Need help wiring power windows basically from scrath

crazypete

All my crevices are greased.
Oct 22, 2004
930
4
18
Arlington, MA
So I was a fool and during my wire removal, I assumed that the top pack of wires on the PW switch was for the locks and the bottom was for the windows so I removed all the pink wires both sides and pulled up the wires from the fusebox. Now I realize that I was in error. The pinks were the power supplies!

My chiltons book is useless and doesnt include decent wiring diagrams that include things such as the power windows. The autozone wiring pages are the same as the chiltons. Darnit

For loose wires coming off the PW switch, I have a pair of pink wires: pink/yel pink/grn and 3 blacks: blk/wht and 2 solid blacks. Where does this all go? One of the black wires goes hot if I connect the pink wire to power. wierd. I thought black was always ground.

Thanks guys.
 
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Power window and lock switches usually go to ground when in an neutral position. It is like a brake for the motor.

In addition, the ground flows through the opposite door switch as to keep occupants from shorting 12v to ground. If you work both switches at the same time (left and right doors) you either get 12v to 12v or gnd to gnd. Not 12v to gnd. Understand?
It would take me 10 years to explain the wiring with text. Sorry. If you want to bring your car to my house, I'll wire it right up for you.

J/K dont bring cars to my house!
 
I understand....

I actually traced the wires back and forth so the 3 red, yellow and solid pink going from drivers to passenger (basically everything in the lower harness) was preserved. So half the battle is already won.

Should the drivers side work with the passenger side disconnected? Your comments seem to imply 'no'

Does the pass side have it's own power lead or is it plugged into the drivers side? Knowing that would make my wiring so much easier to decipher.

I there a proper diagram posted anywheres? My googles came up with the same lame chilton's. I have confirmed location of a single pink going to the fusebox opposite that circuit breaker looking thing. I think the black/white went directly to the always hot bundle. Otherwise I am scratching my head.

Thanks dude!
 
Excellent!!

I guess that I need to ground the ground and put the hot to the hot. Looks like each switch is a standalone unit and capable of doing the job on it's own. I think I'll pop the cover off the switch and verify which of my blacks are really grounds and which are leads and then give each side it's power and ground

Those diagrams speak a million words!

Thanks a lot!

~CrazyPete
 
The post-op:

I did it right the first time but overlooked a detail. The 3 crossover ds-ps wires ARE the correct wires but the pink crossover wire is the juice wire for both of the windows. Once I spliced it to key-on power, everything was a-ok. The rest of that crap is apparently the power locks.