need help setting firewall adjuster

today i just installed the maximum motorsports cable/quadrant/firewall adjuster kit, to fix my notchy shifts, and high rpm shift lockouts. i cant seem to get it set right. i took all the slack out but left it just a tad loose. i tried shifting into second at like 5000 rpm and it still wouldnt let me in. what am i doing wrong here? thanks
 
ok another update. if anyone has even looked at this lately. i finally got it set right, the clutch is real high up, which i dont care because at least i can shift smoothly now, and prolly a pedal adjuster in the near future. problem is whenever i get on it, immediately it gets notchy or at a redlight (rarely lately though) though its not nearly as bad as with the old cable, but its still not how its supposed to be. what can i do to help this? i have tried adjusting the firewall adj. both ways and it has to be right in this spot to easily shift. im lost again.
 
Make sure the cable tension isn't too tight. One test is that you should be able to pull out the cable out from the firewall -it should only take about 20lbs of foce to pull out the cable about a thickness of a penny. If the cable is tight like a guitar string, there will be less clutch clamping pressure. It may feel nice, but the clutch will slip under heavy loads. I learned this the hard way.

Sometimes when you correctly set the cable tension, the pedal position where the clutch engages is bad (e.g.,right off the floor). If that happens, then the clutch won't completely release, and it'll be difficult to shift.

One remedy for this is to use an adjustable cable. I never used one, but I hear everyone complaining that all the aftermarket adjustalbe cables suck, and you should use OEM.

Another remedy is to use a double or triple hook quadrant. I have a UPR, but I still had a problem with adjustability. On the middle hook, the cable tension was way too tight (even with the adjuster all the way into the firewall). On the 1st hook, the cable was so loose, I had to have the adjuster loosened all the way out to the edge in order to take out the slack.

Good Luck
 
Make sure the cable tension isn't too tight. One test is that you should be able to pull out the cable out from the firewall -it should only take about 20lbs of foce to pull out the cable about a thickness of a penny. If the cable is tight like a guitar string, there will be less clutch clamping pressure. It may feel nice, but the clutch will slip under heavy loads. I learned this the hard way.

Sometimes when you correctly set the cable tension, the pedal position where the clutch engages is bad (e.g.,right off the floor). If that happens, then the clutch won't completely release, and it'll be difficult to shift.

One remedy for this is to use an adjustable cable. I never used one, but I hear everyone complaining that all the aftermarket adjustalbe cables suck, and you should use OEM.

Another remedy is to use a double or triple hook quadrant. I have a UPR, but I still had a problem with adjustability. On the middle hook, the cable tension was way too tight (even with the adjuster all the way into the firewall). On the 1st hook, the cable was so loose, I had to have the adjuster loosened all the way out to the edge in order to take out the slack.

Good Luck


thanks:nice:

would a pedal height adjuster help any?