need help removing power steering pulley

I think the pulley just slides off (ignore the allen head). That's my recollection from some years ago.

Good luck.

HISSIN50 said:

I think the pulley just slides off (ignore the allen head). That's my recollection from some years ago.

Good luck.

Click to expand...

"Exactly" what I remember also.

You will need to rent or buy a PS steering puller. The PS pulley has a ridge that the puller seats on. Then you crank the screw on the middle of the puller to get the pulley off the shaft.



You can rent the tool at Autozone or or auto parts stores.

I have used a bearing separator & harmonic balancer puller together to do the job.

Use this tool to put it back on...



I usually just use the bolt that comes with the new PS pump.

Ngc414 said:

Thanks for the info. I assume the allen head in the shaft is removed to use the installation tool?

Click to expand...

You shouldn't have to remove anything to use these tools. It should screw right into the shaft IIRC.

I know this thread is old but figured i add to it incase someone searches in the future like I have....this may be helpful to others.

The questions i have regarding Installing a new Pulley on a new pump is:

1 - Do I grease the shaft a bit for a smother install?
2 - Can I use an impact Gun on the screw that came with the PS pump to install pulley
3 - How far do I go in regards to Pulley position on the shaft? Stupid me never measured.

thanks!
Rob

1. Yes
2. I wouldn't
3. It should bottom out on the washer on the install so just keep turning it


Mine was a PITA and they pulley kept turning which was defeating the purpose of tightening the bolt. I had to get a buddy come over an hold the pulley still. My back hurts just thinking about it.

1. Yes
2. I wouldn't
3. It should bottom out on the washer on the install so just keep turning it


Mine was a PITA and they pulley kept turning which was defeating the purpose of tightening the bolt. I had to get a buddy come over an hold the pulley still. My back hurts just thinking about it.

thank you for the answers. Gonna try it now!

Pulley went on without a hitch! Thanks!

Next question...should I change the pressure hose? Yes new PS pump.

thanks!

If the hose is in good shape, reuse it. If you have extra money and time, change it.

Power steering system diagram:




Do not attempt to do this job without good jackstands.

The return hoses are all low pressure and are most commonly secured to the pump and associated plumbing with worm gear hose clamps. After a while they will frequently soften up at the end where they are clamped, and should be replaced. The auto parts store will sell you hose by the foot and it takes about 3 feet or less, depending if you have the fluid cooler in the low pressure side of the line.

Each hose uses an O ring on each end to seal them. The hoses will swivel when they are installed and tightened into place. That is why there are O rings on the fittings. The O ring is the part that actually makes the pressure seal. If you slide the nut all the way back as far as it will go, you will see the O ring and the groove cut into the center section of the fitting.


Sometimes you will get some white Teflon rings with the pump or rack. The rings go on the threaded part of the fitting to reduce or prevent small leaks. They are not meant to seal the pressure part of the line or substitute for the rubber O ring. Heat the white Teflon seals in hot water and they will be easier to install. You can install the fittings without them and not have any leaks if the O rings seal good.

You may find it is easier to drop the rack down to get to the hose fittings. The flex coupling for the steering shaft needs to be disconnected before you can get the rack out. You should disassemble the coupling by undoing the 2 bolts that hold it together.

Remove the two bolts that bolt the rack assembly to the frame and then pull the rack down. Get a catch pan to dump the fluid in when you disconnect the hydraulic lines. I replaced the rack mount bushings with some Energy Suspension urethane ones. When you re-install the rack assembly, put the rear bushings in the rack assembly and lift it into place. Then install the front bushings & washers and tighten down the nuts. Doing it this way makes room for the hydraulic lines without having them bind against the frame.

Time to do the job:
It takes 20 minutes to get the car up on jackstands.
It takes 20 minutes to disconnect the steering joint (rag joint). WD40 is your friend, so squirt the 2 rag joint coupler bolts with plenty of it. Do not attempt to disconnect the rag joint from the rack by removing the clamp joint bolt. It is hard to get apart and hard to align and put back together.

It takes 10 minutes to remove the two mount bolts that secure the steering rack to the k member.

It takes 10 minutes to remove the front rubber bushings and washers from the rack to K member mount so that you can slide the rack forward and then down.
You do not need to disconnect the rack from the tie rod ends, or remove the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles.

It takes 5 minutes per hydraulic line to disconnect them from the rack. Get a catch pan to dump the fluid in when you disconnect the hydraulic lines.

Total disassembly time roughly 1 1/2 hour, allowing time for some of the bolts to be rusty or hard to turn...

Figure a little more to reinstall and you have 2 3/4 to 3 hours total time. It you have an impact wrench, subtract 20-30 minutes from the total time

I use never seize on the pulley hub, not grease.

Good info

use this to take off the pulley >>> http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...pulley+pullers_-1_2743&keyword=pulley+pullers

use this to install it>>> http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...pulley+pullers_-1_2743&keyword=pulley+pullers