it is stuck on a screw). Then jump between the screw and the terminal that is connected to the battery. If it starts, the relay is good and your problem is in the rest of the circuit.

5.) Remember to check the ignition switch, neutral safety switch on auto trans and the clutch safety switch on manual trans cars. If they are good, then you have wiring problems.
Typical start circuit...
Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

See http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195963.gif for 88-90 year cars
See http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195964.gif for 91-93 year cars.
See http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/1d/db/3c/0900823d801ddb3c.jsp for 94-95 model cars.

6.) The starter may be hung, loosen up the bolts that hold it on, and give it a good whack with a big hammer. Tighten up the bolts and try again.

7.) Pull the starter and take it to Autozone or Pep Boys and have them test it. Starter fails test, then replace it. If you got this far, the starter is probably bad.