Need help troubleshooting a possible EEC startup problem

JohnW63

Member
Jan 9, 2022
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Blue,

I ordered a " Used -Like New " copy from an Amazon seller. Thanks for the recommendation. It took as lot of looking to find a diagram that was almost correct.

We actually have another wiring harness I might replace what we have with. I think it came from Ford Racing. I didn't swap it before because, " It was working fine before, don't touch it ! ".
 
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
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I'll say this again
Don't start changing things until you verily what you have, it may be a simple thing, changing things that may be ok can complicate finding the problem.
 
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Blue_67Vert

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Sep 25, 2016
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Here are the fuel rail connections:

5_0FuelLines.jpg

I don't know what size AN fittings you have but I think something like this in the proper size would fit right between the red and blue fittings.
I didn't use AN on mine so maybe verify with whoever plumbed yours.
Screen Shot 2022-01-19 at 10.27.19 PM.png
 
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manicmechanic007

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Sep 26, 2017
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Scott,
With the above pressure tap you can clean the injectors with the Ford stuff like the dealer does
You can also take a fuel sample and see just what the fuel looks like
We used to take fuel volume tests back when some fords had 2 filters
The factory pump should fill up a 16 oz coke bottle in less than 20 seconds
You should make sure yours pump does the same
 

Blue_67Vert

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Sep 25, 2016
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Blue,

That look like the ticket. As you say, I don't know what size those fittings are. Time to figure it out.
It's bugging me that I included that shrader valve in the screen shot. That one is for air. Make sure you get a valve that is for fuel. I see them listed as "Motorcraft Fuel Rail Pressure Relief Valves". If you haven't already bought parts, you even consider permanantly installing a gauge in that fitting.
 

JohnW63

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Jan 9, 2022
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Alright, I visited the car today and ran the engine codes for Engine Off and Engine running at checked the timing.

Timing: With POURT plug installed, the it's about 32 degrees BTDC. With the plug removed, it's 12 degrees BTDC

Error codes Engine off.

81: Air Diverter Solenoid Fault
82" Air Diverter Solenoid Circuit Fault
84: Vacuum Regulator Fault
85: Canister Purge

Error Codes Engine on:

12: High Idle RPM
21: Cooling Temp out of Range
33: EGR Valve not opening properly
44: Thermactor Air System Fault
94: Air Diverter Solenoid System Fault

If we have an Air Diverter, that seems to be a common issue on both tests. I don't think we have the EGR system. ( See picts below ) No Idea what the Thermactor Air system is.

Also note: Dad's memory now says the short block is in fact a 302. The last one in the western Ford warehouse at that time. It was cheaper than the newer " 5.0 " short block. The heads are Edelbrock aluminum units that he purchased after the fact. The harness came from a Ford salvage yard.

He has a plate with Allen screws between the Idle bypass and the throttle position sensor that he now recalls was installed to adjust the idle.

I took a shot of the back of the throttle position sensor where the EGR stuff should be, but isn't.
 

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manicmechanic007

Mustang Master
Sep 26, 2017
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John,
The thermactor system is just fords terminology for the air pump
I'm quite sure you have no air pump or diverter valves upstream or downstream pipes either
Marvelous you can disregard the EGR and thermactor codes (diverter valve )
The high idle code and cooling sensor code should both go away once the engine is warmed up real good
It probably needs a new purge valve (easy to check) (apply 12v and see if it clicks open)
The vacuum regulator for the diverter valve is missing too right? So disregard that code too
You should be able to get it running right with what you got
The adjustable throttle air bypass (the plate with the allen screws) is a nice thing to have sometimes
Set the timing to 10 degrees with the spout disconnected
On to the fuel pressure tests
 

manicmechanic007

Mustang Master
Sep 26, 2017
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Just dawned on me you most likely have no purge valve either Canister purge = Vapor canister gone right?
So you can disregard that code as well
 

manicmechanic007

Mustang Master
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The idle air valve is sometimes called the throttle air bypass valve (the one that has the little plate)
 

JohnW63

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Jan 9, 2022
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So, are any of the codes going to point me in the right direction? Something is not working as a choke as far as I can tell.

I can adjust the timing easy enough. My Dad acquired the section of fuel line with the Shrader valve. I wish he didn't. I like the fitting setup posted above a lot better, but now he spent the money, I should try to use it. It wasn't 5 bucks.

The car was warmed up as much as it was going to, I think. The gauge said 150. The laser pointer at the thermostat housing showed under 130f. It was running on the lift for quite some time. It wasn't a warm day. Probably 60 degrees in the shop.

I have been thinking of a question about the fuel pressure. If it runs well once warm, doesn't that indicate I have enough pressure? I admit I am not verses in fuel injection stuff, so I expect to be off base.
 

manicmechanic007

Mustang Master
Sep 26, 2017
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You will need to replace the thermostat if 130 was as hot as it would get
It needs to be 195f
If it runs good warm, I agree the fuel pressure is most likely okay
It might just be cold blooded due to a few engine modifications
Replace the rail and clean the fuel injectors thru the rail using the Motorcraft pressurized stuff
Clean the throttle plate and retest. You may have no real trouble
Many of the cars with your setup would not have fast idle like they are supposed to have
Your MAF may also be dirty and not sending a code
 

JohnW63

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Jan 9, 2022
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"Replace the rail and clean the fuel injectors thru the rail using the Motorcraft pressurized stuff"

Replace the rail? I didn't know there was stuff I could pressurize the rail with. I figured they had to come out and get cleaned.

"Clean the throttle plate and retest. You may have no real trouble"

What's the right stuff to clean those with? MAF cleaner is had to find, these days.
 

manicmechanic007

Mustang Master
Sep 26, 2017
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There are two ways to pressurize the rail and do it
One is with a little tank then air over hydraulic to get the required pressure ( OTC 7448A is one I have )
The other easier way is with the Motorcraft CM1001 pressurized can of cleaner ( that also takes an adapter tool )
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
23,104
8,443
203
polk county florida
There are two ways to pressurize the rail and do it
One is with a little tank then air over hydraulic to get the required pressure ( OTC 7448A is one I have )
The other easier way is with the Motorcraft CM1001 pressurized can of cleaner ( that also takes an adapter tool )
I think you may be confusing this member, he is not an experienced tech and you get kind a deep in your suggestions. KISS.
We don't even know what his fuel pressure is yet.
 

JohnW63

Member
Jan 9, 2022
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Southern California
I've been trying to find an adapter for the CM1001 can, but my Google-Fu hasn't found one yet. I suspect fully stocked repair shops have a kit with various adapters for various cars, so it's no big deal to grab a new can and go. I'm just looking simple one part version. If I didn't have a Shrader valve to push it in, how would you use the can? Undo a fuel line from the rail and use an adapter that fits where the line went?