Need help! Stang will start, but dies...ROUND 2

SLiM JiM 156 · Feb 12, 2004

how old are your o2's?

COramprat · Feb 12, 2004

KDub said:
I tried it with no luck. The check engine light is not on and hasn't been.
All I should have to do to retrieve those codes is hook up and hit the link with my scanner, but I get nothing...

Yea the only time you will get codes is if the CHECK ENGINE light is on. I still think it is a vacuum leak too but it is hard to trace that crap sometimes. My experience with the IAC and the loose hose was the car would run as long as I had my foot on the gas and kept it revved. I was even able to drive but had to keep restarting it at stops. It would finally go away after a few minutes and run fine. Well not with the loose hose...I had to reconnect that to fix it. Try picking up a Haynes manuel and see if there are some ideas there. About 15 bucks from Autozone or similar. I did a rear bearing change with mine and it described the process pretty well.

KDub · Feb 12, 2004

Zorro said:
Does it still die? If not is seems as it may be an intermiitent concern. I am here in Bellflower, California I don't know how away we are but I am a ford tech. I'd be happy to help you out if you are in the area if not well get those codes read.

Still dies, every time it's exactly the same. I am in Concord, Bay Area.

KDub · Feb 12, 2004

SLiM JiM 156 said:
how old are your o2's?

I assume they are stock. I got the car about 2k miles ago. There are 53k on it now.

KDub · Feb 12, 2004

coramprat said:
Yea the only time you will get codes is if the CHECK ENGINE light is on. I still think it is a vacuum leak too but it is hard to trace that crap sometimes. My experience with the IAC and the loose hose was the car would run as long as I had my foot on the gas and kept it revved. I was even able to drive but had to keep restarting it at stops. It would finally go away after a few minutes and run fine. Well not with the loose hose...I had to reconnect that to fix it. Try picking up a Haynes manuel and see if there are some ideas there. About 15 bucks from Autozone or similar. I did a rear bearing change with mine and it described the process pretty well.

Well, the people at Kragen told me that it would still retrieve codes even if the light isn't on, otherwise I wouldn't have bought it. Good to know now. My car WILL NOT run when floored, half throttle, whatever. I bought a Haynes a while back and I have been using it to try to handle this. I am about at the end of my rope here. I have been trying to go at the sensors with my multimeter today, but everything seems to be fine.

At this point I think KconoverK might be on the right track. Has anybody else had a problem similar to his? I'd like to open up the steering column tomorrow to see if thats the prob. What do I look for?

I really appreciate everybody's help.
Thanks
Kevin

RedStanger00 · Feb 12, 2004

Not sure what year they started putting the PATS system into the stangs. I think 96 might have been the first year.

The way you tell if the system is cutting off the fuel pump and the anti-theft system is kicking in is when you go to start the car and it dies IMMEDIATELY you let of the key (let it return to the run position) and the theft light will blink rapidly like 5 times in one second maybe.

TripleBlk · Feb 12, 2004

You are not going to see a code for a bad IAC . You tried two used IACs. They last MAYBE 50k miles. Time you tried a new IAC, sorry. Cleaning won't work 100% of the time , either. Don't ask me how I know !!

KDub · Feb 12, 2004

TripleBlk said:
You are not going to see a code for a bad IAC . You tried two used IACs. They last MAYBE 50k miles. Time you tried a new IAC, sorry. Cleaning won't work 100% of the time , either. Don't ask me how I know !!

I was told by a Ford tech that cleaning an IAC is only a bandage. You should not clean them, only replace them. I hate to have to buy an IAC when I'm not sure that it is my problem. I think today I'll have to just get it towed somewhere and tell them to fix the damn thing.

TripleBlk · Feb 12, 2004

Yeah, I know it's frustrating , especially when driving a stick on an incline. I bought mynew IAC at the dealer, I have heard they are cheaper at NAPA. please followup with the fix !

JB9789 · Feb 12, 2004

The theft light should flash when the ignition is switched on and stay flashing if it is the transponder ring or your antitheft sys do you have an after market alarm?
you say you got the car about 2K miles ago i would call who ever you bought
the car from and ask them if they had any problems or anything done to the car
do you have a chip in your car? and did you check all your fuses?

KDub · Feb 12, 2004

JB9789 said:
The theft light should flash when the ignition is switched on and stay flashing if it is the transponder ring or your antitheft sys do you have an after market alarm?
you say you got the car about 2K miles ago i would call who ever you bought
the car from and ask them if they had any problems or anything done to the car
do you have a chip in your car? and did you check all your fuses?

No after market alarm. The car was completely stock when I got it. No chip, checked all fuses before anything else.
The stang is in the shop right now. I'll let everybody know what the problem was.

Thanks

osustangfan · Feb 12, 2004

my 97 cobra did that. i had to change out the ignition because a wire of something came loose. part of the sensor that reads the chip in the key? but it did EXACTLY what youre explaining.

osustangfan · Feb 12, 2004

it wasnt that expensive

KconoverK · Feb 12, 2004

osustangfan said:
my 97 cobra did that. i had to change out the ignition because a wire of something came loose. part of the sensor that reads the chip in the key? but it did EXACTLY what youre explaining.

I"m agreeing with you man I think that this is the problem!

iv2jm · Feb 14, 2004

figured it out,....chech teh freakin key- i lost em, and the computer wasnt reading the signal so it cut the fuel pump- he told me./....so work that into your minbds for next time- im drunk, but that was defuinitely the prbolem ,es sittin here- ok, im dont ...but still rebling...thi is awesome- che ck the key!!dont deffault to for iacS ******es111 go 64-66 wioth EFI *****Z!!!....800 lbs lighter, more power, werrrrd.....hard core rollin on all your asses! wut now suckaz

jgstang1 · Feb 14, 2004

my car is the same right this second. most of you readers have neglected to listen to kdubs no check engine light problems. if you check your codes even though you never had a light on you should get code 11 or pass test ok. he has no light as well as i . i have gone through and replaced the fuel relay,ignition module and getting ready to replace the computer because it will crank no start and no fuel pump noises or spark whatso ever. fp of s!

darkhorse70 · Sep 29, 2006

Make sure your gas cap is on tight. If it doesn't seal properly, the fuel pump can't pressurize the the fuel tank and that will make the engine run bad and stall. I know from experience after paying $60 to have my stang towed to the shop and $40 to replace the stupid fuel cap. Before that it wouldn't make it to the end of the block without stalling, and after replacing the cap it runs like new.

Need help! Stang will start, but dies...ROUND 2

SLiM JiM 156

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...I can take it. I think.

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