SLiM JiM 156
Founding Member
Need help! Stang will start, but dies...ROUND 2
- Thread starter KDub
- Start date
Yea the only time you will get codes is if the CHECK ENGINE light is on. I still think it is a vacuum leak too but it is hard to trace that crap sometimes. My experience with the IAC and the loose hose was the car would run as long as I had my foot on the gas and kept it revved. I was even able to drive but had to keep restarting it at stops. It would finally go away after a few minutes and run fine. Well not with the loose hose...I had to reconnect that to fix it. Try picking up a Haynes manuel and see if there are some ideas there. About 15 bucks from Autozone or similar. I did a rear bearing change with mine and it described the process pretty well.KDub said:I tried it with no luck. The check engine light is not on and hasn't been.
All I should have to do to retrieve those codes is hook up and hit the link with my scanner, but I get nothing...
SLiM JiM 156 said:
I assume they are stock. I got the car about 2k miles ago. There are 53k on it now.
coramprat said:
Well, the people at Kragen told me that it would still retrieve codes even if the light isn't on, otherwise I wouldn't have bought it. Good to know now.
My car WILL NOT run when floored, half throttle, whatever. I bought a Haynes a while back and I have been using it to try to handle this. I am about at the end of my rope here. I have been trying to go at the sensors with my multimeter today, but everything seems to be fine. At this point I think KconoverK might be on the right track. Has anybody else had a problem similar to his? I'd like to open up the steering column tomorrow to see if thats the prob. What do I look for?
I really appreciate everybody's help.
Thanks
Kevin
RedStanger00
Founding Member
Not sure what year they started putting the PATS system into the stangs. I think 96 might have been the first year.
The way you tell if the system is cutting off the fuel pump and the anti-theft system is kicking in is when you go to start the car and it dies IMMEDIATELY you let of the key (let it return to the run position) and the theft light will blink rapidly like 5 times in one second maybe.
The way you tell if the system is cutting off the fuel pump and the anti-theft system is kicking in is when you go to start the car and it dies IMMEDIATELY you let of the key (let it return to the run position) and the theft light will blink rapidly like 5 times in one second maybe.
TripleBlk said:
I was told by a Ford tech that cleaning an IAC is only a bandage. You should not clean them, only replace them. I hate to have to buy an IAC when I'm not sure that it is my problem. I think today I'll have to just get it towed somewhere and tell them to fix the damn thing.
The theft light should flash when the ignition is switched on and stay flashing if it is the transponder ring or your antitheft sys do you have an after market alarm?
you say you got the car about 2K miles ago i would call who ever you bought
the car from and ask them if they had any problems or anything done to the car
do you have a chip in your car? and did you check all your fuses?
you say you got the car about 2K miles ago i would call who ever you bought
the car from and ask them if they had any problems or anything done to the car
do you have a chip in your car? and did you check all your fuses?
JB9789 said:
No after market alarm. The car was completely stock when I got it. No chip, checked all fuses before anything else.
The stang is in the shop right now. I'll let everybody know what the problem was.
Thanks
figured it out,....chech teh freakin key- i lost em, and the computer wasnt reading the signal so it cut the fuel pump- he told me./....so work that into your minbds for next time- im drunk, but that was defuinitely the prbolem ,es sittin here- ok, im dont ...but still rebling...thi is awesome- che ck the key!!dont deffault to for iacS ******es111 go 64-66 wioth EFI *****Z!!!....800 lbs lighter, more power, werrrrd.....hard core rollin on all your asses! wut now suckaz
my car is the same right this second. most of you readers have neglected to listen to kdubs no check engine light problems. if you check your codes even though you never had a light on you should get code 11 or pass test ok. he has no light as well as i . i have gone through and replaced the fuel relay,ignition module and getting ready to replace the computer because it will crank no start and no fuel pump noises or spark whatso ever. fp of s!
Make sure your gas cap is on tight. If it doesn't seal properly, the fuel pump can't pressurize the the fuel tank and that will make the engine run bad and stall. I know from experience after paying $60 to have my stang towed to the shop and $40 to replace the stupid fuel cap. Before that it wouldn't make it to the end of the block without stalling, and after replacing the cap it runs like new.
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