Need help with codes...

90mustangfan

New Member
Oct 18, 2005
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So cal
Stuff done to car a couple days ago Full tune up(plugs,cap,rotor,wires, New Catalyic converters,) the car also just passed smog right after the tune up... other stuff: I had The Entire (due to black death on the a/c compressor) A/c system replaced professionally for $600....Now for the codes: Koeo: 79(A/C is on or pin 10 is shorted to power) My a/c clutch on the compressor clicks on and off like the a/c switch is on inside the car,, when the switch is turned off...easy fix ill have to take it back where I had the a/c done.... and in KOEO: CM 41, 91...the CEL also comes on when I do WOT, then when I cruise for a couple minutes and the CEL shuts off. So CEL only comes on at WOT then shuts off...and of course the codes 41,91 are in the CM. How do I fix? does it need new O2 sensors, Im not sure how old the ones on the car are..Im not sure if its related but I have a very slight miss from 1600rpm-1900rpm, then goes real smooth as the rpms climb....also Im pretty sure I dont have a vaccum leak, car Idles great, and runs great(except for the slight miss mentioned above) passes smog. On koer I get code 12 them CM 11(system pass)
 
Code 41 or 91 - O2 indicates system lean. Look for a vacuum leak or failing O2 sensor. Code 41 is a RH side
sensor, code 91 is the LH side sensor.

The computer sees a lean mixture signal coming from the O2 sensors and tries to compensate by adding more fuel. Many times the end result is an engine that runs pig rich and stinks of unburned fuel.

The following is a Quote from Charles O. Probst, Ford fuel Injection & Electronic Engine control:
"When the mixture is lean, the exhaust gas has oxygen, about the same amount as the ambient air. So the sensor will generate less than 400 Millivolts. Remember lean = less voltage.

When the mixture is rich, there's less oxygen in the exhaust than in the ambient air , so voltage is generated between the two sides of the tip. The voltage is greater than 600 millivolts. Remember rich = more voltage.

Here's a tip: the newer the sensor, the more the voltage changes, swinging from as low as 0.1 volt to as much as 0.9 volt. As an oxygen sensor ages, the voltage changes get smaller and slower - the voltage change lags behind the change in exhaust gas oxygen.

Because the oxygen sensor generates its own voltage, never apply voltage and never measure resistance of the sensor circuit. To measure voltage signals, use an analog voltmeter with a high input impedance, at least 10 megohms. Remember, a digital voltmeter will average a changing voltage." End Quote

Testing the O2 sensors
Measuring the O2 sensor voltage at the computer will give you a good idea of how well they are working. You'll have to pull the passenger side kick panel off to gain access to the computer connector. Remove the plastic wiring cover to get to the back side of the wiring. Use a safety pin or paper clip to probe the connections from the rear. The computer pins are 29 (LH O2 with a dark green/pink wire) and 43 (RH O2 with a dark blue/pink wire). Use the ground next to the computer to ground the voltmeter. The O2 sensor voltage should switch between .2-.9 volt at idle.

Note that all resistance tests must be done with power off. Measuring resistance with a circuit powered on will give false readings and possibly damage the meter. Do not attempt to measure the resistance of the O2 sensors, it may damage them.

Testing the O2 sensor wiring harness
Most of the common multimeters have a resistance scale. Be sure the O2 sensors are disconnected and measure the resistance from the O2 sensor body harness to the pins on the computer.

The O2 sensor ground (orange wire with a ring terminal on it) is in the wiring harness for the fuel injection wiring. I grounded mine to one of the intake manifold bolts

Replace the O2 sensors in pairs if replacement is indicated. If one is weak or bad, the other one probably isn't far behind.

If you get only code 41 and have changed the sensor, look for vacuum leaks. This is especially true if you are having idle problems. The small plastic tubing is very brittle after many years of the heating it receives. Replace the tubing and check the PVC and the hoses connected to it.
A secondary problem with only a code 41 is for cars with an intact smog pump and cats. If the tube on the back of the heads clogs up the driver’s side, all the air from the smog pump gets dumped into one side. This excess air upsets the O2 sensor calibration and can set a false code 41. The cure is to remove the crossover tube and thoroughly clean the insides to that there is no carbon blocking the free flow of air to both heads.
 
I did the KOER test again and Got code 41, And to be sure I did the KOER 1 more time and only got code 41...As for KOEO: 79 and CM 41,91. For my individual problem what likley the problem, I belive after looking at the oxygen sensors they appear to be not that old, they look new like the previous owner replaced them....as for vaccum leaks Im also pretty sure and have check many times I dont think I have a vac leak..where should I begin, to fix the codes?
 
I did the KOER test again and Got code 41, And to be sure I did the KOER 1 more time and only got code 41...As for KOEO: 79 and CM 41,91. For my individual problem what likley the problem, I belive after looking at the oxygen sensors they appear to be not that old, they look new like the previous owner replaced them....as for vaccum leaks Im also pretty sure and have check many times I dont think I have a vac leak..where should I begin, to fix the codes?

Re-read my post: all you need to do to test the O2 sensors is in there.