Need help trying to fix my air conditioning, details and pics inside!

[BlueOvalStangGT]

Hey guys, its starting to warm up and its time for me to finally fix my air conditioning. It has never EVER really worked 100% correctly since ive owned the car. Here is the story, skip this if you want:

When I bought the car, it had a super small leak in the line that runs from the compressor to the dryer. I recharged it twice, until it would leak out and start blowing warm again.

Then, one day I was working on my car when I leaned onto the line that runs from the condensor (radiator looking thing) to the compressor. With the S-Trim, you have to bend one of the AC lines and this made it weak. I broke it one of the fittings that comes off the condensor. I fixed this by buying the line that runs from the condensor to the compressor, and a line that runs from the compressor to the dryer (bought from slow5.0/ernan). I also replaced the dryer then. Filled it again.

I cant quite remember what happened next, but it somehow leaked out again, and I filled it again...... Only to find out that the valve pictured below, leaked after hooking up the fill majigger to it. I put the cap on real quick and tight, and believe it or not it held pretty well. Now, if I take the valve cap off, it starts to leak. My a/c now blows cold only when its semi-cool out and if im moving. If the car is hot or im stuck in traffic, it does not.

Im tired of dumping money into this stupid a/c problem, but before I replace everything, I was wondering what you guys think of this. I was gonna replace the valve pictured, getting one of those cheap a/c refill kits from auto zone and seeing what happens. As far as I can remember, I fixed all the leaks and since it does blow cold sometimes im thinking its just low on refrigerant. What do you guys think I should do? The valve is like $10, and a refill kit is like what....$50? Should I spend $60 now and see if it works, or should I go ahead and spend $500 replacing everything again.

Another question, does that valve just unscrew and then I put the new one on?

 

[Methodical]

Sounds like the valve seal is bad. I'd replace it with a Ford one only. Don't use the local part store ones they don't fit. Then you need to evacuate the system to see if it holds pressure. Then recharge it. You can purchase the hoses from the local part store for cheap. You can get a Vac cheap but you need an air compressor. Search under Methodical and you will find one of my post about doing the recharge. I will chime in again just at work now and can't remember everything. But search under my name.

 

[GT_green_GT]

Does the compressor keep cycling on and off? When you say you added refrigerant did you do it urself? have you ever had a set of gauges on the high and low side? As wierd as it is those tend to leak so it is a good thing to have the caps on. To tell ya the truth the system really need to be charged and have the dye added to it. Sometimes it doesnt help a thing but it will help ya find most leaks. Your putting the correct refrigerant in too right?

 

[BlueOvalStangGT]

I still have the part numbers you gave me methodical, I plan on getting one soon.

The last time, I did add the refrigerant with a friend. He is a certified technician that works at at Rolls Royce dealership. We vac'ed it and then recharged it. It is the right refrigerant. The A/C compressor, I would have to check but im pretty sure it just turns on for a while, and then off. What exactly should I be looking for when it idles and the a/c on? Switching on/off alot or no?

On a side note, with the a/c on my car does not idle very well....

 

[BlownFiveLiter]

If your compressor is cycling on and off, you most likely have a low charge. It's possible that there could be some sort of obstruction (possible blocked orifice tube) in the system that's causing the pressure to build on the high side and cut the compressor off until it equalizes, but I'd put money on it being a low condition because of the previous leak. I believe you can just replace the valve without having to replace the whole line, but I'd have to go take a peek at mine. I'm almost positive it will unscrew from the line. I need to do this myself, too. I left my hose from my manifold set attached because it leaks so bad, I'd lose my entire charge in a matter of a minute or so. Just kept it hooked up with the valve closed.

 

[ronstang94]

first I would clean and check all of the lines for leaks, maybe put in a can with stop leak and dye. see if it will fix the problem and if it doesnt the dye will show you where its leaking. you can rent a vacuum pump from some antozones, buy an AC o-ring kit or just an assortment and a new reciever drier, buy another valve from a junk yard (cheaper), and buy a few cans of freon with all the good additives. pump out the system, take it all apart, replace ALL o-rings (there are a lot of them, multiple rings per connection), have new rubber lines installed on to the old hard lines if necesary, put it togeather, fill it up, should be good.

 

[BlueOvalStangGT]

Does the drier need to be replaced everytime the system is open? I replaced it once before probably 2 years ago when I tried to fix my A/C last time. How many o rings should I buy and what size? I bought both valves from ford ($20)

 

[BlueOvalStangGT]

Bump to the last question about the drier..still no a/c im gonna tackle this tonight

 

[BlueOvalStangGT]

How the heck are those valves supposed to come off anyway?

 

[BlueOvalStangGT]

Bump, I need to know if the dryer MUST be replaced and how to get those valves off.

 

[BlueOvalStangGT]

where is everyone?

 

[Methodical]

I personally did not change my drier and my system was opened for about 2 years while rebuilding the car and motor and I have not had a problem since putting the car back on the road in 2005.

 

[BlueOvalStangGT]

Thanks, gonna go do it now

 

[Methodical]

Just use some channel locks or vice grips or something to really grip the soft metal to screw them off.